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Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

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Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

#81

Post by nabilhat »

linsomniac wrote: post #38

I've been working on a workshop workbench, also using 20 series aluminum extrusion. Here's a picture of 2 of the 4 pieces: https://photos.app.goo.gl/AMaBwa5pRBQfqDPQ7 Aluminum extrusion is pretty nice to work with, though in retrospect I probably wouldn't do it again for the workbench. I was able to source it from China via Alibaba, and even with $200 shipping the pricing is way less than you can get it in the US. It…

> ...even with $200 shipping the pricing is way less than you can get it in the US.

The worst part is that the US extrusion isn't overpriced. For someone who wanted to start a small business making and selling this extrusion, dies would be $xx,xxx for each shape, and getting 6061 through those dies from a local extruder would run around $3, maybe $4 a pound for the more detailed shapes. Prices presented to individuals are $4-$5 per pound.

Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

#82

Post by xcambar »

jstanley wrote: post #13
sirn wrote: post #12

Earlier quoted context omitted.

As a beginner (have been learning CAD since a week ago), I tried OpenSCAD then FreeCAD and found FreeCAD to be simple enough to get started. I followed the tutorial in FreeCAD Wiki[1], particularly the Toothbrush Head Stand[2] one (since my primary use was 3D printing) and could get comfortable with the software within a day or two. [1]: https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Tutorials [2]: https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Toothbrus…

For anyone else reading this: The key thing to know in FreeCAD is that you almost always want to use the "Part Design" workbench. Then the workflow for creating a part starts with creating a "Body". The "Body" represents a single solid. The major features of your part are created with 2-dimensional sketches (either on the base planes, or on flat surfaces of the part, or on datum planes that you can define). The sketc…

I didn't put your recommendations under test, but that sounds like solid advice. Thanks for sharing!

Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

#83

Post by dragontamer »

war1025 wrote: post #54
ahelwer wrote: post #46

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Looks like this person has a triple monitor setup, so that'd be either three DisplayPort/HDMI cables or a single DisplayPort cable if they can daisy chain them (only possible if these are all 1080p monitors). It is an appealing idea, though. I wish there were an easy thin client solution where everything from your actual computer just goes over cat6. Unfortunately cat6 can only handle about 10 Gbps, vs. a single Disp…

> Unfortunately cat6 can only handle about 10 Gbps What is the main limitation for cables regarding transmission rates? Do we just need to move to fiber? I was surprised recently looking into wifi options that apparently the new wifi 6 claims to handle 2400Mbps. I assumed a wired connection would always trounce wireless (and I guess cat6 can do 4x that), but it seems like people are moving mostly to wireless setups.…

> I was surprised recently looking into wifi options that apparently the new wifi 6 claims to handle 2400Mbps.

The entire WiFi network can handle 2400Mbps.

While a 10Gbps CAT6 cable can handle a 10Gbps connection up and down stream per wire.

In short: 10Gbps CAT6 vs WiFi6 on "apples-to-apples" terms is 20Gbps (10Gbps per direction) vs WiFi 2.4Gbps.

Note that each additional CAT6 cable you add to the network increases your aggregate bandwidth by another 20Gbps (10Gbps duplex). A 8-port 10Gbps switch can be organizing 80Gbps duplex (80Gbps to, and from, every port), or 160Gbps in WiFi terms.

Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

#84

Post by gonehome »

freeqaz wrote: post #72

Something that bothers me a lot with desks: The legs sticking out and cutting into your foot space. Especially when you have an "L" desk and the legs stick out to block the entire "inner corner" bit. I have a custom designed desk for my office that I had somebody help me fabricate. During that time I realized that, if you use a thick piece of hardwood, you can completely skip the inner legs. In my case it is 1.5" che…

This is a common Ikea hack popular for making desks.

You use two or three Alex book shelves and a large wood veneer countertop. (Karlby commonly).

If you don't want a leg in the center you can use metal angle bars screwed into the bottom of the counter top (which also double as a place to secure cables).

Lots of examples of this configuration if you search on reddit.

It looks nicer than standard desks, is often cheaper, and works better.

Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

#85

Post by frosted-flakes »

chiefalchemist wrote: post #75
frosted-flakes wrote: post #35

Earlier quoted context omitted.

An impact driver could probably handle it fine, but I can't imagine the hammering action would be good for the mechanism. Physically I would be able to use a hand crank just fine, but if it's anything like reclining the seat in my Volkswagen (a 3" knob on the seatback hinge, rather than the typical lever), I'd hate to do it more than once a day. If it's not convenient to use, I would likely just leave it in the down…

It's not a knob. The crank helps. Worst case, just extend the crank if the drill can't cut it. Ideally, once I get used to standing, I don't intend to sit, sans the weekends.

It's not the effort that would be a problem, it's the time. I like the crank seat adjustment on my VW when it comes to fine adjustability, but if I want to recline the seat back all the way it ... just ... takes ... way ... too ... long.

A longer crank handle would just make it take longer. And I don't want to stand full time. I tried that for a few weeks with a makeshift standing desk (a bunch of boxes stacked on top of my filing cabinet to the correct height) just to see if I would like it, and it was great for an hour or three, but I did not want to stand all day. Ideally, I'd be able to switch modes 2-4 times a day.

Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

#86

Post by elisvent »

dazzawazza wrote: post #24
OzzyB wrote: post #16

Is there is link for his old UK desk build? Those steel tubes look boss, great look, and might be something I could tackle myself. This new Japan project looks a lot more ambitious, good luck xD.

Looks like this: https://simplifiedbuilding.co.uk/kits/desk-tables .

If you're ok with a slightly rougher finish on the casting but the same material properties as Kee Klamp, you can get cheaper store-brand variants of many of the common connector types from Global Industrial, Grainger, and other industrial suppliers.

Also, structural pipe is usually pretty dirty from production and I've found it's worth the cost to just have a local metal fabricator take care of the cleaning.

https://www.globalindustrial.com/c/storage/fittings-framing-...

Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

#87

Post by defterGoose »

xcambar wrote: post #6

Looking forward to the follow up! I have a question: what CAD software do you use? Would you recommend it to a beginner? I'm desperate in that software space, everything seems either clunky, too complex (as a beginner) or overly expensive...

Do you like command line interfaces? If so I'd highly recommend Rhino. Any CAD suite is going to have a learning curve to it, but Rhino is as intuitive as any you'll find, while being incredibly powerful in it's features. It has a demo version (with limited save capability) so you can dip your toes in.

There's something great about having the names for things be their commands: you want a line? Just type "line".

Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

#88

Post by defterGoose »

mywittyname wrote: post #66
redm wrote: post #45

Cool project. You really put some planning into it. As others have mentioned S4S lumber in the US is not standardized in size. It can vary. If your using a softwood like Pine, it will also not be strait. This is going to cause your tight tolerances to be off. You should build this with lumber that has been fully dried, and fully straitened and taken to a lesser tolerance, something that can be plained and jointed dow…

S4S lumber is the most straight variety you can buy with the lowest variance in size.

Yeah, the SxS system typically isn't used for construction lumber, but a 2x4 is technically S4S.

Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

#89

Post by defterGoose »

jnellis wrote: post #76
driverdan wrote: post #58

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Ikea and Lumber Liquidators (in the US) both have very reasonably priced Oak and Birch butcher block. It makes for great table tops.

I believe Ikea stopped making solid wood butcher blocks years ago. They are all veneers now.

They definitely still make solid wood tabletops/countertops, but they're not comparable to "true" butcher block since they're A. Not endgrain, and B. Not as dense as hard maple.

Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

#90

Post by linsomniac »

nabilhat wrote: post #81
linsomniac wrote: post #38

I've been working on a workshop workbench, also using 20 series aluminum extrusion. Here's a picture of 2 of the 4 pieces: https://photos.app.goo.gl/AMaBwa5pRBQfqDPQ7 Aluminum extrusion is pretty nice to work with, though in retrospect I probably wouldn't do it again for the workbench. I was able to source it from China via Alibaba, and even with $200 shipping the pricing is way less than you can get it in the US. It…

> ...even with $200 shipping the pricing is way less than you can get it in the US. The worst part is that the US extrusion isn't overpriced. For someone who wanted to start a small business making and selling this extrusion, dies would be $xx,xxx for each shape, and getting 6061 through those dies from a local extruder would run around $3, maybe $4 a pound for the more detailed shapes. Prices presented to individual…

I went back and looked at the details so we could talk apples/apples. I calculated it out as $1.30 per 20 series foot, so $2.60 for a foot of 2040, landed. It was $190 in extrusion, $336 for shipping. The only available shipping was air because of the "small" quantity. They recommended that trying to ship it would likely lead to delays and possible loss because it was so small. But if you were buying a ton or more it would decrease the shipping component.

It seemed like an opportunity to get a bunch in and resell it, but that's not something I'm looking to do.

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