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Street food chef's stall becomes world's first to earn Michelin star

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Re: Street food chef's stall becomes world's first to earn Michelin star

#31
post #30
post #11

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I think in general the hawker stands are such an integral part of the Singaporean culinary culture that, even as an homage, you'd have to honor that culture by finding the best one to give a star to. I'm certain that his food is outstanding, but it's also a good move to ingratiate yourselves with the locals as you start your business there. As an aside, I have never been anywhere with more consistently amazing food t…

Just curious - have you been to Bangkok? "Just wander around and eat at random — you have a decent chance of having one of the best meals of your life" was my impression of it — but I haven't had chance to visit Singapore yet, so I'm wondering how it compares.

Bangkok is much cheaper and has more variety than Singapore. It has real communities from different parts of the region and the world who maintain their culture, run their own schools, and speak their own languages... not some kind of silly-Singlish with cheapened versions of iconic dishes of everywhere, like this Michelin stared foodstall selling soy sauce meat. The ignorance of western culinary practitioners to mainland Chinese cuisine is really staggering.

It wouldn't surprise me if the Michelin star reviewers they used here were those "considers-self-Chinese, can't-even-properly-speak-Mandarin" Singaporeans with some kind of half western/half-Singapore restauranteur career and a Cantonese family.

The first time I went to China, 15 years ago, I flew through Singapore. "Eat well here, the food in China is terrible!" my ultra-rich Chinese-Singaporean friends told me. Still in China now, and I've since been back to Singapore: how wrong they were!

I just founded a mainland Chinese food-related startup...

Re: Street food chef's stall becomes world's first to earn Michelin star

#32
I have mixed feelings about this Guide and I think it's important to see the backstory.

The origins of the Michelin Guide were to be a trustworthy guide for its salesmen travelling around the country. Gradually, it became the de facto standard for an impartial guide that not only checked food quality with experienced, anonymous inspectors but also consistency with repeated visits - all costing a fortune, all more than made back with sales. Chefs would literally kill themselves for losing a star (see [1]). The Gault Millau became the Michelin rival but few other guides or competitors really existed.

This has been true in London or Tokyo as well as Paris. You could trust the Michelin Guide: not only would your meal be good, it would be roughly at the level implied by the stars, and it would always be good.

However, I suspect the internet killed sales of the paper guide and generally, as with movie piracy, reduced the amount of money people were willing to pay for the information. Why pay when you can check any of a thousand blogs and newspapers and grab the latest stars there? So the Guide needed a new strategy and Singapore is sort of the hard launch of it.

This Guide was financed (cannot find a source now) by both the tourism authorities (fair enough) and various corporate sponsors (not so good for impartiality). Various writers (see for example [2]) have pointed out the large presence of Resorts World Sentosa restaurants (this is also where the award ceremony was held) and the absence of young interesting chefs or many restaurants that are on par with the starred.

(Examples: I'm personally surprised not to see Gunther's anywhere in the rankings, since the restaurant has been around for years, is a massive favourite of the community, has a chef with pedigree in Singapore (Les Amis, starred), the service is friendly (I've eaten there in shorts a couple of times surrounded by suits and it was STILL friendly) and despite the eye watering dinner prices there's a $35 set lunch with 3 courses and petits fours which is one of the most generous in Singapore. No mention of Hakumai, where a Singaporean chef with a decade of training and experience at the best sushi-yas is doing very interesting things with the same Tsukuji fish used at every other high end sushi-ya in the country. Pollen is not listed; I haven't eaten there, but corporate friends who have and who do these things all the time often told me they thought it was "the best", and Jason Atherton has stars in London where the standards are higher.)

And then we get to the food courts. Yes, including a chicken rice stall and a bak chor mee stall have gotten the "new Michelin Guide" what they wanted - massive PR, as seen by many of the comments on this thread and virtually every headline everywhere. Yes, hawker food can be good and filling. But it's also quite commonly good. I've not been to either of the starred stalls but friends have and confirm they are nothing that rare - you can probably find a similar quality stall in your neighbourhood.

So, either you star them all - after spending a year and a huge staff to create a good quality guide - or you don't star any of them, because the standard of cooking is far below what - even in Hong Kong - used to pass as the minimum for a star. Just yesterday, I was hesitating between two stalls facing each other, both of whom were making their noodle fresh from flour even as they served customers. This is normal and starring a hawker is like starring a bakery or cheesemonger in Paris (not Pierre Herme, more like your decent neighbourhood bakery) or a chippy in London or a kebab or pizza truck in Berlin. It's a massive departure from what the guide stood for.

On the other hand, Singapore is the ideal city for this departure, because its food review scene is completely and utterly commercialised. I ate yesterday at a delicious, packed restaurant which has 2.5/5 on Yelp and is ignored by bloggers. I've talked to chefs who have confirmed that bloggers and reviewers literally come in and say "I have X visitors, feed me your best food for free" and in some cases "if you don't, I'll slam your restaurant" (one did not, the threat was executed). The bulk of the high spending customers are brand driven - a chef that trained at a French 3* place told me he could not sell his boeuf charolais hanger steak because the customers repeatedly requested wagyu fillet and got angry at him for not stocking it. It makes it hard to spot where are good places to eat and as such everybody relies on word of mouth, friends' recommendations, and so on. Michelin was sorely needed but at the same time, could get away with what they did big time: now a steady stream of affluent foreign tourists will be directed like a hose at the awaiting arms of RSW's various commercial ventures, and the next year's Guide list price can probably go up multiples once the data is in.

I am sad as a Frenchman that one of the last bastions of French excellence has just died out like that. I hope Paris and Tokyo will not follow.

I recommend anybody who wants to understand why the Michelin was a big deal watch "L'Aile ou la Cuisse" [3]. The fight between integrity and encroaching corporate interests is absolutely there, and beyond the comedy, you get the message: journalism is about getting past your short term interests, fighting those who want to use you as a shortcut to profitability, and enlightening your readers.

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernard_Loiseau#Death

[2] http://www.straitstimes.com/lifestyle/food/unhappy-with-mich...

[3] http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0074103/

Re: Street food chef's stall becomes world's first to earn Michelin star

#34
post #12

Really fantastic achievement and a really down to earth take on food - good to see Michelin not adopting a stuffy elitist stance on their awards. I shudder, however, when I think of the queues to try this tasty goodness. For reference, queues can easily top 90 mins if a hawker stall is locally well reviewed! And just over the sea, the queues for Tim Ho Wan (Michelin star dim sum in Hong Kong) are also already oppress…

Queues like that always make me wonder if the restaurant is charging enough. If demand is outstripping supply, perhaps they should raise the prices until they have _just_ enough customers. Otherwise it seems like they're throwing money away and not capitalizing on success.

It's the Pulp Fiction $5 shake; if your food is good enough people will certainly pay more for it, even if the price seems absurd at first.

Note: I'm speaking from an American perspective, where it would be seen as odd to leave money on the table. In other cultures I'm sure the pride of having good food and happy customers outweighs profit.

Re: Street food chef's stall becomes world's first to earn Michelin star

#35
post #12

Really fantastic achievement and a really down to earth take on food - good to see Michelin not adopting a stuffy elitist stance on their awards. I shudder, however, when I think of the queues to try this tasty goodness. For reference, queues can easily top 90 mins if a hawker stall is locally well reviewed! And just over the sea, the queues for Tim Ho Wan (Michelin star dim sum in Hong Kong) are also already oppress…

Queues like that always make me wonder if the restaurant is charging enough. If demand is outstripping supply, perhaps they should raise the prices until they have _just_ enough customers. Otherwise it seems like they're throwing money away and not capitalizing on success. It's the Pulp Fiction $5 shake; if your food is good enough people will certainly pay more for it, even if the price seems absurd at first. Note:…

I agree, but enough people don't that it can quickly turn a community, or portion of it, against the business.

There's also the desire to not price out the loyal customers that got you to where you are.

Re: Street food chef's stall becomes world's first to earn Michelin star

#36
post #21

Until recently, I thought Michelin stars were awarded everywhere if the food was good enough. As it turns out, only select cities are reviewed. Recently there's been a big push to get Michelin to review food in Seoul, South Korea (which was successful). I always just thought the lack of stars meant the food scene wasn't quite good enough. It turns out the lack of stars in, say, Washington D.C., just means they haven'…

I mean, it's a French organization, give them time to establish a presence outside of Europe. I think they're only just taking notice of us here in the colonies. dry chuckle

Re: Street food chef's stall becomes world's first to earn Michelin star

#37
post #21

Until recently, I thought Michelin stars were awarded everywhere if the food was good enough. As it turns out, only select cities are reviewed. Recently there's been a big push to get Michelin to review food in Seoul, South Korea (which was successful). I always just thought the lack of stars meant the food scene wasn't quite good enough. It turns out the lack of stars in, say, Washington D.C., just means they haven'…

I mean, it's a French organization, give them time to establish a presence outside of Europe. I think they're only just taking notice of us here in the colonies. dry chuckle

They've only had 120 years...

Re: Street food chef's stall becomes world's first to earn Michelin star

#38
post #35

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Queues like that always make me wonder if the restaurant is charging enough. If demand is outstripping supply, perhaps they should raise the prices until they have _just_ enough customers. Otherwise it seems like they're throwing money away and not capitalizing on success. It's the Pulp Fiction $5 shake; if your food is good enough people will certainly pay more for it, even if the price seems absurd at first. Note:…

I agree, but enough people don't that it can quickly turn a community, or portion of it, against the business. There's also the desire to not price out the loyal customers that got you to where you are.

This is pretty astute.

Theoretically, the owner could probably get away with charging quite a lot more. If he were a cynical man/short-termist he could double/triple his prices (possibly even 10x his prices) and still be turning away business in the next couple of weeks while the hype train is running. The spectrum of prices for food in Singapore is pretty wide, you can easily have a meal for anywhere from 4SGD to 200+SGD so there would still be people up for trying Michelin-quality chicken rice if he suddenly started charging 20SGD for a meal.

That will definitely rub the community up the wrong way, given that hawker food is very much deeply entwined with the local community and relies heavily on regulars. The owners are often from the community too so such behaviour would incite feelings of "casting aside your roots".

Would seriously love to give this a try though, when I think of michelin food I tend to think of Heston-style experimental cuisine, which pushes the boundaries of food and employs novel cooking techniques. This type of food is labour intensive though and doesn't really work when one guy in a stall is serving 180 chickens a day. Hawker food done right is like the pinnacle of home-cooking so would be good to taste first-hand how good this is!

Re: Street food chef's stall becomes world's first to earn Michelin star

#39

Does the star go to the chef or to the stall? I always thought it was awarded to the restaurant rather than a particular member of staff. That would seem to preclude such small venues where the quality of food is so tied to the chef on duty at the time. This guy is always there, but the principal remains. Fyi, from what I've heard about getting your 'first' star is that there is then a not-fun obligation to try and k…

It depends. The star IS given to the restaurant, however they do consider how big the chef's influence is. Many restaurants lose a star or two when the chef leaves, and many don't.

In this particular case, if he were to sell the stall I'm sure it would lose the star. On the other hand, if he passes it on to a child or a protégé, the stall might keep the star.

Re: Street food chef's stall becomes world's first to earn Michelin star

#40
post #21

Until recently, I thought Michelin stars were awarded everywhere if the food was good enough. As it turns out, only select cities are reviewed. Recently there's been a big push to get Michelin to review food in Seoul, South Korea (which was successful). I always just thought the lack of stars meant the food scene wasn't quite good enough. It turns out the lack of stars in, say, Washington D.C., just means they haven'…

I like how you call Washington D.C. a "town". That's a very modest description of the capital of the world's only superpower. :P

Now, Järpen in Sweden is a town (with about 1400 inhabitants). It has a restaurant called Fäviken. This restaurant has two Michelin stars [1].

1. https://www.viamichelin.com/web/Restaurant/Jarpen-83005-Favi...

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