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We need physical audio kill switches

rubenerd.com

291–300 of 443 posts

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#291

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I went the opposite way and bought a $240 Panasonic commercial microwave, because I also wanted it to last. It's just a little big.

I have never seen or even heard of a microwave breaking.

Consumer level microwaves in shared areas, like in workplaces or schools, tend to break real fast. I've seen some not last a year.

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#292
post #61

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Yeah. It's one thing that does not need improving. My parents bought a new microwave with all kinds of fancy digital features that nobody uses 99% of the time. In addition to being really difficult to use, it also makes a very loud BEEEP on every button press. Insanity.

Beeping appliances is one thing I can't stand. They're always too loud and rarely offer any adjustment or mute functionality. I got a new microwave recently. It beeped on every button press, 5 beeps after a cook cycle, no way to mute (yeah, I checked). Within a day of owning it I took it apart and ripped the beeper off the board. Problem solved.

Weren't you worried about damaging the microwave shielding?

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#293
post #139

Earlier quoted context omitted.

macOS disables the audio control of HDMI outputs because that is what the HDMI specification expects/defines. If you think of all the devices that output via HDMI, Windows PCs are the outlier (afaik, not sure how Linux handles it) in allowing separate volume controls beyond those on the output device. Satellite set top boxes, media streaming devices (e.g. Apple TV - I realise NVidia Shield and some Chromecast apps do…

This is what HDMI CEC[1] is for, right? The devices are supposed to coordinate on which device will output audio (TV, sound system, etc.), and they are supposed to send control signals (volume up, volume down, and mute button presses) in a channel over the HDMI connection so that whatever device is playing audio can adjust its volume. Of course this assumes all devices involved implement CEC (which is optional) and t…

Whereas if you'd bought an LG TV you'd punch the volume control and nothing would happen on the Denon. Both devices claim to support CEC. With an older Sony TV, only some CEC messages worked (I think enough for a Chromecast to be able to switch the active input).

I think they forgot the "consumer" part of "consumer electronics control".

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#294

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I went the opposite way and bought a $240 Panasonic commercial microwave, because I also wanted it to last. It's just a little big.

I have never seen or even heard of a microwave breaking.

my parents have gone through about 4 microwaves in the last 15 years. the one before that they had for about 15 it was only replaced because the dial broke off while they were moving.

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#295
post #277

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I was working as a video/audio engineer for a bit and for Bluetooth especially the latency is insane. For some devices it was around half a second. I don't think I have seen two seconds though. The main thing was that we would need to stream the audio first, wait for the latency duration, then start showing video frames. If you press pause, the audio would stop after that much time. I haven't checked if some devices…

> I don't think I have seen two seconds though. The obscenely priced Bose SoundSport (GBP 180) in-ear headphones have around 2 seconds of lag. That is when I press stop and when the music stops, it's around 2 seconds. Same for start and skip. Even worse, by default, video and audio do not sync up. If you try to watch a youtube video with these headphones connected, your sound will lag by about 1 second. Nothing can b…

That could even be an incompatibility between the Bluetooth & codec implementations in your player device and headphones. APT-X-LL was meant to be a "low latency" codec but I think there's some obscene per-device fee to implement it.

If you can be bothered, it's possible to enable a Bluetooth debugging mode on Android and see which codecs are being selected by dumping a file into Wireshark (!)

The lowest common denominator codec will be SBC, and I don't think there's any latency guarantees there.

Yeah, Bluetooth, totally simple.

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#296

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Every microwave I have ever owned have been under $30, purely because I didn't want to go digital. Analogue egg-timer knob - good enough accuracy, and instantly pliable

At least microwaves with digital controls actually have full numpads. Every digital-control oven I've ever had the misfortune of using only has increment/decrement buttons. Want to set the oven to 450F? Have fun pressing the increment button twenty times for five degree increments starting at 350F. It's an abomination.

My oven has a numpad. I punch in the temperature I want. It's great! GE Profile dual oven circa 2000.

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#297

Earlier quoted context omitted.

The upside to wireless switches are how cheap they to install and remove. I'm in a 40 year old apartment with a lot of switches that now affect nothing, because they broke and no one fixed the wires ('cause landlords are cheap). I wouldn't want to change this for a bunch of wireless switches but it's easy to imagine landlords of the future wanting nothing but glue on fixtures - routing wires costs significant money.

Are you saying the switch is broken? Those can be replaced in about 15 mins and cost very little. The wires in wall rarely break and if do that could be a very dangerous situation.

There are switches that literally don't go any fixture or outlets at all, there's not even a visible sign of a fixture being removed. I assume the fixture was removed sometime during buildings life.

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#298
post #243

Earlier quoted context omitted.

How do you figure?

Basic physics.

I'll concede that yes, technically, the disconnected wires become an antenna. The audio signal will radiate away from the section of wire between the amplifier and the switch.

But the reality is that the signal is unmodulated, and the 'antenna' is a random-length pcb trace located near the ground plane. It's a terrible radiator.

So if the question is "Is this an antenna that will radiate problematic amounts of rf when the switch is opened?" the answer is "No."

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#299

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Every microwave I have ever owned have been under $30, purely because I didn't want to go digital. Analogue egg-timer knob - good enough accuracy, and instantly pliable

At least microwaves with digital controls actually have full numpads. Every digital-control oven I've ever had the misfortune of using only has increment/decrement buttons. Want to set the oven to 450F? Have fun pressing the increment button twenty times for five degree increments starting at 350F. It's an abomination.

Every digital control oven I have ever used continued to increment or decrement as long as you held the appropriate button down. No need to press the button twenty times. Some of them even increased the rate of increase/decrease the longer you held the button down.

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#300

Nothing will ever come close to convenience of analogue volume knobs. They give both immediate action and infinite granular control. Same goes for kitchen stoves. All the modern touch controls with step-based control is the absolute nightmare in terms of UI.

Every microwave I have ever owned have been under $30, purely because I didn't want to go digital. Analogue egg-timer knob - good enough accuracy, and instantly pliable

I've never understood why microwaves have an alarm that can't be disabled. They actually make me angry every time I fail to stop it manually at <10s.
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