Earlier quoted context omitted.
I don't ever use the vodka recipe any more; Kenji linked once to Stella Parks' pie crust recipe, which is a very simple water-based crust, and it's worked every single time for me. The vodka was just a neat trick, is all.
That's kind of my point though. I haven't seen sufficient evidence to confidently believe the vodka played a role in the crust. To be fair, I haven't seen sufficient evidence that no difference exists either. It just bugs me a bit that this is called "food science", when experimental design and significance testing are the core of what science is. At the same time, I don't want to be the science police and go around…
(I may be misremembering some of the debate, so don't hold me to specifics).
McGee presumably didn't do "science" to reach that conclusion (I assume he got there axiomatically, like any good HN scientist would) --- though I'd note that Kenji frequently triangle-tests recipe specifics with panels, which is more science than most food writers employ. But he used science to get there. You don't get a journal article out of that, but it's a more scientific approach than the common alternative, which is why we call it that.
(Kenji graduated from MIT, for whatever that's worth.)