There's nothing sneaky going on here; which the article seems to imply.
Currently there is no UI to configure any of this yet (other than about:config) but you can trivially select any DNS provider that implements this in the same place where you turn this on. The relevant setting is network.trr.uri. Also, you need to opt in to this to turn it on so you'd be reviewing this setting as well. Also you can configure how this is used, how and when it falls back to normal DNS, etc.
You can run your own server if you want; or use the one from your provider if/when they implement this. For obvious reasons, there are not a lot of usable servers yet but it seems Google has implemented this as well. So I assume they plan to roll this out for Chrome at some point.
The premise of this article seems to be that you should trust your provider to do DNS and do it well. I'm sorry to say but for the vast majority of providers I have experience with the opposite is the case. I've had providers redirect dns failures to advertising pages in the past, shitty performance (600 ms or worse), and generally trying to rip me off with bad network infrastructure related outages while charging me a premium for bandwidth clearly not delivered via obviously very congested infrastructure. I have no reason whatsoever to trust them, at all. The less they can learn from my traffic the better.