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How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

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Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#71

Post by jfengel »

justinator wrote: post #14
sixo wrote: post #4

In case anyone isn't already familiar with indoor bouldering, here's a great competition video: https://youtu.be/uHlV_nLLXLc?t=49 Cannot recommend bouldering enough. Problem-solving minds tend to love it.

I'd recommend anyone curious about bouldering get into simply top rope climbing first. Bouldering is HARD which isn't so much the real problem, but it can also be frustrating. Some problem solving strategies like throwing yourself into the problem (metaphorically)can result in nasty injuries and a short bouldering career. Get some easy climbing mileage!

When I take friends climbing for the first time, I start them on top-roping. That way they get used to how climbing works, without the fear of falling or having to learn how to climb down. (Down-climbing, even with extra handles, can be difficult when you've used up all of your energy getting to the top.) And they get to enjoy coming back down as a sort of victory lap.

After that, we go bouldering. There are plenty of intro and V1 problems they can do even on a first try, now that they've got a general introduction to the concepts. And I get to show off a few mid-grade problems to aspire to. (I'm only a V3-V4 climber myself.)

I prefer to boulder myself, because I can do it without any coordination. But you need somebody there to help you on your first day, and top-roping has a lot of advantages for new climbers.

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#72

Post by parliament32 »

sixo wrote: post #4

In case anyone isn't already familiar with indoor bouldering, here's a great competition video: https://youtu.be/uHlV_nLLXLc?t=49 Cannot recommend bouldering enough. Problem-solving minds tend to love it.

The best summary of bouldering (and sport routes, and trad to an extent) is that it's like solving physical puzzles with your body. If you're relatively fit and have a problem-solving mindset, I'd strongly recommend dropping in to your local climbing gym for an intro class.

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#73

Post by akvadrako »

justinator wrote: post #68
akvadrako wrote: post #45

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I think it's just your gym. I don't know about your grading system but with 2 being walkable, my bouldering gym has about a dozen 3s, a dozen 4s and a couple dozen 5s. Routes are replaced monthly or so.

Wow! That's almost a bit of watering down of the activity! But again, I'm in a climbing epicenter (Boulder), so I can go outside and find V1's that are nigh impossible for me to do. Problems that have been put up by people like Pat Ament, John Gill - there's still boulder problems put up 40+ years ago that still haven't had a second ascent. I guess maybe my sentiment is also almost: bouldering should be hard. It's a…

I don't understand - are you surprised there are some easy routes? 3s are mostly for first timers and warming up. I'm not saying there aren't also difficult ones.

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#74

Post by GiuseppaAcciaio »

ArrayList wrote: post #66
GiuseppaAcciaio wrote: post #64

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Bouldering is the ultimate exercise form for me: it's physically taxing, and I don't even care because my brain is enjoying the challenge too much! I can't commit to running, cycling or swimming because 30s in, I start to think about all the stuff I could be doing instead ; when I'm bouldering, there's nothing else in my mind except for the problem :)

That's a shame, because cycling is absolutely incredible. Running or swimming? Eh, screw those.

I'd definitely enjoy cycling more if I didn't live in central London, which makes it more of a "death wish experience with lungfuls of toxic shit" than I'd like :)

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#75

Post by justinator »

akvadrako wrote: post #73
justinator wrote: post #68

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Wow! That's almost a bit of watering down of the activity! But again, I'm in a climbing epicenter (Boulder), so I can go outside and find V1's that are nigh impossible for me to do. Problems that have been put up by people like Pat Ament, John Gill - there's still boulder problems put up 40+ years ago that still haven't had a second ascent. I guess maybe my sentiment is also almost: bouldering should be hard. It's a…

I don't understand - are you surprised there are some easy routes? 3s are mostly for first timers and warming up. I'm not saying there aren't also difficult ones.

I'm surprised there's "a dozen" that are one step above, "walk-able" - absolutely! I'm used to 1 or 2 absolute beginner/warmup problems set.

I do believe my gym has a V15 set at the moment. I was watching Dave Graham unsuccessfully work a tricky V12. Pros winter over and live in the parking lot of this place.

What gym do you go to?

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