Earlier quoted context omitted.
>gmail.com -> gmail.com (HTML version) gmail used to have an option to set HTML as default, but it seems like it's gone. Only way to get HTML is to click on a link that's available during loading, nothing in the settings to make it permanent.
After you've clicked on it, there's a bar at the top with an option to "Set basic HTML as default view"
It's gone. That's why I'm posting about it.