The DDD/CQRS/ES topic appears on Hacker News every so often, and never fails to stir a strong debate. In fact, I was going to "Show HN" an Event Sourcing library I open sourced yesterday, but I guess I'll wait until everything dies down a bit :-)
I believe that the core principles of DDD/CQRS/ES are flawed and are the cause of a lot of pain. If your team plows forward and ignores the pain, you will have a bad experience working there. If your team decides to fix the problems with the architecture (usually in a way that's rather specific to their situation), and still insists that they're doing DDD/CQRS/ES, then you will have a great experience. The same can be said of many approaches to SQL database design.
When I joined Lokad, most of the code had been written by a strong CQRS advocate, and there were significant pain points caused by this approach that would have been nonexistent with a plain old SQL architecture. The author himself did a retrospective that covers a few issues: https://abdullin.com/lokad-cqrs-retrospective/
Instead of dropping everything and moving back to a more conventional SQL architecture, we dropped everything and moved to a solution which, if I were to describe it as DDD/CQRS/ES, would have me branded as a heretic by the DDD/CQRS/ES community: it does fit the definition, but it does not follow the best practices. There is a single data model shared by both commands and queries. Commands can sometimes return data. Each (micro?)service has access to exactly one aggregate. There is no uncertainty on event ordering, and no eventual consistency at the aggregate level. Materialized views for each aggregate are kept in-memory at all times. All of these intentional weakenings of the CQRS architecture were driven by pragmatic needs, and made with knowledge of the consequences.