For the most part, America had nothing to do with the coup attempt and had no idea that it was about to happen. Honestly, the majority of Americans couldn't find Turkey on a map even if you centered the map on Turkey. However, I certainly wouldn't be surprised if a few CIA types provided assistance like they've been known (or suspected) to do in South America and other parts of the world. The US government clearly be…
Until about his recent to the US for Muhamed Ali's funeral, Erdoğan was his usual grumpy-old-grandfather self. He was on television every day spreading conspiracy theories, hatred, and misogyny. Within days of returning, he surpised us all by
- Repairing ties with Israel - Sending two ships of aid to Gaza (which was related to the rift with Israel) - Apologizing to Russia - Repairing trade and tourism ties with Russia (which is important. Between construction, agricultural exports and tourism, Russia means 10-15% of Türkiye's economy - Ordering the mayor of Istanbul (half) apologize to a Korean guy whose store was attacked on Ramazan, and chastizing the brutes who lead this attack. - Showing some flexibility about the schools being forced to convert into Imam Hatip (think Madrassa-Lite) - Suggesting that rich and educated Syrians would be given citizenship - Changing his public EU-accession rhetoric from dismissal to willing to negotiate
Even before the Atatürk airport attack everybody just knew something was coming, and the more general conspiracy theory was that Kerry either warned him of something coming, or made some pretty serious threats.
There is some credibility to this theory. Before the past few attacks embassies sent people home or told them not to show up for work, the Bastille day celebrations at the French Embassies in Ankara and Istanbul were canceled, friends at the US consul told us to stay home and cancel travel plans the day of the Ataturk attack (Surreally I flew back from a vacation 3 hours prior)
Unfortunately, Erdoğan has been very emboldened by the Coup, and most of this progress is gone for good.
We are hoping this all dies down, but I wouldn't advise visiting here this year. The nationalistic sentiment is very strong, the thugs are all out in force.
Well, I wouldn't entirely advise it. The very pleasant direct flight on Turkish Airlines from SFO to IST is about $1k right now. In Taksim nice hotels that used to cost $150/night now cost about $60. Hostels with breakfast are down to $7-$8 pretty much nation-wide. The beach-towns on the EGE & the Med rely almost solely on Russian and British touritsts who no longer come. Pansiyons (think B&B before AirBNB), AirBNB rooms, hotel rooms, and resort packages are almost free.
The dollar and the euro are very strong, and the GBP is still respectable. You no longer have to wait in line for attractions like Aga Safiya, the Basilica Cistern, the Topkapi Palace,or wade through a mob of people in the Grand Bazaar or the Spice Market.
Unfortunately this means that the music in Istanbul has died. Most of the best venues for Balkan/Turkish music have either shut down or switched to Spotify, many of the regular street musicians have given up.
"Come, come, whoever you are. Wanderer, worshiper, lover of leaving. It doesn't matter. Ours is not a caravan of despair. come, even if you have broken your vows a thousand times. Come, yet again , come , come" - Rumi