81–90 of 94 posts
As far as I understood the U2F standard, the dongles need a FIDO-issued manufacturer key. Do sites accepting U2F just not check that the corresponding signature is present?
Earlier quoted context omitted.
It's just a base + a hardener, mix and cast. Make sure you protect switches and connectors before casting. The reaction is exothermal, if you cast larger volumes you may need to cool the whole thing to avoid trouble (such as fire).
That sounds easy enough, thanks!
(In dutch, sorry, but you'll be able to find similar stuff all over the world)
My barrier to entry with a lot of DIY hardware projects was an incorrect assumption that it was difficult/expensive to get PCBs made. Looking into this, I found the blog of the guy running this project and he had some experience with various cheap PCB vendors, with stencils going as low as $18. [1] [1]: https://conorpp.com/2016/03/13/my-experience-with-dirtypcbsc...
At least in the fablab in my university you can make PCBs yourself (cheap, you have the result instantaneously). You can also get them done locally (expensive, relatively fast) or in China (cheap, takes long to ship).
It's quite a shame the "fablabs" have chosen to go with that approach (for philosophical reasons mostly, I guess, as the milling machine could also be used for other purposes) rather than a decent simple etching process.
Sorry for the rant, I've seen a "fab academy" student struggle with the process quite unreasonably during the last few weeks...
Two comments on the circuit: 1. If you're willing to add two more diodes, you can make the USB connector two-sided so that it can plug in either way. See http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/209941/two-si... for explanation. 2. The ALPS SKQGAKE010 ( http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualke... ) is inexpensive and popular. It looks like it's lower-profile than the button used in the curre…
The button you point out looks like a better choice. It's about 10 cents cheaper than my current one. Currently sold out with 13 week lead time at Mouser! Must be popular.
Two comments on the circuit: 1. If you're willing to add two more diodes, you can make the USB connector two-sided so that it can plug in either way. See http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/209941/two-si... for explanation. 2. The ALPS SKQGAKE010 ( http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualke... ) is inexpensive and popular. It looks like it's lower-profile than the button used in the curre…
Thanks for the comments! I never thought of trying to do a reversible USB connection. And it's actually quite easy! The button you point out looks like a better choice. It's about 10 cents cheaper than my current one. Currently sold out with 13 week lead time at Mouser! Must be popular.
That one requires more force to press. It's also more expensive, but it's in stock now. It has the same footprint, so it'd be good for prototyping.
My barrier to entry with a lot of DIY hardware projects was an incorrect assumption that it was difficult/expensive to get PCBs made. Looking into this, I found the blog of the guy running this project and he had some experience with various cheap PCB vendors, with stencils going as low as $18. [1] [1]: https://conorpp.com/2016/03/13/my-experience-with-dirtypcbsc...
In addition to the vendors you mention via that link, OSH Park[1] is great option for hobbyists (or very small-volume production). This is the same source listed in OP. It's a board pooling group that puts many small-run orders on the same panel to economize on setup costs. OSH Park uses high-quality US manufacturers to produce the boards (with tight tolerances, silkscreen, soldermask, gold-flashed pads, etc.) I beli…
Earlier quoted context omitted.
This must be awesome for training and university settings, to have such low cost options for learning the craft. Is it used much by startups / is it bringing down the barrier to entry that much?
Yes. Small startups that don't care too much about turnaround time love OSH Park and Seeed Studio. My last company did care about turn time but also wanted affordable boards. They used PCB-Pool: http://www.pcb-pool.com/ppus/index.html
My barrier to entry with a lot of DIY hardware projects was an incorrect assumption that it was difficult/expensive to get PCBs made. Looking into this, I found the blog of the guy running this project and he had some experience with various cheap PCB vendors, with stencils going as low as $18. [1] [1]: https://conorpp.com/2016/03/13/my-experience-with-dirtypcbsc...
Two-layer boards are now absurdly cheap, even in small quantities. The boards available from DirtyPCBs or Elecrow are perfectly satisfactory for most hobby projects. Four-layer boards with ENIG and fine pitch are now well within the realms of affordability, particularly small boards from OSHPark. The most economical stencils are avaliable from OSH Stencils. They offer mylar stencils for $0.64/square inch, with a mini…
My barrier to entry with a lot of DIY hardware projects was an incorrect assumption that it was difficult/expensive to get PCBs made. Looking into this, I found the blog of the guy running this project and he had some experience with various cheap PCB vendors, with stencils going as low as $18. [1] [1]: https://conorpp.com/2016/03/13/my-experience-with-dirtypcbsc...
Stencils aren't really needed, they're only really useful when using a reflow oven, and even then, I honestly think it's easier to hand solder for a single board than to pick and place and reflow.
http://www.instructables.com/id/T962A-SMD-Reflow-Oven-FixHac...
I have the T962A and it works really well with the mods. I generally reflow batches of 12 boards at a time (on custom manufacturing jigs). Much easier than hand-soldering and the results are near-perfect.
Earlier quoted context omitted.
A lot of amateur radio HF range projects use what is known as the "manhattan style" construction where, a copper clad board is used as a ground plane, so to speak and then tiny round pads are glued to it, which act as islands. The pads can be made using paper punch of appropriate grade. I have used cheap punch used for cutting paper and have made pads in the past. The parts are then soldered directly to these island…
Modern SMD microcontrollers tend to have pretty fine pin pitches, often in the 1mm ballpark. You really want a proper PCB for those.