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French chef asks to be stripped of three Michelin stars

theguardian.com

61–70 of 138 posts

Re: French chef asks to be stripped of three Michelin stars

#61
post #55

Earlier quoted context omitted.

The only other option is to government-mandate that, right? Not saying there aren't other unfortunate consequences of allowing a business owner to choose who they serve, but I'd say the larger problem is just that people can be... well... humans aren't great. However, putting the power in the hands of the law probably doesn't fix that. Ultimately, why would you want to support someone who doesn't want you to be there…

It surely helped to change how black people are treated in America, no government-mandate would mean "no blacks allowed" signs still hanging somewhere to this day...

Treating a part of your own society like shit is a bit different from society as a whole deciding they want less outsiders.

Re: French chef asks to be stripped of three Michelin stars

#62
post #59
post #56

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Pretty sure you can't have a "poor Michelin ranking". The restaurants that are judged poorly are not included in the listing at all.

thats not the point. for a three stars loosing a star is loosing money which means loosing quality, you can't afford to pay top notch cooks, they leave, you loose more quality, you have to lower your price, you buy cheaper products, you loose quality...

But instead, he wants to lose all three stars? There's undeniably something irrational about his request.

If he's willing to lose stars to get rid of the pressure, he can simply ignore the judges.

Re: French chef asks to be stripped of three Michelin stars

#63
post #22
post #5

Part of me wonders if he wants to be removed in protest, or if he wants to sort of exit with three stars, and not have to deal with being perceived as lower quality by losing a star. I don’t speak French, but here’s the video announcing it: https://www.facebook.com/BrasOfficiel/videos/vb.190323656659...

French speaker here. He's essentially saying: "At 46 years of age, I want to run my business the same as before (with thanks to Michelin for the acclaim they have afforded us) but without the pressure of the three stars." Totally get it, and totally agree. The meaning I take from the video: "Let us do our best without worrying about being judged every second of every day." Must be exhausting to be in that situation.…

The thing that Michelin’s review process does, though, is it pushes very heavily towards “consistent excellence”. And if you’re charging well into 3 figures for a meal, that is a reasonable expectation. If the chef opened a place where he was willing to tolerate some dishes that didn’t quite work, timing that wasn’t perfect, etc, and you could eat for $50/head, I’d be willing to tolerate misses — after all, you can go there several times for the price of one go at a big prix fixe. But one go is all most guests will ever take at that 150/head meal, and at that price point, the flawless choreography and execution is part of the package.

Re: French chef asks to be stripped of three Michelin stars

#64
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Re: French chef asks to be stripped of three Michelin stars

#65

I don't know how this works but it would be better if ratings would be for specific meals only, that way chefs wouldn't stress out trying new variations.

Excellent food starts with excellent (seasonal) ingredients. Menus can change frequently.

Re: French chef asks to be stripped of three Michelin stars

#66
I find it odd that he prefers losing all three stars over losing only one star. If he's willing to lose stars, can't he just ignore Michelin and simply cook the way he wants?

I'm reminded of Ron Blaauw, a Dutch 2-star chef who was also tired of the pressure of his 2-star fine-dining restaurant (not sure if it was Michelin or just the kind of restaurant), so he started his more informal "Gastrobar" for just a quick bite instead of Michelin-level dining, and was immediately awarded a star for it.

Re: French chef asks to be stripped of three Michelin stars

#68
post #27
post #4

He's not the only one. [1][3] In fact some places like Kyo Aji from Kenichiro Nishi - who is apparently a very good and famous chef - go as far as ban michelin tourists. Or at least try to. Just look at this discussion on chowhound [2]. Interesting comment: > Kyoaji is probably sick of rich foreigners trying to book via 5 star hotel concierges. Maybe change your strategy, and stay at a budget salaryman hotel and use…

>“Japanese food was created here, and only Japanese know it,” Mr. Kadowaki said in an interview. “How can a bunch of foreigners show up and tell us what is good or bad?” I feel like this has a xenophobic undertone to it; nobody's showing up anywhere, it's a guide which attempts to find good restaurants and food around the globe; what makes the Japanese in his view so specially qualified to judge the food? If the food…

Foreigners can say it's tasty, but local people undertand the chemistry and culture of specific ingredients and why it was choosen for a dish. That's not specific for a japan, but there is big culture around those thinking in japan. It's similar to how pop-culture-nerds can explain you every little reference in a movie or game, and explain you the history of specific genres, features and franchises. For a cook, it might be more satisfying to cook for someone who challanges him, who can talk to im on his level, instead of just catering the masses who gulp down the food and complain about nonsical things, which doesn't bring him forward.

You can call it xenophobic, it probably is, but likely it's based on real experiences.

Re: French chef asks to be stripped of three Michelin stars

#69

> You’re inspected two or three times a year, you never know when. Every meal that goes out could be inspected. That means that, every day, one of the 500 meals that leaves the kitchen could be judged. It sounds like he wants to be able to relax the quality without hurting his reputation. I can't help but to feel that it's disingenuous somehow, but maybe I'm being unreasonable.

The Michelin guide (and their readers) have fairly specific expectations for a starred restaurant. Many diners expect a Michelin-starred restaurant to provide flamboyant haute cuisine and are disappointed when they receive simple but excellent food. Restauranteurs can feel pressured to live up to the stereotype of a Michelin-starred restaurant, rather than cooking in their own style. Several restaurants have rejected…

So why not just ignore the expectations and cook what you want? If Michelin tourists have different expectations than what Michelin judges judge on, then that's the source of the problem. People shouldn't blindly go visit a restaurant with stars and expect it to be identical to other restaurants with stars.

Re: French chef asks to be stripped of three Michelin stars

#70
post #42

Earlier quoted context omitted.

He could just do what he wants anyway, and not care if he loses a couple of stars. There will be one brief period of "OMG, local 3-star restaurant lost ranking" and after that, nothing.

It's a much bigger deal for top-end restaurants than you might think. (To the detriment of the field, IMO. But I fully admit that is a debatable point.)

But if he's willing to lose all three of his stars, then surely the possibility of losing only one shouldn't be a big deal? Or does he wants to permanently have three stars without the possibility of losing them?
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