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They used Xenon to climb Everest in days – is it the future of mountaineering?

nytimes.com

61–70 of 199 posts

Re: They used Xenon to climb Everest in days – is it the future of mountaineering?

#61

Xenon is used by athletes to increase their endogenous erythropoietin production. As it's a noble gas, it leaves no trace in their body, so post-hoc detection of this doping method is impossible. But as a recreational climber, why bother with xenon? Just inject EPO.

More recently it was CO use to simulate altitude training

Re: They used Xenon to climb Everest in days – is it the future of mountaineering?

#62

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Xenon acts like an anesthetic so it's possible to OD on.

True, but they did it ahead of time in a controlled way.

In a hospital with an anaesthesiologist?

Re: They used Xenon to climb Everest in days – is it the future of mountaineering?

#64
Why does mountaineering need a future? Mountaineering should just be done. Stop.

The mountains have been scaled. All of them. We've been there, website seen what's to be seen. It's done, it's over. Just leave these grandiose wonders alone rather than destroying the natural beauty in the name of an ego boost.

Re: They used Xenon to climb Everest in days – is it the future of mountaineering?

#65
I've long held that climbing Everest has become a gross display of wealth and vanity and basically nobody should do it. There's no glory in being the 4000th person to do so. It's not glamorous. You're basically climbing over trash and dead bodies to do it.

Often inexperienced people with too much money are putting themselves, their sherpas and other climbers are risk by doing so.

Using bottled oxygen already made this substantially easier. But this Xenon is on a whole new level. I went looking for the cost and found [1]:

> After a week, the Brits could be back at their desks at home. They still pay an introductory price of an undisclosed amount. In future, such a short trip to Everest will cost around 150,000 euros.

From my understanding, that's 50-100,000 more than usual. The whole thing just reeks of Oceangate.

And for what? To take a selfie at the top and to brag to you're equally vacous and wealthy friends? It would be more ethical to stay home and just Photoshop yourself into a photo. ChatGPT can probably do it for you.

Nepal is a very poor country. Being a sherpa is one of the few (locally) high paying jobs there are. Sherpas risk their lives for this. At least on K2 or Annapurna you're more likely to find experiernced and technically capable mountaineers who won't endanger your life for a selfie.

Everest is not a technically difficult climb, as far as I understand it. The death zone and general conditions make it a challenge. Negate those with Xenon and it's just a really expensive walk.

[1]: https://abenteuer-berg.de/en/with-xenon-to-mount-everest-and...

Re: They used Xenon to climb Everest in days – is it the future of mountaineering?

#66

Boss Lowe wrote about doping with xenon gas more than a decade ago: https://www.science.org/content/blog-post/another-use-xenon Also, and quite interestingly, xenon isn't the only element that does this. Cobalt does something very similar: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6157393/ Athletic use is probably more common than people think. And I'd be absolutely shocked if Xe gas weren't already being used in race…

Military divers who need to be underwater for long periods are almost certainly using rebreathers, both for the longevity and for the lack of visible & audible bubbles.

Re: They used Xenon to climb Everest in days – is it the future of mountaineering?

#67

Amazing and hilarious. Genuine technological innovation in adaptation to low oxygen. Nay-sayers say it does nothing. Guys climb Everest in a week using said innovation. You can't argue with results, so they switch to: "Himal Gautam, the director of Nepal’s tourism department, which is responsible for regulating expeditions on the nation’s mountains, said in an interview that using the gas was “against climbing ethics…

I don't know, maybe the 10 prior weeks of sleeping in hypoxic tents might have had some effect too. If they walked off the street, huffed some Xenon then blasted up Everest that'd be amazing, but it sounds like people are overfocusing on the Xenon bit.

Re: They used Xenon to climb Everest in days – is it the future of mountaineering?

#69
post #64

Why does mountaineering need a future ? Mountaineering should just be done. Stop. The mountains have been scaled. All of them. We've been there, website seen what's to be seen. It's done, it's over. Just leave these grandiose wonders alone rather than destroying the natural beauty in the name of an ego boost.

Why do anything? Better to just sit on the couch.

Re: They used Xenon to climb Everest in days – is it the future of mountaineering?

#70
post #25

Xenon is used by athletes to increase their endogenous erythropoietin production. As it's a noble gas, it leaves no trace in their body, so post-hoc detection of this doping method is impossible. But as a recreational climber, why bother with xenon? Just inject EPO.

Breathing in an inert gas is easier and much safer than injecting something into your body.

It’s inert, how bad could it be? /s
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