Here is what I love to see:
1. An understanding of the fields of work and of their evolution. Don't look for candidates based on languages and libraries -- those might be OK to get an initial shortlist, but:
a) Any programmer past junior level should be able to pick up a library (from a field he understands) in ~1 week and become minimally productive with a language in 2-3 weeks.
b) It's the idioms of each field that are difficult to teach, not the tech tools. Someone who did Java ME programming back in 2003 is probably better suited for an embedded software engineering position than someone who has 5 years of writing C++ code in the banking industry.
2. Erring on the side of inclusiveness. If you have doubts about whether I should see a candidate or not, send me the resume and we'll figure it out.
3. Valuing listening over "established patterns". Case in point: short job tenures. I've given favourable feedback for kids who, early in their careers, hand changed two or three jobs in a row. They were brilliant programmers who ended up in large companies, where managers many layers above them assigned them tasks way below their skill level, based on their title of "Junior Software Engineers" rather than on reading their CVs. They did the smart thing and left jobs that hampered their professional development. So far, I have not been wrong about this a single time.
That's not to say short job tenures are always something to ignore. Some people have them because they're assholes -- but okay, we won't hire them because they're assholes, not because they spent less than an year in two places.
4. Valuing honesty over "right" answers. I know people who left their jobs because their boss was a dick, HR wouldn't handle it, their boss's boss was an even bigger dick and they had no access to that boss's boss. These people should be able to say why they're leaving their jobs, not invent reasons about company culture and looking for new challenges and self-deprecating comments about how they just don't think they belong in that team.
5. Appreciating competence, thoroughness and professionalism, not things like enthusiasm. Some of the best engineers I know work on a strictly 9-5 basis and go home to their kids and don't touch computers by choice because their kids are the world to them. Professionalism and competence are hard to fake. Enthusiasm isn't.
If you want to appreciate enthusiasm, take real, falsifiable cues. Don't look for broad smiles and "I'm so super enthusiastic about ". For example, look for relevant hobbies, like ham radio or restoring old computers. Any idiot can fake being enthusiastic about programming in an interview, but faking it by writing m68k on a Friday evening for fun is above and beyond what most people would do in order to look like they love their profession.