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Testing Phone-Sized Faraday Bags

mattblaze.org

51–60 of 205 posts

Re: Testing Phone-Sized Faraday Bags

#51
post #19

If you are sufficiently concerned, why not mod the phone to add a physical battery disconnect? Would this not provide 100% protection?

What if there's a capacitor inside the phone that has enough electricity inside to let the phone ping cell towers?

Depending on your occupation it can have very serious consequences.

Re: Testing Phone-Sized Faraday Bags

#52
post #33

> "Wrap it in tin foil" is perhaps the most common advice [...] Unfortunately the results were extremely inconsistent [...] 90 dB attenuation in one test would produce only 50 dB the next time [...] You would have no way to tell whether you've managed to fold and seal it adequately well On the other hand, aluminium foil is incredibly commonly available, if not in a kitchen draw, it will be at the nearest shop. Althou…

Microwave ovens make for poor Faraday cages. The problem is that you only need 30-60dB to "keep the power in" while you probably want at least 100dB to "keep the signals out."

You can test this: put your phone in the microwave and try to call it. Over the years I have had about a 75% success rate.

Other household appliances tend to be even worse; any gaps in metallic seals effectively turn into slot antennas and let signals through. You need a conductive mesh gasket to stop this, and I generally don't see mesh gaskets on consumer appliances.

Your "make an al-foil ball" strategy is what I would resort to in a pinch (I have some nice Anritsu shield boxes, but those are cheating). Quantity is a quality of its own. My only addition would be making sure that the gaps tend to not line up. You want to make it difficult for the "slot antennas" modeling the gaps in each layer to couple to each other.

Re: Testing Phone-Sized Faraday Bags

#53
post #17

Interesting results. The article states that Faraday cages are no directional. My physics 101 understanding of them was otherwise. You show they work by integrating over the surface of the cage and saying that's equal to the charge within the surface. But you don't say it's equal to the charge outside. Indeed it couldn't possible, since that charge could be light-years away and steady state would never be achieved. N…

If you consider the compactification of R^3 by a single point “at infinity”, an electric charge inside the surface is the same as the opposite charge at infinity (this is just Gauss’ result). In that sense, “infinity” acts as the opposite charge, does it not?

I do not understand your question, otherwise.

(Not a criticism, just an interested comment which may be very wrong though).

Re: Testing Phone-Sized Faraday Bags

#54
post #33

> "Wrap it in tin foil" is perhaps the most common advice [...] Unfortunately the results were extremely inconsistent [...] 90 dB attenuation in one test would produce only 50 dB the next time [...] You would have no way to tell whether you've managed to fold and seal it adequately well On the other hand, aluminium foil is incredibly commonly available, if not in a kitchen draw, it will be at the nearest shop. Althou…

Microwave-ovens definitely don't leak below 2.4 GHz. Any frequency above that is a non-issue for microwave-oven operator safety. It also wouldn't be an issue for any communication device transmitting below 2.4 GHz. If you want to shut down 5 GHz communication then a microwave-oven would be leaky. 60 GHz: it shouldn't matter since it needs LoS anyway. Also, remember to ground your faraday cages.

> ground your faraday cages.

Why?

Re: Testing Phone-Sized Faraday Bags

#55

Earlier quoted context omitted.

The metal tin box will have had varnish and paint on it's surfaces. That means at the junction between the tin and the lid (and maybe other joins), there isn't an electrical connection all along. Having two metal surfaces next to eachother, but with an insulator in between, acts like a 'choke flange'[1]. However, they only work at one specific frequency - at all other frequencies they will leak either a little signal…

That's interesting! As far as improvised faraday cages go, I always heard that microwave ovens are a good solution. Does this mean that microwave ovens wouldn't be any better as they would only block the specific microwave frequency they're designed for?

Correct. In fact, you can easily verify this by putting a phone in an unpowered microwave and calling it. It'll usually get both 4G (frequencies range, but 800Mhz in my area) and Wifi (over 5GHz).

Re: Testing Phone-Sized Faraday Bags

#56

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Microwave-ovens definitely don't leak below 2.4 GHz. Any frequency above that is a non-issue for microwave-oven operator safety. It also wouldn't be an issue for any communication device transmitting below 2.4 GHz. If you want to shut down 5 GHz communication then a microwave-oven would be leaky. 60 GHz: it shouldn't matter since it needs LoS anyway. Also, remember to ground your faraday cages.

> ground your faraday cages. Why?

I assume for the same reason you ground your home, building up charges is a great way for Bad Things to happen.

Re: Testing Phone-Sized Faraday Bags

#57
This is a super cool blog post. However I think it alludes to a much larger problem. For many products today, it’s very difficult or impossible for most people to verify the product works.

For a network switch, there are free and open source tools like iPerf to test and verify speeds are as advertised. For a faraday box, you have to go through all these steps (and knowledge learned) just to be able to test these. What about for vitamins, or pet food, or any other “durable” products that are supposed to last for X years?

In an age of snake oil salesmen, paid for reviewers, and fraudulent products on Amazon, there is a real opportunity for creating systems that enable individuals to verify products do what the sellers claim they do.

Re: Testing Phone-Sized Faraday Bags

#59
post #27

I wish it covered (so to speak) aluminum foil more thoroughly. In particular, foil is cheap, so rolling up in several layers (3? 5? 10?) and twisting the ends cracker-style ought to be more reliable and practical than trying to do it with one layer and fiddly seams. A suggested minimum number of layers and number of twists would be useful.

I was hoping for this test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2u6KdHmoMbw
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