From the Guidelines : https://news.ycombinator.com/newsguidelines.html Please don't post shallow dismissals, especially of other people's work. A good critical comment teaches us something.
That's not a shallow dismissal. I don't understand some of these choices and I want to know why they were made. I want to know why I'm wrong.
Allmost all your 'questions' are closed questions and include your assumed preference. They are not really questions. The tone is belittleing ( is that a word? )
> So traditionally you'd have to print a blank and smooth it (with loads of manual sanding and buffing), and then cast a silicone mould around it, add a mold release ($$$) and THEN (finally!) cast your actual sex toy. The process is here to print the negative and then do a thin layer of beeswax inside to smooth the layer lines from the print. I haven’t done either method but would like to try it out soon. I’ll probab…
If you're planning to make figurines you're better off with a resin printer (as opposed to filament).
> So traditionally you'd have to print a blank and smooth it (with loads of manual sanding and buffing), and then cast a silicone mould around it, add a mold release ($$$) and THEN (finally!) cast your actual sex toy. The process is here to print the negative and then do a thin layer of beeswax inside to smooth the layer lines from the print. I haven’t done either method but would like to try it out soon. I’ll probab…
> I’ll probably stick to figurines instead of sex toys though
> So traditionally you'd have to print a blank and smooth it (with loads of manual sanding and buffing), and then cast a silicone mould around it, add a mold release ($$$) and THEN (finally!) cast your actual sex toy. The process is here to print the negative and then do a thin layer of beeswax inside to smooth the layer lines from the print. I haven’t done either method but would like to try it out soon. I’ll probab…
She mentions that it loses a fair bit of surface details, so good for largish organic things, but maybe not so good for miniatures?
> So traditionally you'd have to print a blank and smooth it (with loads of manual sanding and buffing), and then cast a silicone mould around it, add a mold release ($$$) and THEN (finally!) cast your actual sex toy. The process is here to print the negative and then do a thin layer of beeswax inside to smooth the layer lines from the print. I haven’t done either method but would like to try it out soon. I’ll probab…
If you're planning to make figurines you're better off with a resin printer (as opposed to filament).
Not to mention, way cooler to watch while printing.
That's not a shallow dismissal. I don't understand some of these choices and I want to know why they were made. I want to know why I'm wrong.
Allmost all your 'questions' are closed questions and include your assumed preference. They are not really questions. The tone is belittleing ( is that a word? )
I disagree with all your assessments. I think specific, discuss-able questions like this lead to educational answers. Asking questions about something isn't disrespectful.
https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=sex&type=things&sort=re... >No results found for sex. Please try another search or upload your own design. Yeah, sure!
> So traditionally you'd have to print a blank and smooth it (with loads of manual sanding and buffing), and then cast a silicone mould around it, add a mold release ($$$) and THEN (finally!) cast your actual sex toy. The process is here to print the negative and then do a thin layer of beeswax inside to smooth the layer lines from the print. I haven’t done either method but would like to try it out soon. I’ll probab…
> I’ll probably stick to figurines instead of sex toys though That sounds painful.
The core of this technique is the use of beeswax to act as both a filler/smoothing agent and mould release. A clever hack - but I'm confused by some things: - the assertion that 3d printed materials are not body safe; PLA (the most common 3d printing material) is nontoxic and used for utensils (although agreed that the layer lines are a hygiene hazard) - the description of the "traditional" method as printing a posit…
I wouldn't fear a PLA thing first use; but cleaning it thoroughly enough to re-use is going to be a challenge without special effort applied to finishing it after printing. Beeswax temp: Thermal mass of the print is probably high enough that it sucks the heat out of the wax before melting much surface feature. in this case, smoothing bumps is beneficial.
Beeswax melts at about 65 degrees centigrade. Going higher than that discolours it and if you go very hot, when it sets it cracks. These things would seem unlikely to be an issue when using it more like paint.
The core of this technique is the use of beeswax to act as both a filler/smoothing agent and mould release. A clever hack - but I'm confused by some things: - the assertion that 3d printed materials are not body safe; PLA (the most common 3d printing material) is nontoxic and used for utensils (although agreed that the layer lines are a hygiene hazard) - the description of the "traditional" method as printing a posit…
> […] presumably because silicone bonds to itself […]
Silicone absolutely loves silicone. If you pour silicone into a silicone mould you end up with one piece of silicone — which now includes the mould. So a barrier is absolutely essential.