71–80 of 113 posts
Ethernet everywhere, and more than you think you need, even if you don't terminate every connection. Put in Cat-6, as it's easier to pull, and future proof. Everywhere you think you might need one cable, put 2, need 2, put 4. In fact, 4 strands/room might not be overkill. Where everything comes back to, put a patch panel - you can buy panels with 24 square slots and a bracket to hook it into the wall. I'd put this in…
Spray foam insulation in attic and basement (cellulose based). Mini-split AC system (multi-zoned Mitsubishi or LG). CAT-6 wired, RJ-45 connections (two in each room). Electrical, instant-on hot water heater (no tank). Graywater system to save on toilet flushes. Double-gang outlet boxes (so you can have 4 outlets, instead of 2). Air-to-Air heat exchanger (they are called many things - it replenishes stale, indoor air…
Do instant-on hot water heaters work well? What are the best brands. I'm in an apartment with a small tank that I would like to replace.
2. Put velcro on the back of your iPad and iPhone
3. http://www.apple.com/ipad/velcro/
Warning (taken from Apple's page):
"Tweet from the street at your own risk!*”
...
*Do not attempt.I ran a bundled cable containing 2 cat5 and 2 coax to each bedroom, the kitchen, my office and the family room. Even with wireless it's nice to be able to put another access point in pretty much any room. I did additional single cat5 runs to various places where I didn't think I'd need all four. Today I'm not sure the coax is still justified, but it has been handy for satellite. Now, I'd at least run several cat6 to each location and just leave it in the wall.
I ran speaker wire everywhere, every room including the garage, outside for the deck, even the laundry room. It's just sitting in the walls/ceiling in most places still, but I add a new "node" occasionally.
For the music nodes, I have a bunch of airport express units in the basement where all the wiring terminates. They're not running in wireless mode, just plugged into a gigabit switch with a single channel amp hanging off each one.
I got several of them refurb here (apple has them refurb too): http://www.cowboom.com/product/160235
These are the little amps (they have various wattages): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P2VV50
You can spend as much as you want on speakers, but I usually go for the cheap ones since they're generally just for background music anyway. That lets me put in a new node for under $150.
Here are some cheap bics that I have in a couple of rooms: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008MFIFM
Also:
- take pictures/video of all your open walls so you can find your wire - label all your wiring at both ends
If I had had more time the last time around, I would have build in a 'secret' vault that is controlled by RFID. I have an RFID chip in my hand and I'd be able to open the vault by waving my hand in front of it. You need to think this through if you want to do it, though - devise a way to unlock it mechanically, make sure it doesn't open when the power is off, etc. More mundane things: - induction cooking plates in yo…
Totally air-tight houses can be a danger as well; in my home (which is old and "breathes"), a heater once malfunctioned; when I noticed the malfunction (black accumulant around the vents) and called a technician to come check it out, the technician said that if the house had been air-tight I would likely be either severely hospitalized or dead, so sometimes a little non-air-tightness can be good, especially since it…
Modern building standards (I don't mean building codes, I mean state of the art in building engineering) says to make houses 100% air tight, but with proper ventilation systems, of course. Opening the windows and doors is not enough! CO levels will get back to 80% of their old levels in 30 minutes after closing them! Modern houses need to be continuously ventilated to achieve the highest levels of living comfort.
(PS I'm a real estate developer)
Earlier quoted context omitted.
Totally air-tight houses can be a danger as well; in my home (which is old and "breathes"), a heater once malfunctioned; when I noticed the malfunction (black accumulant around the vents) and called a technician to come check it out, the technician said that if the house had been air-tight I would likely be either severely hospitalized or dead, so sometimes a little non-air-tightness can be good, especially since it…
A home that can breath is also more comfortable. It keeps moisture in check and helps with stale air transfer.
Earlier quoted context omitted.
I wouldn't say induction cooking is a no-brainer, not everybody likes it. I rather cook on a gas stove.
Agreed, I much prefer cooking gas. Dislike induction.
Our expensive cook top was tested and branded as copper safe. It is, until water gets between the cook top and the copper pan. Also found that the rapid heat generated by an utterly imprecise dial control system could damage cookware, so I now tend to bring them to temp in two stages.
I would definitely go with gas if the line is already brought into the kitchen and available.
You can obtain Fogor induction cook tops and try them out and take them back if they don't work. Same mechanic as a full scale range. Make sure you do a double oven and if you can afford it, install a micro hood with a real vent outside the house - or your attic goods will smell like bacon in perpetuity.