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28-Key Mechanical Keyboard

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Re: 28-Key Mechanical Keyboard

#91

Post by jrockway »

Polylactic_acid wrote: post #69
nemo1618 wrote: post #67

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Ah, reminds of the Optimus Maximus: https://vimeo.com/4294567 I also remember owning a Samsung Alias 2, which had e-ink keys so you could use it in either vertical or horizontal orientation.

The problem with all the existing products is they seem to be crowdfunding scams or they are essentially some clear plastic domes over a large touchscreen eink panel. I'm guessing that no one is able to source the 1x1cm eink screens that would be needed for a mechanical version.

Small screens on buttons are somewhat readily available: https://www.mikroe.com/oled-switch-click

They are $100 each though.

Re: 28-Key Mechanical Keyboard

#92

Post by alpaca128 »

ta09876 wrote: post #7
anotheryou wrote: post #3

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Fewer keys often means more modifiers (if not going to such an extreme as here). That way you can make room for numpad, F-keys or odd keys like page-up or end etc..

True, but unfortunately those extra modifiers are now used up for getting the original keyboard back. If you want to do, e.g. Control-Shift-Arrow to select text, you now have to use even more modifiers. I'm currently using a Razer Anansi which is a full size keyboard with extra modifier keys under the space bar. Combined with AutoHotKey and Caps Lock, I can select text with the keyboard without moving away from home…

> If you want to do, e.g. Control-Shift-Arrow to select text, you now have to use even more modifiers.

Or you're using Vim where just hitting v is all it takes.

I definitely wouldn't use an even smaller board than 40%, though - that is basically the lower limit for me where I can still map all keys to positions I'm comfortable with. Lower than that and I'd need to start using multiple modifiers at once for some symbols.

Re: 28-Key Mechanical Keyboard

#93

Post by molteanu »

PyroL wrote: post #83

Hi all! I'm the one who designed Alpha. Not sure if I need to do anything to verify my identity, but in the meanwhile feel free to ask me anything about this project! :)

I'm not sure if you contribute directly to the development of qmk firmware also, but I must say it has been a tremendous pleasure to use. I do assume though that your project contributes to the increased visibility of the firmware and of these types of keyboards in general.

I have an Ergodox. I literally dropped a tear when I've received it and realized what a piece of junk[1] this classic keyboard that I've used over the years actually is.

So thank you and all you guys who make these things possible and put all your love into making typing fun again!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nruu84U0lF0

Re: 28-Key Mechanical Keyboard

#94

Post by mkl »

Aloha wrote: post #17
ardy42 wrote: post #2

I don't get the obsession with custom keyboard with ever fewer keys. If I designed one, if anything it would have at least a few more modifier keys that a standard keyboard.

I'd like a 200 key keyboard please, will full macro functionality and programability

You can have that. Just plug in another one, and write a script that opens the device exclusively and interprets the events so it doesn't send normal keystrokes.

Re: 28-Key Mechanical Keyboard

#95

Post by StavrosK »

TomVDB wrote: post #84
StavrosK wrote: post #53

Earlier quoted context omitted.

You probably can't get one, but ten of them would be around $50.

You're in for a very pleasant surprise once you start looking at suppliers such as PCBWay.com and JLC-PCB.com!

That's what I was quoting, 20cm isn't cheap.

Re: 28-Key Mechanical Keyboard

#96

Post by StavrosK »

sorenjan wrote: post #68
StavrosK wrote: post #44

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I just set up my tilde key to change the right half of my keyboard to a numpad when held down, so I'm not missing anything. Seems like a good tradeoff.

Cooler master has a keyboard which they call a hybrid ten key less where they combines the numpad with the arrow and home buttons. There are probably other brands with a similar layout, seems like a good compromise. I use a ten key less keyboard so I can put the mouse closer to it. https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/cdn.coolermaster.com/asse... https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/peripheral/keyboards/ma...

That's interesting, how do you pick which one you want to use?

Re: 28-Key Mechanical Keyboard

#97

Post by mkl »

SuperPaintMan wrote: post #88
clarry wrote: post #16

Earlier quoted context omitted.

jk stands for ESC

JK for :, UI or WE for escape. Escape never seemed so painful!

That would mean you can't type words like "quick" or "we", right? Or are you somehow detecting the keys simultaneously down and typing in staccato?

Re: 28-Key Mechanical Keyboard

#98

Post by clarry »

dsissitka wrote: post #55
clarry wrote: post #13

If anyone's using modifiers on alpha keys with QMK, let me know what sort of setup works for you. Right now I have ctrls under both pinky fingers (A and S since I'm using dvorac), and it kinda works but but I'm not 100% happy with it. Either I get unintended ctrl-modified presses while typing normal text, or a crtl-modified combo does not register because I do it too quick.

Have you tried IGNORE_MOD_TAP_INTERRUPT? https://beta.docs.qmk.fm/features/feature_advanced_keycodes#... Basically, it makes it so that if you want to use A + L for Ctl + L you have to: Press A Press L Release L Release A Anything else will send As and Ls. I ran Alt under my pinkies, Ctl under my ring fingers, Shift under my middle fingers, and Win under my index fingers for a long time. It worked well most of the ti…

Yep, I've played with these options. MOD_TAP_INTERRUPT is enabled (and arguably should be the default, because the defaults don't make sense). It helps but doesn't fix my issue.

Re: 28-Key Mechanical Keyboard

#100

Post by PyroL »

GordonS wrote: post #32

> With 10mm standoffs this is a snug fit, and it is impossible with the standoffs at full length. Reflow your solder if it climbed up the wire I've never soldered anything before, and I have no idea what this means - does anyone know of a good beginners guide to this kind of soldering?

The Pro Micro is a daughterboard for an Atmel MCU, it comes with standard pitch headers that are quite long, so you need to clip them once you solder it in. And if the solder gobs up, I recommend reflowing it (melting it down) so that you can clip the wires closer
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