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Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

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Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#11

Post by tmd83 »

Fricken wrote: post #9
wolf550e wrote: post #6

Are there more photos of what this climb looks like? Maybe a video?

Here's Caldwell on pitch 15 last year: https://youtu.be/PLd_c4CjG44

What kind of strength does one have to have on the finger to be able to hold himself with just the tip? I have always wondered. I only saw climbing scenes in movies and have always wondered if people actually are able to work with such little grip and it seems they are.

So for such climbing do they use earlier runs to put the rings (whatever they are call) for the safety lines during the actual climb?

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#13

Post by Someone »

jdale27 wrote: post #5

That is fucking amazing. I can't even comprehend what it must be like to be living on that wall for eight days (let alone 19 or 28). The mental and emotional state it must put you in...

This has been getting a bit easier, emotionally. He had a phone and Internet (he posted on Instagram from the wall, if I read the article correctly)

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#14

Post by jasonkester »

tmd83 wrote: post #11
Fricken wrote: post #9

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Here's Caldwell on pitch 15 last year: https://youtu.be/PLd_c4CjG44

What kind of strength does one have to have on the finger to be able to hold himself with just the tip? I have always wondered. I only saw climbing scenes in movies and have always wondered if people actually are able to work with such little grip and it seems they are. So for such climbing do they use earlier runs to put the rings (whatever they are call) for the safety lines during the actual climb?

In general, when you see a climber bearing down on a tiny crimp that fits the very tip of just one finger, seeming to support his body weight on it, that is exactly what is happening. His feet will be on holds that are considerably worse.

The amazing thing is that if you apply yourself to climbing and train for a few years, you will be able to move off similar holds in similar positions.

It's a pretty cool feeling.

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#17

Post by jasonkester »

I think that this style of climbing resonates a lot better with the general public because it does such a good job of conveying difficulty.

If you look at a photo of Adam on one of his 9b's [1], it looks like a guy having a really hard time in a really steep place, but there are holds there. You see things that seem like a fella could hang from them.

Compare to the photo in the article, with its dead vertical, mile-high flat granite surface that's, well, kinda bumpy. There is nowhere in that image that the layman could picture himself existing for even a second before falling off.

It's a shame, in a way, that we sort of climbed off the top of the feasible difficulty for this style of route back in the '90s and had to turn to steeper, longer routes. You just don't get the captivating photos like you used to these days.

[1] https://www.8a.nu/images/news/large/636002137114161240_13320...

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#18

Post by carsonbaker »

tmd83 wrote: post #11
Fricken wrote: post #9

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Here's Caldwell on pitch 15 last year: https://youtu.be/PLd_c4CjG44

What kind of strength does one have to have on the finger to be able to hold himself with just the tip? I have always wondered. I only saw climbing scenes in movies and have always wondered if people actually are able to work with such little grip and it seems they are. So for such climbing do they use earlier runs to put the rings (whatever they are call) for the safety lines during the actual climb?

There's just one safety line (it's called the lead line) and it runs through -- in the video you watch -- quickdraws (or slings with carabiners) that hang on bolts. On other pitches of climbing, it runs through different types of protection: cams, nuts, pitons, and what's called "fixed mank."

And yes, the bolts here were originally installed earlier, possibly back in 70s by the first ascensionist, although I'm not sure what the history of the present-day bolts are. I'm guessing they were added by Caldwell/Jorgeson as they were preparing the free variation of this classic aid line some years ago.

There are various ethical considerations in bolting and it gets very contentious among people who care about this sort of thing.

Suffice to say, to free climb a route like this, yes, you have to be incredibly strong, mentally and physically.

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#19

Post by carsonbaker »

function_seven wrote: post #7
wolf550e wrote: post #6

Are there more photos of what this climb looks like? Maybe a video?

Just now I found this: http://www.rockandice.com/dawn-wall-el-cap-yosemite-topo EDIT: I should note that this image is the route that a different pair of climbers took last year. I’m not sure if Adam followed the same route or not.

Yep, that's exactly what he did.

Re: Czech climber Adam Ondra has conquered the Dawn Wall in record time

#20

Post by spuz »

toppy wrote: post #15

How it compares to what Alex Honnold achieved on The Nose? Difficulty or size is different?

Alex Honnold has done the fastest aid climb of the Nose. It's the same height as the Dawn Wall but much easier difficulty wise (5.8 vs 5.14d).
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