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How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made

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Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made

#11

Post by Jtsummers »

DarkTree wrote: post #6
caiobegotti wrote: post #3

"But the setters are the wizards who really run the show. They are to a climbing wall what coders are to a video game, the geeks who keep you up all night obsessing over that winning sequence" This analogy with coders is pretty sweet. I really miss indoor climbing and bouldering, such fantastic mental exercises (which ironically relax you quite a bit even though your whole body aches) after a long day of work in fron…

Yeah I'd also be surprised if many programmers weren't climbers as well. Those two activities are basically my favorite two things to do, and I believe they complement each other very well. Much like programming, it gets harder the better you get at it.

Climbing seems (outsider here) to provide a good combination of technical and physical challenges. I've been getting back into martial arts (BJJ and, now, wrestling, hopefully boxing soon) and have found the same thing there. Ballroom dance, again, provides a nice combination of physical and technical challenges.

I think that's what appeals to programmers (and similarly technically inclined folks) about these hobbies and sports. You learn some basics, you develop the skill and strength to perform them, and then you start applying the knowledge in new and more creative ways to solve the problems you face on the boulder, in the ring or on the dance floor.

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made

#12

Post by larrik »

DarkTree wrote: post #6
caiobegotti wrote: post #3

"But the setters are the wizards who really run the show. They are to a climbing wall what coders are to a video game, the geeks who keep you up all night obsessing over that winning sequence" This analogy with coders is pretty sweet. I really miss indoor climbing and bouldering, such fantastic mental exercises (which ironically relax you quite a bit even though your whole body aches) after a long day of work in fron…

Yeah I'd also be surprised if many programmers weren't climbers as well. Those two activities are basically my favorite two things to do, and I believe they complement each other very well. Much like programming, it gets harder the better you get at it.

In SV, maybe, but I don't know about too many other places.

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made

#13

Post by presidentender »

Jtsummers wrote: post #11
DarkTree wrote: post #6

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Yeah I'd also be surprised if many programmers weren't climbers as well. Those two activities are basically my favorite two things to do, and I believe they complement each other very well. Much like programming, it gets harder the better you get at it.

Climbing seems (outsider here) to provide a good combination of technical and physical challenges. I've been getting back into martial arts (BJJ and, now, wrestling, hopefully boxing soon) and have found the same thing there. Ballroom dance, again, provides a nice combination of physical and technical challenges. I think that's what appeals to programmers (and similarly technically inclined folks) about these hobbies…

Where do you find wrestling as an adult?

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made

#14

Post by Jtsummers »

presidentender wrote: post #13
Jtsummers wrote: post #11

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Climbing seems (outsider here) to provide a good combination of technical and physical challenges. I've been getting back into martial arts (BJJ and, now, wrestling, hopefully boxing soon) and have found the same thing there. Ballroom dance, again, provides a nice combination of physical and technical challenges. I think that's what appeals to programmers (and similarly technically inclined folks) about these hobbies…

Where do you find wrestling as an adult?

The MMA gym I attend for BJJ. The owner was a wrestler in HS and college. There are a bunch of students (younger men than me) who have some background in wrestling (HS, college or both, some still in that) so he started a couple wrestling sessions a week for them. Also, some of the MMA guys wanted to learn a bit of wrestling to add to their skill set if they didn't have it already.

EDIT: Random plug, though this probably won't apply to anyone here: Rush MMA in downtown Macon, GA.

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made

#17

Post by djb_hackernews »

When did the setter worship start? The gym I go to, Brooklyn boulders in somerville ma, has pictures of the setters and little bios hanging on the walls... for sure it is a creative process but give someone a bucket of holds and an hour and you'll have something that is fun. A gym I used to go to used to let pretty much anyone set, just had to ask.

I think this explains the rating "deflation" where there aren't really any V0s because there is so much pressure to be known as a "hard" setter? Or possibly the dedicated setters are so experienced they don't remember what a V0 actually is? Either way I've found it to be an issue when trying to introduce climbing to novices.

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made

#18

Post by gamegoblin »

Something that really distinguishes bouldering gyms, for me, is the quality of the route setting.

I've been in gyms in which there are routes that are interesting and challenging at all levels. There are several variables the route setter can manipulate:

* Various strength areas (fingers/wrist, upper arms/upper back, core, legs)

* Flexibility

* Balance

* Skill moves (matches, switches, flagging, heel/toe hooks, etc)

* Dynamic moves (jump and grab, throws, etc.)

I usually climb ~V5 routes, but a well set V2 that properly exercises all of these different areas can still be fun to goof around on.

On the other hand, I've also climbed in gyms in which the routes are set almost solely on the strength variables. Separating a V3 and a V6 are only bigger, stronger moves. This makes for pretty dull climbing (in my opinion).

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made

#19

Post by peterwwillis »

The one annoying thing to me about route setting is there's seemingly no science to it (or at least I didn't get that from the article). I may climb a V5 at one gym, but not be able to crack a V3 at another. It would be nice to know if i'm really progressing or if Router Setter Bob just keeps labeling a V3 as a V5.

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made

#20

Post by etrautmann »

DarkTree wrote: post #6
caiobegotti wrote: post #3

"But the setters are the wizards who really run the show. They are to a climbing wall what coders are to a video game, the geeks who keep you up all night obsessing over that winning sequence" This analogy with coders is pretty sweet. I really miss indoor climbing and bouldering, such fantastic mental exercises (which ironically relax you quite a bit even though your whole body aches) after a long day of work in fron…

Yeah I'd also be surprised if many programmers weren't climbers as well. Those two activities are basically my favorite two things to do, and I believe they complement each other very well. Much like programming, it gets harder the better you get at it.

in SF and silicon valley, its functionally the millennial generation's golf-equivalent networking sport. An interesting observation is that very few of these climbers ever end up climbing outdoors.
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