Bookbinding: A Tutorial (1995)
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Bookbinding: A Tutorial (1995)
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Re: Bookbinding: A Tutorial (1995)
#2Alhafiz co Providing first Class Book Binding Services
http://www.alhafiz.com/binding-all-products
Re: Bookbinding: A Tutorial (1995)
#3Should go along well with this: https://diybookscanner.org
Be sure to check out the forum, lots of information.
Re: Bookbinding: A Tutorial (1995)
#4Should go along well with this: https://diybookscanner.org Be sure to check out the forum, lots of information.
Or this book scanner, which I saw at a Makerfair: http://copybooks.childrenofmay.org/
Re: Bookbinding: A Tutorial (1995)
#5Now this is an ideal crowd and topic to ask a question that is niggling me for a long time. What paper could you use with regular laser printers to get professionally looking printed book? The regular A4 is just too thick, and books printed this way look clumsy.
Re: Bookbinding: A Tutorial (1995)
#6Now this is an ideal crowd and topic to ask a question that is niggling me for a long time. What paper could you use with regular laser printers to get professionally looking printed book? The regular A4 is just too thick, and books printed this way look clumsy.
the gsm of paper determines it's thickness https://www.stuprint.com/news/what-does-gsm-means
Re: Bookbinding: A Tutorial (1995)
#7I once say a video tutorial, 80s I think, from the US Navy IIRC, on book binding, manuals and such. It was great.
I think it was on the Madame Trash Heap, A.K.A. YouTube.
Anyone have any searching clues? I'd like to see it again.
Re: Bookbinding: A Tutorial (1995)
#8Now this is an ideal crowd and topic to ask a question that is niggling me for a long time. What paper could you use with regular laser printers to get professionally looking printed book? The regular A4 is just too thick, and books printed this way look clumsy.
"Regular" paper is usually 20 lb. or 24 lb.; I am not sure what that is in gsm.
So far I've found it to be too thin, actually, though I'm using an inkjet printer (modified for a continuous ink system).
I've used 28 lb. and 32 lb. paper, although next time I see it I'm going to buy something thicker (36 lb. or 40 lb., assuming the pattern for commercially available thicknesses holds inductively). Thinner paper seems to be a bit too transparent, but that might be a function of the type of paper or my printer's generosity with regards to ink.
Having sewn and bound a couple of books following similar tutorials, my advice is to actually get a professional print shop to make your books if you want something of professional quality[0]. Doing it by hand is a viable hobby, but even with my continuous ink system, it's probably not economical because of the time required to bind everything together. Printing with laser is probably more expensive.
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0. If you just want to get some notes together in a reasonably permanent form, here's my three step approach to creating usable, but necessarily "beautiful" books. First, print off your book, arrange the pages, and add a blank page before the first page and after the last page. Second, align the pages carefully, ensuring that the spine is flat. Clamp the pages together, using something flat (another book, or a piece of wood works) to distribute the pressure. Finally, apply some Gorilla Glue (or similar) to the spine of the book, ensuring that the entire spine is covered but wiping away excess insofar as that is possible. Leave overnight, or until the glue cures.
The result: a surprisingly durable book from a process that takes less than 10 minutes, assuming you've got the materials handy. You can make it more presentable by adding a cover (I cut folders or cardstock into a book cover, and then glue them onto those blank pages).
Re: Bookbinding: A Tutorial (1995)
#9I've had good success with a completely amateur method I learned from my dad (who was anything but a bookbinder):
1. With a saw, cut vertical slits along the "spine", 1 or 2 cm apart, and just 2 or 3 mm deep (that's roughly 1/2" and 1/10" respectively, for the metric challenged).
2. Take some dental floss. Make a knot on one end, jam it in one of the end slits.
3. Run the dental floss alternatively up and down through the slits, in a S-like pattern. When you get to the end of the spine, run the thread again towards the other end, covering each slit again but in the opposite direction. After this, each slit has two bits of thread, and each cover and back segment between the slits is covered once. Secure the thread with another knot.
4. Apply carpenter's glue on the spine. Spread it so it covers the spine and thread fully.
This proves to be incredibly sturdy, and usable even in thick books, although for these it becomes difficult to keep open in the middle, as the spine is a bit stiff.
Re: Bookbinding: A Tutorial (1995)
#10Now this is an ideal crowd and topic to ask a question that is niggling me for a long time. What paper could you use with regular laser printers to get professionally looking printed book? The regular A4 is just too thick, and books printed this way look clumsy.
the gsm of paper determines it's thickness https://www.stuprint.com/news/what-does-gsm-means
In general yes, but a better measure of thickness specifically is it's caliper. These are usually strongly correlated with gsm for a particular type of stock, but not necessarily for different types of stocks.
For example, we use uncalendered cotton stock for our letterpress printing and which has a thicker caliper for a given weight than typical, allowing better impression when printed.
Paper can be a beautiful thing when you get into it... :)