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Rock climbing and the economics of innovation

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91–95 of 95 posts

Re: Rock climbing and the economics of innovation

#91

Has anyone else found that people who are really into rock climbing always feel the need to bring climbing up?

Hey bro, do you lift, bro? What are you at? Oh me, my 1rm dead is 375, bench 275, no belt, no gloves. Hey bro, do you do intermittent fasting? Yeah I do keto too, I use a 24-48 cleanse, I'm in ketosis for twice as long now. Hey bro, do you climb? Just redpointed a V7, up to 5.11c's on the wall after tearing a ligament on a wicked crimpy dyno. Yeah I'll be at Hueco the next two weeks. Hey bro, do you code? Me, I write…

Hey bro, do you HN? Yeah, I'm almost 1700 karma and can quote URLs to pg's posts and quips from tptacek and patio11. Do you even showdead?

Re: Rock climbing and the economics of innovation

#92
post #16

I loved this article. One other aspect I think it omitted, likely to balance brevity with scope, is about standard deviations. When you only have the most rich and privileged doing a sport (e.g. travelling to summit mountains) the "best" will be selected from a relatively small pool of candidates. As an activity gains popularity, and as more people have the means to pursue it, the pool of people for "best" grows and…

I think the main innovation is actually climbing gyms and their popularity, and I'm surprised they weren't talked about in the article. For instance, Alex Honnold replicated many of the difficult moves of Freerider in indoor gyms, which makes it logistically possible to train far more often and intensely. It also serves to further democratize the sport because you don't need the unlimited funds to travel to these spots in the middle of nowhere.

The campus board was only invented in 1988 by Wolfgang Güllich while he was training for Action Directe. Now there's one hanging in every gym in the world.

And I think Lynn Hill has said that one of the things that made her first free ascent of the Nose possible was new climbing gyms, that let her train more intensively than was possible before.

So yeah, as the sport grows we also get more gyms, which further grows the pool of potential record breakers to those who can't travel as much.

Re: Rock climbing and the economics of innovation

#93
post #30

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I hate being basic and following the crowd, but climbing is just so much fun. It is the most fun activity I've done, up there with Soccer....and easily the most fun individual activity. The reward after doing a tough route is just incredible.

> I hate being basic and following the crowd As much as my comment was a bit tongue-in-cheek, I don't mean to say you shouldn't do it because it's basic ;). I've been climbing for many many years and agree that it's extremely fun and rewarding. That doesn't change with more people enjoying it (but also stay home so I can get the good routes to myself ;) ).

I wear Chukka boots, flannels, OCBDs, white sneakers and olive chinos.

My hair are short on the sides and parted side on the top.

I am an Indian in tech, who got a masters in CS and will be on an H1b.

I might end up being basic, but as long as I do it out of my own free will, and not due to anyone else forcing it.....I can be at peace with myself.

> (but also stay home so I can get the good routes to myself

Sunday afternoon is it. I have been trying to go in the morning, but never wake up early enough.

Re: Rock climbing and the economics of innovation

#94
post #46

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Eh, I'm not too sure about that. Plastic is a poor substitute for real rock, and seasonal climbers experience a noticeably marked atrophy of outdoor climbing ability during the off-season when they are limited to gym climbing.

Especially true if you predominantly climb cracks.

Username checks out

Re: Rock climbing and the economics of innovation

#95
post #62

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Or google 'dirtbag climbing'. Fred Beckey was one of the masters. I heard a story that he didn't even have an address for much of his life.

Funny you mention Fred Beckey. Randomly met the guy once in a backcountry lodge (I'm an avid backpacker, he was on his way to summit a mountain). Anyhow, most of the climbers I've known were more well to do. It's like ski bums vs. skiers.

I never met Fred Beckey but have been reading his Cascade Alpine Guides for a good chunk of my life. It's an amazing series. Even did a few of the routes. :)
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