> I polished the filthy pins that connect the game cartridge to the mainboard Does this work? I thought you might have a chance of success with bending the pins, but most of the time, replacement is the only viable option. I did always wonder if you could electroplated the pins again in the right solution and voltage.
A tale from the trenches fixing an NES
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Re: A tale from the trenches fixing an NES
#12Nicely done. I restore and 'upgrade' NES consoles as a hobby. Most of these steps feature good restoration techniques. However, for anyone here looking to do the same, please skip the polyurethane step. While it may impede corrosion, that step makes the system much harder to repair/modify in the future.
Is there — as Julian Baumgartner would say — an “archival-grade reversible isolation-layer varnish” that could be applied in place of poly sealant? Silicone, maybe?
If you want silicone you can find it. Here's one example: https://uk.farnell.com/mg-chemicals/422b-340g/chemical-coati...
Re: A tale from the trenches fixing an NES
#13Nicely done. I restore and 'upgrade' NES consoles as a hobby. Most of these steps feature good restoration techniques. However, for anyone here looking to do the same, please skip the polyurethane step. While it may impede corrosion, that step makes the system much harder to repair/modify in the future.
Is there — as Julian Baumgartner would say — an “archival-grade reversible isolation-layer varnish” that could be applied in place of poly sealant? Silicone, maybe?
I haven't had any experience with lacquer because traditional lacquers almost have to be sprayed, which I am not equipped to do. I have plenty of experience with shellac because you can brush it and get a pretty decent finish off the brush, or French polish for a more refined finish. French polishing takes advantage of the aforementioned properties of shellac: besides laying another thin layer down, you're also redisolving the existing layers and smoothing them as you go.
Traditional varnishes cure by polymerization, and generally cannot be removed with mineral spirits. That isn't to say you won't ruin the finish trying, but you'll need a different solvent if you want it gone cleanly.
[0] lacquer has become an almost meaningless term. There are products that might or might not technically be lacquer that are called lacquer or water borne lacquer or some other phrase that includes the word. I'm referring to the stuff that uses lacquer thinner for the solvent. You'll know it if you smell it: it smells like it's giving you cancer right now, not in 30 years.
Re: A tale from the trenches fixing an NES
#14Is the "an" in the title proper because NES, pronounced, sounds like /ɛn/, even though it's actually a consonant?
Re: A tale from the trenches fixing an NES
#15Serious grammar question... Is the "an" in the title proper because NES, pronounced, sounds like /ɛn/, even though it's actually a consonant?
Re: A tale from the trenches fixing an NES
#16Earlier quoted context omitted.
Is there — as Julian Baumgartner would say — an “archival-grade reversible isolation-layer varnish” that could be applied in place of poly sealant? Silicone, maybe?
Would shellac work or traditional lacquer[0] work? They both cure by drying, not polymerizing, and can be removed decades later with the original solvent: alcohol in the case of shellac, or lacquer thinner in the case of lacquer. I haven't had any experience with lacquer because traditional lacquers almost have to be sprayed, which I am not equipped to do. I have plenty of experience with shellac because you can brus…
Re: A tale from the trenches fixing an NES
#17Re: A tale from the trenches fixing an NES
#18Serious grammar question... Is the "an" in the title proper because NES, pronounced, sounds like /ɛn/, even though it's actually a consonant?
It just depends on how you say the initialism. If you say "ness" then you'd use "a". If you say "en ee ess" then you'd use "an".