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Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

outsideonline.com

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Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#91

Post by mmartinson »

Every time time someone uses the world "conquer" to describe a climbing accomplishment, a million climbers face palm.

That said, this is a pretty descriptive article describing what happened in a way accessible to fairly general audience. I particularly liked the comparison "it's akin to Usain Bolt also being the fastest marathoner alive. That’s the hold Ondra has on climbing." It's incredible to imagine how far this guy might push the sport, given everything he has already accomplished at such a young age.

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#92

Post by un-devmox »

overcast wrote: post #80

I'm sure this will get down voted into oblivion. I respect the passion of climbing, I really do. However, I never agreed with drilling holes, and placing bolts, in all of these amazing natural structures. Just another thing we have to ruin for human enjoyment :(

For those interested in the bolt or not to bolt debate, the Dawn Wall has always been at the epicenter of this controversy. When Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell did the first ascent they placed many bolts (most were tiny brittle aluminum dowels). Later, Royal Robbins and Don Lauria, made the 2nd ascent with the intention of removing those bolts. But they stopped removing the bolts as the beauty of the climb became apparent.

IMO, as someone who has climbed in the Valley for more than 25 years and has always been a traditionalist, drilled bolts have there place in climbing. It would be hard to convince me that bolts on El Cap or any where else in the Valley have 'ruined' the massif.

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#93

Post by takk309 »

tmd83 wrote: post #11
Fricken wrote: post #9

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Here's Caldwell on pitch 15 last year: https://youtu.be/PLd_c4CjG44

What kind of strength does one have to have on the finger to be able to hold himself with just the tip? I have always wondered. I only saw climbing scenes in movies and have always wondered if people actually are able to work with such little grip and it seems they are. So for such climbing do they use earlier runs to put the rings (whatever they are call) for the safety lines during the actual climb?

To make Caldwell's accomplishment more impressive, he is missing one of his index fingers. He lost it in a table saw quite a while ago.

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#94

Post by takk309 »

mmartinson wrote: post #91

Every time time someone uses the world "conquer" to describe a climbing accomplishment, a million climbers face palm. That said, this is a pretty descriptive article describing what happened in a way accessible to fairly general audience. I particularly liked the comparison "it's akin to Usain Bolt also being the fastest marathoner alive. That’s the hold Ondra has on climbing." It's incredible to imagine how far this…

For the non-climbers, conquer is much easier to understand than send.

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#95

Post by tunap »

saiya-jin wrote: post #69
Jaruzel wrote: post #31

What amazes me more, right now, is that there are people on HN who not only KNOW about climbing, but actually DO it. By comparison, I tend to consider a brisk walk too much exercise.

well, it is properly amazing activity. endless creativity in movements and situation (unless you only go to gym which would be a shame, but even that is great thing to do), you work out yourself to decent fitness at least, and usually in beautiful mountainous/natural environments. and let's not forget constant need to overcome one's fear of dying/getting injured, which a pretty strong reflex - this builds good overal…

"add to it very friendly community"

Mmmm, my experience was quite different. I found it very click-ish and there was never a shortage of people saying "you're doing it wrong" based entirely on an incomplete observation from an obstructed vantage, technical differences of opinion or merely vanilla brow-beaters. If lots of testosterone(not exclusively) and competition is what you're after, then my point doesn't apply to you. This does not imply all climbers, but enough times I opted to avoid established routes and crowds. To each their own.

Been exploring remote canyons & game trails solo for 25 years, I find the experience of discovery on 3s and 4s more satisfying than conquering 5+s for the nth time.

edit; addwd an "If"

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#96

Post by saiya-jin »

tunap wrote: post #95
saiya-jin wrote: post #69

Earlier quoted context omitted.

well, it is properly amazing activity. endless creativity in movements and situation (unless you only go to gym which would be a shame, but even that is great thing to do), you work out yourself to decent fitness at least, and usually in beautiful mountainous/natural environments. and let's not forget constant need to overcome one's fear of dying/getting injured, which a pretty strong reflex - this builds good overal…

"add to it very friendly community" Mmmm, my experience was quite different. I found it very click-ish and there was never a shortage of people saying "you're doing it wrong" based entirely on an incomplete observation from an obstructed vantage, technical differences of opinion or merely vanilla brow-beaters. If lots of testosterone(not exclusively) and competition is what you're after, then my point doesn't apply t…

Hmm, then our experience is quite different. Are you in US? my experience is solely in Europe, Switzerland and France to be more precise.

Nevertheless those explorative scramble/easy climbs are indeed very nice experiences, but it depends. Matterhorn hornli route has only 4c french grade as at crux, but doing it with massive exposure, cold, in alpine boots/crampons and gloves makes it damn stressful and hard for us weekend warriors for example.

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#97

Post by geephroh »

ethbro wrote: post #10

Plug for Valley Uprising (on Netflix) if you're interested in climbing. The progression of difficulty and (mostly friendly and supportive) competition between climbers is inspiring. Amazing feat! PS: Would be happy to take anyone else's recommendations for videos or books too.

If you liked Valley Uprising, you should check out the documentary Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey, coming out in 2017 (http://dirtbagmovie.com/). Beckey was a pioneer of climbing all the way back to the 1940s -- and is still doing it today at 93. Saw him at Vertical World here in Seattle just a few months ago. Epic.

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#98

Post by takk309 »

wlll wrote: post #88
overcast wrote: post #80

I'm sure this will get down voted into oblivion. I respect the passion of climbing, I really do. However, I never agreed with drilling holes, and placing bolts, in all of these amazing natural structures. Just another thing we have to ruin for human enjoyment :(

Ruined is a little strong. It's not like you can see the bolts unless you're up-close and personal with them, like for instance if you're climbing.

Sometimes it is easy to miss them while climbing!

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#99

Post by module0000 »

un-devmox wrote: post #92
overcast wrote: post #80

I'm sure this will get down voted into oblivion. I respect the passion of climbing, I really do. However, I never agreed with drilling holes, and placing bolts, in all of these amazing natural structures. Just another thing we have to ruin for human enjoyment :(

For those interested in the bolt or not to bolt debate, the Dawn Wall has always been at the epicenter of this controversy. When Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell did the first ascent they placed many bolts (most were tiny brittle aluminum dowels). Later, Royal Robbins and Don Lauria, made the 2nd ascent with the intention of removing those bolts. But they stopped removing the bolts as the beauty of the climb became a…

I get the bolts-are-good and bolts-are-bad side of the argument. When I see them, they remind me of survey markers...you only notice them when they are relevant to what you are doing, and they remind me that someone "was here".

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#100

Post by tunap »

saiya-jin wrote: post #96
tunap wrote: post #95

Earlier quoted context omitted.

"add to it very friendly community" Mmmm, my experience was quite different. I found it very click-ish and there was never a shortage of people saying "you're doing it wrong" based entirely on an incomplete observation from an obstructed vantage, technical differences of opinion or merely vanilla brow-beaters. If lots of testosterone(not exclusively) and competition is what you're after, then my point doesn't apply t…

Hmm, then our experience is quite different. Are you in US? my experience is solely in Europe, Switzerland and France to be more precise. Nevertheless those explorative scramble/easy climbs are indeed very nice experiences, but it depends. Matterhorn hornli route has only 4c french grade as at crux, but doing it with massive exposure, cold, in alpine boots/crampons and gloves makes it damn stressful and hard for us w…

Yes, the south-west US exclusively. I never achieved "big wall" climber status. I have much respect for those who achieve such heights, while not necessarily caring for the attitude/mindset/personality required to reach such lofty goals.
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