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Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

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Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

#11
post #7
post #3

Glad to learn about cutlistoptimizer as I looked casually for something like that in the past. I’ll have to figure out how to feed it from Fusion360. Also interesting to learn that Japanese “2x4”s are in that ratio exactly. In the US, they’re 1/2” under nominal size (so 1.5” by 3.5”). Makes it awkward to stack pieces together at times. (2 2x2s next to each other in the US are smaller than a 2x4.)

I knew about the smaller 2x4s, but now I have a sudden irrational anger that the 2x2s are not also smaller... How 2x4s depreciate according to Twin Peaks: [0]. It appears in the US they start out at 2x4 and are trimmed down to make them look more finished. [0] https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=txPcLOtbG3s EDIT to ask if OP means 'bigger' rather than 'smaller'?

I meant smaller. A US nominal 2x2 piece of framing lumber is 1.5” x 1.5” (for the same reason a 2x4 is 1.5” x 3.5”)

If you still want to have anger, you can take solace that 2 1x2s do stack up to be (very close to) a 2x2, but 2 2x2s do not make a 2x4.

https://www.archtoolbox.com/materials-systems/wood-plastic-c...

Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

#12
post #6

Looking forward to the follow up! I have a question: what CAD software do you use? Would you recommend it to a beginner? I'm desperate in that software space, everything seems either clunky, too complex (as a beginner) or overly expensive...

As a beginner (have been learning CAD since a week ago), I tried OpenSCAD then FreeCAD and found FreeCAD to be simple enough to get started. I followed the tutorial in FreeCAD Wiki[1], particularly the Toothbrush Head Stand[2] one (since my primary use was 3D printing) and could get comfortable with the software within a day or two.

[1]: https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Tutorials

[2]: https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Toothbrush_Head_Stand

Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

#13
post #12
post #6

Looking forward to the follow up! I have a question: what CAD software do you use? Would you recommend it to a beginner? I'm desperate in that software space, everything seems either clunky, too complex (as a beginner) or overly expensive...

As a beginner (have been learning CAD since a week ago), I tried OpenSCAD then FreeCAD and found FreeCAD to be simple enough to get started. I followed the tutorial in FreeCAD Wiki[1], particularly the Toothbrush Head Stand[2] one (since my primary use was 3D printing) and could get comfortable with the software within a day or two. [1]: https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Tutorials [2]: https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Toothbrus…

For anyone else reading this:

The key thing to know in FreeCAD is that you almost always want to use the "Part Design" workbench. Then the workflow for creating a part starts with creating a "Body". The "Body" represents a single solid. The major features of your part are created with 2-dimensional sketches (either on the base planes, or on flat surfaces of the part, or on datum planes that you can define). The sketches are then "Padded" up to form a solid bit or "Pocketed" down to form holes in the solid bits (although there are other operations as well - Pad and Pocket are the most important).

Knowing that much should be enough to help you mentally plan your part, and then looking at the tutorials should be enough to learn how to use the UI. If you are reading this and are having trouble with FreeCAD please feel free to email me (address in bio) and I will try to help you.

I love FreeCAD and I wish it was the "default" hobbyist CAD instead of Fusion360.

Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

#14
I built some really nice lab benches using the laminated “butcher block” tops. One has a 48”x72” work surface to accommodate deep test equipment and still have 24” of working depth. A 24”x72” shelf on top of that for more equipment. With the butcher block you don’t need additional framing for support. Just sturdy legs at either end.

https://www.globalindustrial.com/g/work-benches/components/t...

Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

#15

I recently purchased an adjustable height workbench from Home Depot. I'm in the process of designing a subblememtal top so I can use it as an adjustable height desk (standing desk / regular desk). I opted for with drawers but that might have been a mistake. I'll know soon. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-46-in-Adjustable-Height-Wo...

These things are great. I'm using one (with a pegboard) as a baby changing table of all things. Everything you need is easily accessible with a crying child in one hand.

Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

#17

I recently purchased an adjustable height workbench from Home Depot. I'm in the process of designing a subblememtal top so I can use it as an adjustable height desk (standing desk / regular desk). I opted for with drawers but that might have been a mistake. I'll know soon. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-46-in-Adjustable-Height-Wo...

I have two without the drawers. They are wonderful. I think they will have a much longer lifespan than the electronically controlled sit/stand desks.

Yup. I have no interest in electric. Sooner or later they'll breakdown. On the other hand, this thing is sturdy and well made. It will always be work bench worthy. My only issue is that at full-height it's a bit short for my taste as a standing desk. But I knew that would be the case. That's where the supplemental top comes in.

If anyone is wondering, the hand crank is easy to turn. But if I had to I could trick it out so it's longer to add leverage and make it easier to turn.

The issue with the drawers is one of leg room. I would love to be able to use them but it might not workout that way. Give me a couple days for design. Then a buildout on the weekend.

Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

#18
post #7

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I knew about the smaller 2x4s, but now I have a sudden irrational anger that the 2x2s are not also smaller... How 2x4s depreciate according to Twin Peaks: [0]. It appears in the US they start out at 2x4 and are trimmed down to make them look more finished. [0] https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=txPcLOtbG3s EDIT to ask if OP means 'bigger' rather than 'smaller'?

I meant smaller. A US nominal 2x2 piece of framing lumber is 1.5” x 1.5” (for the same reason a 2x4 is 1.5” x 3.5”) If you still want to have anger, you can take solace that 2 1x2s do stack up to be (very close to) a 2x2, but 2 2x2s do not make a 2x4. https://www.archtoolbox.com/materials-systems/wood-plastic-c...

Actually, 2x2s are often or usually 1⅜" x 1⅜", which is rather annoying at times. I'm not sure if that has always been the case, but these days they're mostly only available in finger-joint spruce/fir/pine (presumably from offcuts of larger sizes), which might have something to do with it.

(Unlike solid 2x2s, which tend to twist and warp so much as to be completely useless, finger-joint 2x2s are super stable, and always come dead straight.)

Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

#20

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I have two without the drawers. They are wonderful. I think they will have a much longer lifespan than the electronically controlled sit/stand desks.

Yup. I have no interest in electric. Sooner or later they'll breakdown. On the other hand, this thing is sturdy and well made. It will always be work bench worthy. My only issue is that at full-height it's a bit short for my taste as a standing desk. But I knew that would be the case. That's where the supplemental top comes in. If anyone is wondering, the hand crank is easy to turn. But if I had to I could trick it o…

Could you take off the hand crank and fit a battery-powered drill in its place? A drill is almost a necessity to own for me, but is not something I use all that often, so if its storage place is chucked onto my desk, that would work just fine.
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