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Snobbery Helped Take the Spice Out of European Cooking (2015)

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Re: Snobbery Helped Take the Spice Out of European Cooking (2015)

#51
post #9

In Italy we say: "A lot of spices are to cover the taste of bad ingredients". It means that if you use a lot of spices ( we _usually_ use only black pepper and salt ), you are going to cover the taste of the ingredients you are using, we believe that you need to use good ingredients to have flavourful recipes, if an ingredient tastes bad you shouldn't use it. Also we always search for the balance, there shouldn't be…

Quoted post unavailable.

Is this any different from saying that neo-minimalism is "better" than neo-expressionism?

Your criteria for evaluating food seems to put heavy emphasis on visuals (as you mention indian dishes look post-digested) and freshness of ingredients, but these criteria are not universal. As the article mentioned, one big difference is that Indian cuisine is deeply intertwined with ayurvedic medicine (like hot spices being good for you if you're lethargic,) and thus emphasizing the health benefits of said spices. And that's not even getting into how flavor itself is highly cultural.

With this in mind, attempting to apply any objective judgement is moot, because your success criteria are entirely different.

Re: Snobbery Helped Take the Spice Out of European Cooking (2015)

#52

Earlier quoted context omitted.

You are so wrong I do not even know where to start. But because I was the most offended about the spanish comments I will start there. > The former only recently being in vogue because of the work Ferran Adria. That is not true, Spain has many regions with formidable chefs. But for example the Basque country is one of the areas of the world with most Michelin Stars per square mile, comparable to Tokyo, New York etc.…

> That is not true, Spain has many regions with formidable chefs. But for example the Basque country is one of the areas of the world with most Michelin Stars per square mile, comparable to Tokyo, New York etc. Basque cuisine is almost exclusively based on simple ingredients done well. I never said nothing else existed before him, I just said Spanish cuisine became in vogue because of Ferran. That's undeiable, he put…

> I just said Spanish cuisine became in vogue because of Ferran.

Maybe 20 years ago. "In vogue" in cooking changes every 3 years. See the rise of Peruvian cooking, Korean cuisine, or the incremental choice of vegan options on high end restaurants in the past 10 years.

> (before the internet no less)

Yeah in 1990-2005 the food culture of much parts of the world was under developed. That does not mean that it was the tradition of the country. You seem to conflate public knowledge with what a country is doing, and reputation and reality do not always match.

By the way the restaurant is called (was called) El Bulli, no idea why you called it Bulgi.

> Bombarding you with immeasurable flavour is a very Kansai (specifically Osaka)

I thought you said that it was not part of Japanese cuisine? You also disparaged sauces as elements used to hide flavour, when Japan is huge on sauces.

It is almost as if your "mantras" do not hold, even for the traditions you seem to cherish.

> There is something off-putting about what amounts to a client telling a cook about how something should be made, and then calling them supremely uneducated, don't you think?

Yes there is, hence why I admitted my snobbishness. But Me being a dickhead does not stop any of my points for being true.

You claimed the following things.

- Sauces are hindrance to dish that respects the quality of the products.

- You prefer Italian and Japanese traditions of cooking due to their minimalist approach and respect of seasonal offerings.

- You consider spiced foods detrimental to sophisticated palettes and the abuse of enhancers of flavours as an insult to delicate, respectful food items.

My reply was, as someone who also prefers simple, great ingredient dishes, that none of what you said holds up.

+ Sauces can be as much a staple of the dish as just something to hide the flavour.

Eg. You can hide shit cow cuts with a strong pepper sauce which French cuisine (and British) excels at. But you can also have a delicate creamy peppercorn sauce that highlights all the earthy undertones of a good grass fed Ox steak.

You can use curry and curcumin to hide terrible chicken breasts or hard lamb. But it can also be a rich sauce that bring an orchestra of flavour (not unlike good teriyaki can be).

+ Japanese/Italian traditions antiquated over sauce based French/ sauced and spiced Indian.

Despite the fact that Italian has traditions that use heavy handed spices, in a way Mexicans would heavily approve of. There is also the very glaring omission of how much of traditional Italian food is straight up hiding bad ingredients. Lasagna uses cheese and bechamel to hide many times little or bad quality mince meat, it was a way to feed a large family with very little quality meat. And so are many traditional Italian dishes. Of course a refined carbonara is incredible, but back in the day, some hard cheese a random egg you had lying around and a little pepper was not delicate or considered one of the best emulsified sauces. It was a "oh god how do I feed my family with 3 random things I have lying around". The home aspect of Italian cuisine is incredibly relevant to the conversation because the use of seasonal vegetables comes using whatever was at hand, is an incredibly humble origin that makes it so much more worthy of the international appraise it has now.

Now in terms of Japanese Cuisine. Yeah they do have tons of minimalist, respectful products. But outside of the fact you admitted they have tons of flavorful dishes (you put them aside as street food but at least admitted their existence). I do not think you really have looked closely at some of the product origin. Japan has eel all year round by buying it at absurd prices from European markets, their fishing industry is dodgy (to not call it criminal), none of this is in any way in line with your idea of "local sourced, respectful product". There is nothing respectful about cutting red tuna properly and putting it on sushi if you're driving the animal to extinction.

+ Spices, in general, are great. Which is why a lot of the original salaries where paid in spice. I assume you are not against all spices, so there is a line you draw. Pepper and salt are ok, but cinnamon and curcumin are too overpowering. It just seems like being under exposed to some spices and finding them strong. In europe cinammon is mostly used in desserts so some dishes that use it in India can seem a bit off putting at first, but the truth is, that it has a great pairing with many dishes. Being unused to something and calling it bad are two very different things.

Considering the things you prefer, Peruvian cuisine will be down your ally. Of all the South American cuisines its the most delicate. Maybe that is a more gentle introduction into their flavour profiles. Same way lebanese is a good introduction to Middle eastern. Once you "get" those, the more extreme versions, like Afghan food, or Oaxaca mexican flavours.

Not sure if there is a good introduction to Indian food, as their flavour profiles are all very stark. But the British versions are all tailored for european tastes, so maybe that is a good stepping stone instead of curry snacks.

To answer some of your questions.

> do you study harvest dates for certain vegetable and fruit cultivars or trialed slaughter periods/season of livestock?

Did not have to, grew up buying in a market, so only seasonal stuff was available. You kinda get a knack for when things will be coming around. Now that I live near a supermarket I am sad seeing certain veggies all year round.

> I'd ask what have you done in this Industry to speak with such an arrogant tone?

Nothing at all, but I have no issue with personal preferences. But putting down thousands of chefs work as inferior is not an opinion, its just factually wrong.

> Nabemono. And yes, that is true but have you ever made one?

I was thinking more in line of Okonomiyaki and its thousands of variations, not really a respectful dish, more of a "lets see what we have around". (Also I meant to say hotchpotch and the autocorrector put hot pot, just saw why you mentioned nabemono).

Re: Snobbery Helped Take the Spice Out of European Cooking (2015)

#54
post #50

Earlier quoted context omitted.

> An Italian friend was aghast that I would suggest putting Onion and Garlic in the same meal. It was strictly either/or for him. That's a new one for me. No mixing of the two? Surely the very basis of a good tomato sauce is sweated onions and garlic? Ditto for risotto..?

Not knowing where you are from, I'd take a guess at American as there is a sharp divide in garlic use between Italian and Italian-American cusine. Italian food typically has a lot less garlic in it and if you had it in any of the classic dishes like ragù alla bolognese or risotto alla milanese it would be surprising. Dishes like spaghetti alla puttanesca or aglio e olio are classic examples where it is used. Marinara…

In my region (Piemonte) we certainly do. One of the most distinctive dishes is bagna cauda, which is a dip sauce made mainly of anchovies and tons of garlic. It's usually recommended that you eat it before a day where you don't have to go out and interact with other people because you'll smell really badly of garlic :)

Re: Snobbery Helped Take the Spice Out of European Cooking (2015)

#55
post #4

> Serving richly spiced stews was no longer a status symbol for Europe's wealthiest families — even the middle classes could afford to spice up their grub. "So the elite recoiled from the increasing popularity of spices," Ray says. "They moved on to an aesthetic theory of taste. Rather than infusing food with spice, they said things should taste like themselves. Meat should taste like meat, and anything you add only…

I wonder if you can find similar cycles in, e.g., home furnishings? The elite get their fancy furs and rugs from $foreign for $$$, eventually the trade improves, prices drop, the poors start furnishing with fancy furs and rugs, the elite move towards shiny minimalism, rinse and repeat. (cf just about anything technology-wise, I suppose)

Yes, you can absolutely see that same cycle everywhere, especially with anything fashion-related. And there are several layers, where every social class tries to imitate the one above them and distinguish themselves from the one below.

Re: Snobbery Helped Take the Spice Out of European Cooking (2015)

#56
post #9

In Italy we say: "A lot of spices are to cover the taste of bad ingredients". It means that if you use a lot of spices ( we _usually_ use only black pepper and salt ), you are going to cover the taste of the ingredients you are using, we believe that you need to use good ingredients to have flavourful recipes, if an ingredient tastes bad you shouldn't use it. Also we always search for the balance, there shouldn't be…

Quoted post unavailable.

You had a work colleague who, we can assume with the same background as yours, delved into Indian cuisine through his partner and enjoyed discovering new flavors - and all you remember is how annoying he was.

I can’t fathom how a professional cook/chef would not be curious enough to try and understand his excitement. Unless you worry more about being a fac-simile of a French chef stereotype than actually care about food, it’s history and the wonderful experiences it can create.

Re: Snobbery Helped Take the Spice Out of European Cooking (2015)

#57
post #50

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Not knowing where you are from, I'd take a guess at American as there is a sharp divide in garlic use between Italian and Italian-American cusine. Italian food typically has a lot less garlic in it and if you had it in any of the classic dishes like ragù alla bolognese or risotto alla milanese it would be surprising. Dishes like spaghetti alla puttanesca or aglio e olio are classic examples where it is used. Marinara…

In my region (Piemonte) we certainly do. One of the most distinctive dishes is bagna cauda , which is a dip sauce made mainly of anchovies and tons of garlic. It's usually recommended that you eat it before a day where you don't have to go out and interact with other people because you'll smell really badly of garlic :)

There has to be some sub-clause of Cunningham's law referring to the perilous activity about generalising Italian cuisine :)

Does Piemonte cusine also include garlic in common sauces? Is it cooked into a soffrito or included as part of a battuto?

I've still not got around to visiting Piemonte, but this talk is pushing it up my list.

Re: Snobbery Helped Take the Spice Out of European Cooking (2015)

#58

Earlier quoted context omitted.

You are so wrong I do not even know where to start. But because I was the most offended about the spanish comments I will start there. > The former only recently being in vogue because of the work Ferran Adria. That is not true, Spain has many regions with formidable chefs. But for example the Basque country is one of the areas of the world with most Michelin Stars per square mile, comparable to Tokyo, New York etc.…

> That is not true, Spain has many regions with formidable chefs. But for example the Basque country is one of the areas of the world with most Michelin Stars per square mile, comparable to Tokyo, New York etc. Basque cuisine is almost exclusively based on simple ingredients done well. I never said nothing else existed before him, I just said Spanish cuisine became in vogue because of Ferran. That's undeiable, he put…

> Moreover, I'd ask what have you done in this Industry to speak with such an arrogant tone

Oh the self-awareness. You really believe whatever achievements you have give you the right to be arrogant, don’t you? They don’t. Clearly, as you have proven, experienced people can have terribly skewed opinions and most people realize that.

Re: Snobbery Helped Take the Spice Out of European Cooking (2015)

#59
post #9

In Italy we say: "A lot of spices are to cover the taste of bad ingredients". It means that if you use a lot of spices ( we _usually_ use only black pepper and salt ), you are going to cover the taste of the ingredients you are using, we believe that you need to use good ingredients to have flavourful recipes, if an ingredient tastes bad you shouldn't use it. Also we always search for the balance, there shouldn't be…

Quoted post unavailable.

Such a weird take. When the likeness of Bourdain and Ramsay are criticized for appropriation, you come up with a completely opposite reality - that some food enthusiasts are simply politically woke. I've lived in both deeply homogenous rural farmlands of the Midwestern US and major liberal centers in Europe for long periods of time, the former has a far larger affinity towards spicy food - even moreso towards foreign options like Chinese, Thai, Mexican. I can absolutely guarantee it has nothing to do with wokeness/inclusiveness and simply the fact that it tastes good. I can still enjoy a wide variety of cuisines and still appreciate their flavors, whether or not it's spice heavy - my palette is not ruined. You're very much a snob.

Re: Snobbery Helped Take the Spice Out of European Cooking (2015)

#60
post #9

In Italy we say: "A lot of spices are to cover the taste of bad ingredients". It means that if you use a lot of spices ( we _usually_ use only black pepper and salt ), you are going to cover the taste of the ingredients you are using, we believe that you need to use good ingredients to have flavourful recipes, if an ingredient tastes bad you shouldn't use it. Also we always search for the balance, there shouldn't be…

Quoted post unavailable.

You're being downvoted for having an extremely bad take on why people like food.

Regarding kimchi: I had never eaten it until I was ~22. Now I love it, can't get enough of it. Go through jars of it pretty fast, and I miss numerous dishes from Korea. The growth in popularity is a simple explanation: Korea in general has exploded in popularity due to kpop & korean dramas. So it's reasonable that it has placed korean food on more peoples' radars. It's reasonable to say that not everyone likes kimchi, as it's pretty pungent and the typical variety is a bit spicy, but I love that smell.

Also you are completely wrong about Korean cuisine. I have no idea how you could say it's "one dimensional", unless you were predisposed to not like it in the first place. Korean food is diverse and in general, very good.

My brother worked at a popular Thai place, so he picked up some good recipes. As an American, we've both grown up exposed to many X-American food styles. The idea of us liking i.e. indian food because of politics is absurd to the point of being comical.

It's so condescending and arrogant to assume that -liking food- must have to do with one's political viewpoints. Just because you don't find something appealing doesn't mean nobody else does. I believe that you are projecting something and you don't realize it.

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