51–60 of 129 posts
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If you draw a venn diagram for jocks, hippies and nerds, the point where the three circles intersect is where you find climbers.
Frank Sacherer worked at CERN: http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/tnb-forgotten-hero-fran...
Hans Kraus was JFK's back doctor (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hans_Kraus)
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What kind of strength does one have to have on the finger to be able to hold himself with just the tip? I have always wondered. I only saw climbing scenes in movies and have always wondered if people actually are able to work with such little grip and it seems they are. So for such climbing do they use earlier runs to put the rings (whatever they are call) for the safety lines during the actual climb?
In general, when you see a climber bearing down on a tiny crimp that fits the very tip of just one finger, seeming to support his body weight on it, that is exactly what is happening. His feet will be on holds that are considerably worse. The amazing thing is that if you apply yourself to climbing and train for a few years, you will be able to move off similar holds in similar positions. It's a pretty cool feeling.
Earlier quoted context omitted.
What kind of strength does one have to have on the finger to be able to hold himself with just the tip? I have always wondered. I only saw climbing scenes in movies and have always wondered if people actually are able to work with such little grip and it seems they are. So for such climbing do they use earlier runs to put the rings (whatever they are call) for the safety lines during the actual climb?
In general, when you see a climber bearing down on a tiny crimp that fits the very tip of just one finger, seeming to support his body weight on it, that is exactly what is happening. His feet will be on holds that are considerably worse. The amazing thing is that if you apply yourself to climbing and train for a few years, you will be able to move off similar holds in similar positions. It's a pretty cool feeling.
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It's also worth mentioning that 95% of the Nose can be free-climbed by just about anyone that really trains for it. It's hard, but it's not that hard. The Dawn Wall, in contrast, is basically off limits for your average free climber -- especially the middle pitches -- unless you're among the best of the very best. You can check out the topos for each climb. This is the nose ( http://www.supertopo.com/topos/yosemite/t…
Wow, I haven't even seen a 14b on an actual gym wall; I have absolutely no idea of how hard it is compared to a 11-12
Earlier quoted context omitted.
What kind of strength does one have to have on the finger to be able to hold himself with just the tip? I have always wondered. I only saw climbing scenes in movies and have always wondered if people actually are able to work with such little grip and it seems they are. So for such climbing do they use earlier runs to put the rings (whatever they are call) for the safety lines during the actual climb?
There's just one safety line (it's called the lead line) and it runs through -- in the video you watch -- quickdraws (or slings with carabiners) that hang on bolts. On other pitches of climbing, it runs through different types of protection: cams, nuts, pitons, and what's called "fixed mank." And yes, the bolts here were originally installed earlier, possibly back in 70s by the first ascensionist, although I'm not su…
Do you mean that if people put in bolts that it might somehow dilute the climb?
That is fucking amazing. I can't even comprehend what it must be like to be living on that wall for eight days (let alone 19 or 28). The mental and emotional state it must put you in...
You might be interested in the ascent of "Wings of Steel" which originally took Mark Smith and Richard Jensen 39 days, later also completed by Ammon McNeely and Kait Barber. The first ascent team had to deal with a lot of problems too. Not only less modern gear, but open and dangerous hostility from some of the local climbing community.
http://www.snagfilms.com/films/title/assault_on_el_capitan
http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/el-caps-hardest-wings-o...
http://gripped.com/news/dec-16-2011-top-climber-confesses-to...
How it compares to what Alex Honnold achieved on The Nose? Difficulty or size is different?
http://www.mensjournal.com/adventure/races-sports/alex-honno...
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There's just one safety line (it's called the lead line) and it runs through -- in the video you watch -- quickdraws (or slings with carabiners) that hang on bolts. On other pitches of climbing, it runs through different types of protection: cams, nuts, pitons, and what's called "fixed mank." And yes, the bolts here were originally installed earlier, possibly back in 70s by the first ascensionist, although I'm not su…
I'm very interested now in what these ethical considerations would be. Do you mean that if people put in bolts that it might somehow dilute the climb?
Plug for Valley Uprising (on Netflix) if you're interested in climbing. The progression of difficulty and (mostly friendly and supportive) competition between climbers is inspiring. Amazing feat! PS: Would be happy to take anyone else's recommendations for videos or books too.
edu marin from spain is also very good climber, I've found mostly shorter videos for all of these.