The DICE StarWars photogrammetry presentation is pretty good "Photogrammetry and Star Wars battlefront":
https://www.ea.com/frostbite/news/photogrammetry-and-star-wa...Same rules of thumb apply to both drone and handheld cameras. With a drone you can capture large wider areas, though, which is really cool (a city block... a small mountain... whatever).
The 3d reproduction quality is roughly to what you provide in photos-meaning if you view your model from a similar camera distance relatively as the source image it will look good - or further away.
For a high resolution scan you likely want to have a hierachical set of pictures, First a roundabout of say 32 pics.
Then similar turn around of the details that you want to model clearly like columns, stairs, and whatnot protruding and receding from the house facade.
Prefer a bright overcast day - it's way better than a direct sunlight.
Overall rule of thumb is that when you move, consequent picks should have 80% overlap
I usually notice only after taking the photos that I missed an angle and some details I wanted to see are not there. No prob. Since you took the images on overcast day just go back and take the extra few picks missing.
For full on neurotic mode, Put camera on manual, take RAW images, and keep your aperture, shutter speed and ISO constant throughout the shoot.
Even though you have a drone, you still likely want to take photos of ground details by hand (unless you have a real good camera on the drone - my 12 Mp really is noticeably worse than the 24 Mp - in this case you want all the pixels as you can as that helps with the alignment - just as long as they are NOT mushed by poor JPG compression - like my Mavic does-hence RAW:s).
There are lots of tips in archaeology blogs, I think, as well.
For reference, check out the stuff around open source packages of visualsfm, colmap and meshroom, as well as the relevant online reaources of the software you are using.
