71–80 of 102 posts
My favorite design idea: move your computer out of the room. My PC is in the next room / closet and the room is completely silent. In my case all I needed was a small hole for an HDMI and a USB cable.
I have a custom designed desk for my office that I had somebody help me fabricate. During that time I realized that, if you use a thick piece of hardwood, you can completely skip the inner legs. In my case it is 1.5" cherry wood.
Knowing that now, I've realized there are other benefits like my monitors shaking less because the desk is so rigid. I'd definitely recommend a solid, hardwood surface to anybody looking to get a custom work desk setup!
Something that bothers me a lot with desks: The legs sticking out and cutting into your foot space. Especially when you have an "L" desk and the legs stick out to block the entire "inner corner" bit. I have a custom designed desk for my office that I had somebody help me fabricate. During that time I realized that, if you use a thick piece of hardwood, you can completely skip the inner legs. In my case it is 1.5" che…
Something that bothers me a lot with desks: The legs sticking out and cutting into your foot space. Especially when you have an "L" desk and the legs stick out to block the entire "inner corner" bit. I have a custom designed desk for my office that I had somebody help me fabricate. During that time I realized that, if you use a thick piece of hardwood, you can completely skip the inner legs. In my case it is 1.5" che…
One of the best home-brewed desks I have used was fabricated from a large, and thick solid-core hardwood-veneer door. It rested on a two-drawer file cabinet at each end and was rock-solid. I used the pre-cut hole for the doorknob to pass the cabling from the workstation to the monitors, etc. I used it for a video-editing setup.
Earlier quoted context omitted.
Con - It would have to be a drill with a lot of torque. The handle on the crank is approx 6". That's adequate for manual, but less would take significant effort. A knob would be tough (and would take too long). Of the drills I own, I'm not sure any of them could do it. But I also do not own anything super-duper top of the line. Pro - Yes, the hand crank is removable. The socket the crank sits in is maybe a 3/8" hex (…
An impact driver could probably handle it fine, but I can't imagine the hammering action would be good for the mechanism. Physically I would be able to use a hand crank just fine, but if it's anything like reclining the seat in my Volkswagen (a 3" knob on the seatback hinge, rather than the typical lever), I'd hate to do it more than once a day. If it's not convenient to use, I would likely just leave it in the down…
Ideally, once I get used to standing, I don't intend to sit, sans the weekends.
I built some really nice lab benches using the laminated “butcher block” tops. One has a 48”x72” work surface to accommodate deep test equipment and still have 24” of working depth. A 24”x72” shelf on top of that for more equipment. With the butcher block you don’t need additional framing for support. Just sturdy legs at either end. https://www.globalindustrial.com/g/work-benches/components/t...
Ikea and Lumber Liquidators (in the US) both have very reasonably priced Oak and Birch butcher block. It makes for great table tops.
Something that bothers me a lot with desks: The legs sticking out and cutting into your foot space. Especially when you have an "L" desk and the legs stick out to block the entire "inner corner" bit. I have a custom designed desk for my office that I had somebody help me fabricate. During that time I realized that, if you use a thick piece of hardwood, you can completely skip the inner legs. In my case it is 1.5" che…
One of the best home-brewed desks I have used was fabricated from a large, and thick solid-core hardwood-veneer door. It rested on a two-drawer file cabinet at each end and was rock-solid. I used the pre-cut hole for the doorknob to pass the cabling from the workstation to the monitors, etc. I used it for a video-editing setup.
Luckily yours does not appear to be concrete...
Something that bothers me a lot with desks: The legs sticking out and cutting into your foot space. Especially when you have an "L" desk and the legs stick out to block the entire "inner corner" bit. I have a custom designed desk for my office that I had somebody help me fabricate. During that time I realized that, if you use a thick piece of hardwood, you can completely skip the inner legs. In my case it is 1.5" che…
Earlier quoted context omitted.
One of the best home-brewed desks I have used was fabricated from a large, and thick solid-core hardwood-veneer door. It rested on a two-drawer file cabinet at each end and was rock-solid. I used the pre-cut hole for the doorknob to pass the cabling from the workstation to the monitors, etc. I used it for a video-editing setup.
I've got that setup right now, but I find that the door on top of two-drawer HON file cabinets is just a bit (about 1.5 inches) too high for a normal office chair, and isn't doing my wrists any favors either. What I really need is a very thin desktop that's just as solid.