This is perhaps one of the more unexpected opinions on C++ I've encountered. When I picked up C++ with Turbo C++ 3.0 in the early '90s, it was already widely regarded as an over-complex behemoth. Donald Knuth said of it in 1993, "Whenever the C++ language designers had two competing ideas as to how they should solve some problem, they said 'OK, we'll do them both'. So the language is too baroque for my taste." The last twenty years, there's no C++ that I would call lean, expressive, and elegant. You give the example of template meta-programming as something added more recently, but Erwin Unruh was printing the primes in compiler error messages not long after Knuth was knocking C++ as baroque. It makes me wonder if perhaps the issue isn't simply that over time you've become more aware of how complex the language has always been?
The language has continued to grow, but it's growing in a rather different direction (or rather in a clear direction): towards a modern, preferred subset that _is_ lean, expressive, and elegant. While C++ is still far from my favorite language, I find C++ today to be far simpler, more expressive, and more elegant than at any other point in the past.