Earlier quoted context omitted.
I consider IPNS fundamentally broken and have stopped using it. ENS is better in almost every way and is extremely reliable so it's not that big of deal.
How can I register an ENS domain/id? I've found very little practical info on a cursory search.
You go to https://manager.ens.domains/ to register a .eth address and on the settings page for your domain you add a Content record and point it to ipfs://Qma7nxS98CAb2BTaxLJBSFozxxSp5XTu6tMtCrKcRQ9ByV or whatever the IPFS hash of your website is.
After that you can visit your site at https://myname.eth in a browser that supports ENS/IPFS or you can go to https://myname.eth.link in any browser and see your website.