Earlier quoted context omitted.
> everyone is heading to a funeral. Like they got tired of carrying their soul [...]
I did manage to move the not so nice thoughts to the end of the train. Now if I could just learn to stop writing/talking/thinking(?) before we get there the world would be a happier place.
How to assess the quality of garments (2014)
81–90 of 292 posts
Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)
#82Earlier quoted context omitted.
> everyone is heading to a funeral. Like they got tired of carrying their soul [...]
I did manage to move the not so nice thoughts to the end of the train. Now if I could just learn to stop writing/talking/thinking(?) before we get there the world would be a happier place.
FWIW here in SF you're on the money: everyone used to dress in motley and calico but these days it's all greys and blacks. I was at the farmer's market behind Stonestown the other day and everyone was in grey and black.
The cars too. My mom has this habit of calling out the colors of cars and she's been pointing it out for a few years now. Cars used to be colorful and now they're drab.
Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)
#83Disclosure: I'm coming from a blue collar background as a master diesel mechanic Quality is build + aesthetic for me. Some brands i wear include Texas jeans, Chippewa boots, and all american clothing company. The quality from domestic apparel is in my experience massively superior to foreign brands. Carhartt jackets for winter are incredibly warm and gave great value, but their aesthetic isn't always popular. They la…
>but their aesthetic isn't always popular. My Carhartt clothing is some of the best made and longest wearing I own. You're going to laugh but Carhartt is trying to go upmarket and establish themselves as a fashion brand in Europe! Imagine my surprise to trip across a Carhartt store with a wall of gimme caps / trucker hats on display in Frankfurt, Germany! Hopefully they expand their profitability by getting their nam…
Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)
#84I hate the complete lack of transparency in garments. We need to know all the details, including the weave? For someone that sweats a lot in hot & humid climates, why does one white cotton shirt show the sweat, and another doesn't? Why do I feel cooler with a thicker cotton shirt than a thinner one?
What's even more frustrating is that its impossible to find even a brand that uses good quality fabrics all the time. Even expensive outdoor gear can be hit and miss.
Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)
#85Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)
#86Earlier quoted context omitted.
>but their aesthetic isn't always popular. My Carhartt clothing is some of the best made and longest wearing I own. You're going to laugh but Carhartt is trying to go upmarket and establish themselves as a fashion brand in Europe! Imagine my surprise to trip across a Carhartt store with a wall of gimme caps / trucker hats on display in Frankfurt, Germany! Hopefully they expand their profitability by getting their nam…
Carhartt WIP has been an European streetwear brand for years now. I wrote an introduction four years ago to this brand in /r/streetwear. https://www.reddit.com/r/streetwear/comments/2d0gi4/brand_in... .
https://www.carhartt.com/products/Extremes-Coat-Arctic-Quilt...
Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)
#87Earlier quoted context omitted.
YKK doesn't mean quite as it did. More an indicator of probably adequate than quality these days.
YKK signals from the designer to everyone who sees the garment: "I can't afford for this garment to fail because of the zipper". That is, they are selling into a crowd that attends to reputation signals. That is, in and of itself, a good signal. Take it as one of many. Submariney sort of story, but still useful: https://slate.com/business/2012/04/ykk-zippers-why-so-many-d...
Besides, YKK isn't the only high-end zipper maker, Raccagni, RiRi and Lampo all make excellent zippers too.
Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)
#88Earlier quoted context omitted.
What's even more frustrating is that its impossible to find even a brand that uses good quality fabrics all the time. Even expensive outdoor gear can be hit and miss.
Hope is not completely lost. Some crazy Japanese companies produce stuff with unbelievably good fabrics all the time. E.g. The Real McCoy's, Buzz Rickson, Studio D'Artisan and a few others. For cotton, many of their models are loopwheeled which is a fantastic low tension fabric that ages really well. All they are doing is to copy American techniques from the golden age of workwear and sportswear. In fact, they try to…
I'm expecting a reply on the line of "quality comes at a cost" but I've got shirts over a decade old that have no visible signs of wear and cost a tenth of what these cost.
Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)
#89I hate the complete lack of transparency in garments. We need to know all the details, including the weave? For someone that sweats a lot in hot & humid climates, why does one white cotton shirt show the sweat, and another doesn't? Why do I feel cooler with a thicker cotton shirt than a thinner one?
You don't. In fact I'd argue that having access to the details makes you more likely to both choose the wrong garment and rationalize that wrong choice.
> For someone that sweats a lot in hot & humid climates, why does one white cotton shirt show the sweat, and another doesn't?
Branch one of this answer includes all kinds of details about thread count, thread length, thread quality, and all kinds of other details for you to get lost in.
Branch two: don't wear cotton in hot & humid climates.
> Why do I feel cooler with a thicker cotton shirt than a thinner one?
Branch one includes all kinds of wonderful details about the way in which cotton wicks moisture but does a poor job of evaporating that same moisture. (Your thin cotton shirt sucks up your perspiration to arrive at the "moisture traffic jam" much sooner than your thicker one.)
Branch two: don't wear cotton in hot & humid climates. Synthetic, bamboo, and even light merino tee shirts will all perform so much better that the difference between thin and thick cotton will become thermal noise by comparison (pun!).
Seriously, don't learn the details. I can't tell you how many times I've had pointless conversations about the differences between various proprietary waterproof breathable membranes to people who are using the rain jacket exclusively in the Southeastern U.S. (Hint: none of them will do a decent job of being breathable there. So just pick one, unzip the vents under the arms and get on with your day.)
Edit: clarification
Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)
#90Earlier quoted context omitted.
Another Carhartt fan! I’ve got a Carhartt bunnyhug that I wear all year round. They somehow made it warm enough to be a great add-on under a lighter winter coat, and cool enough to be ok up to about +15C. It’s black and the dye faded quickly, but it has otherwise held up way better than any bunnyhug I’ve ever owned. Plus the small bit of cognitive dissonance when people see the the sweater and then realize I’m workin…
Is bunnyhug a common term?
Although Wikipedia confidently tells me its a dance.