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Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

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Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#111
post #31

What amazes me more, right now, is that there are people on HN who not only KNOW about climbing, but actually DO it. By comparison, I tend to consider a brisk walk too much exercise.

Greetings from Europe, im kinda SVP and COO (yeah i know, embarassing, but still coding!) climbing 7a OS. Forty plus.

On most business trips I have always pair of my climbing shoes and first lookup in a new city is for climbing gym :-)

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#112
post #94

Every time time someone uses the world "conquer" to describe a climbing accomplishment, a million climbers face palm. That said, this is a pretty descriptive article describing what happened in a way accessible to fairly general audience. I particularly liked the comparison "it's akin to Usain Bolt also being the fastest marathoner alive. That’s the hold Ondra has on climbing." It's incredible to imagine how far this…

For the non-climbers, conquer is much easier to understand than send.

Never heard of send before, is it just short for ascend?

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#113
post #74
post #48

In what way is this a hacker piece of news ? What's next ? "This cat completes Record Backflip" ? Please refrain, Thx

You can find an explanation here https://blog.codinghorror.com/software-projects-as-rock-clim... http://adaptivepatchwork.com/2011/01/10/why-programmers-love... http://breckyunits.com/what-can-a-programmer-learn-from-rock...

Thank You toppy.

Your second link mentioning problem solving is interesting. But overall I think the comparison is a little stretched.

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#114
post #11
post #9

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Here's Caldwell on pitch 15 last year: https://youtu.be/PLd_c4CjG44

What kind of strength does one have to have on the finger to be able to hold himself with just the tip? I have always wondered. I only saw climbing scenes in movies and have always wondered if people actually are able to work with such little grip and it seems they are. So for such climbing do they use earlier runs to put the rings (whatever they are call) for the safety lines during the actual climb?

Should be noted, just to appreciate the kind of badass Tommy is, that he climbed the Dawn Wall with only 9 fingers :)

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#115

Earlier quoted context omitted.

It's much, much harder, particularly when you realize that the Yosemite Decimal System progresses like the Richter scale, in the sense that a step from 5.13a to 5.13b (an increase of 1 grade unit) is leaps and bounds harder to achieve than improving from, say, 5.8 to 5.9. Although this was the myth I was taught (or what us precocious kids must have made ourselves believed, since obv. we were progressing so well/so po…

I've always thought of it in the way that if you went to an area like Yosemite or Font (bouldering) - then for every 100 people messing about, then 10 of them would be able to climb (5.12, Font 7a+) and 1 of them would be climbing (5.13, Font 8a). Those difficulty conversion are possibly way way off and this areas may attract particularly good climbers ... but my point is the scale is logarithmic in the sense of how…

At least in bouldering, John Gill proposed the, "B" scale, which measured basically how many people were able to top the problem. So if you established a climb, it gets a grade of, "B1", until another person gets sends it "B2". This scale basically favors the hardest problems being the most important, and adjusts the grade of the climbs, as the "sport" progresses.

Gill was a Math professor, so this is somewhat interesting to the discussion. He famously thought of boulders as, "problems", of course.

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#116
post #109
post #48

In what way is this a hacker piece of news ? What's next ? "This cat completes Record Backflip" ? Please refrain, Thx

> In what way is this a hacker piece of news ? As always when someone asks such questions (including when I asked one a week or so ago), the answer is that this is a site for news of interest to hackers, not necessarily news about hacking. If you want to judge whether this is of interest to hackers, then just look at the lively activity of the rest of the thread; it compares quite favourably to even some quieter fron…

You are right, this is not Hacking News. And I regret my vehemence.

Still, the livelyhood of the thread is not much of a factor in my opinion.

Though rock-climbing is in itself interesting (maybe more than average to devs) it has no direct link to being a hacker/dev.

It borders on 'lifestyle' kind of content.

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#117

Earlier quoted context omitted.

It's much, much harder, particularly when you realize that the Yosemite Decimal System progresses like the Richter scale, in the sense that a step from 5.13a to 5.13b (an increase of 1 grade unit) is leaps and bounds harder to achieve than improving from, say, 5.8 to 5.9. Although this was the myth I was taught (or what us precocious kids must have made ourselves believed, since obv. we were progressing so well/so po…

It's a log scale, just not necessarily log10. It's like lots of things in sport, actually. Imagine the progression from running a 6 minute mile to a 5 minute mile to a 4 minute mile. Now go to a 3:55 from there. It's a much smaller notch than 6:00 to 5:00, but will take you ten years of training. So sure, you can consider it just adding more weight to the bar in a linear fashion. It still a lot harder to lift each in…

Actually, I don't consider it like adding weight, since climbing grade difficulty isn't calculated in a way that would be so simple.

There's no objective way climbs are organized in difficulty except by subjective feeling. Holds may be (say) smaller, and/or farther apart, but the difficulty can only be sussed out in a general sense - there's far too many things to take into consideration.

Compounding all this is that a climb could be more/less difficult because of a climber's body type (tall/short climbers excel at different climbs)

So you're left with a consensus, which is living and breathing, not a calculation.

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#118
post #35

Earlier quoted context omitted.

It's much, much harder, particularly when you realize that the Yosemite Decimal System progresses like the Richter scale, in the sense that a step from 5.13a to 5.13b (an increase of 1 grade unit) is leaps and bounds harder to achieve than improving from, say, 5.8 to 5.9. Although this was the myth I was taught (or what us precocious kids must have made ourselves believed, since obv. we were progressing so well/so po…

Yeah, 5.10a -> 5.10b is about the same step up as 5.7 -> 5.8 and the Yosemite Decimal System was indeed developed somewhere other than Yosemite: Tahquitz/Suicide in Southern CA [1] (where many of the golden age climbers and stonemasters honed their skills) [1]: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tahquitz_Peak

My suggestion is that it's not. I would be very curious on how one can empirically prove this.

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#119
post #94

Earlier quoted context omitted.

For the non-climbers, conquer is much easier to understand than send.

Never heard of send before, is it just short for ascend?

In simple terms, yes. More often it is used to mean that you were able to make it up a climb without taking a fall, having your belayer hold you with the rope, or pulling on any fixed gear.

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#120
post #10

Plug for Valley Uprising (on Netflix) if you're interested in climbing. The progression of difficulty and (mostly friendly and supportive) competition between climbers is inspiring. Amazing feat! PS: Would be happy to take anyone else's recommendations for videos or books too.

"Touching the Void" is another great climbing/mountaineering book that is well worth the read. I have not seen the movie adaptation yet, so I cannot comment on its quality.
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