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I recently got into climbing (+ bouldering). Although I get super bored at regular gyms, I never bore of climbing, I think, because it's like programming -- for the body. Problem solving applied to an element that is both sociable and physical.
Earlier quoted context omitted.
Having seen a national level competition up close and personal (and seen very good boulderers do V13+ on real rock), the most impressive thing to experience is their sheer determination. Yes, you can tell they are trying hard when watching a video, but it's just different seeing it in person.
I totally agree. One of the spider monkey's at my gym explained that my basic 'problem' was I can't will myself to deploy more force when I need. I asked how to fix that and he kinda shrugged and just said 'I mean you just pull harder'. That was disheartening.
Simply knowing that I "can" do thing that I did not think I could do has opened up a variety of possibilities.
I dunno if it is any help, but I find that pre-visualization immediately before starting helps immensely.
I'm the founder and organizer of the Bouldering in Austin meetup. We are a little over a year old and recently surpassed 500 members. If any Austinites want to try it out, either as beginners or experienced climbers, give me a holler. :) https://www.meetup.com/Bouldering-in-Austin/
I recently got into climbing (+ bouldering). Although I get super bored at regular gyms, I never bore of climbing, I think, because it's like programming -- for the body. Problem solving applied to an element that is both sociable and physical.
Earlier quoted context omitted.
Bouldering is as easy as you want it to be. The easiest routes are doable by people with no experience or much strength.
It seems to me that the learning curve is much more of a precipice, no? Of all the gym bouldering problems, only a few are rated for absolute beginners - the rest are much harder. Even the V-grade of, "0" is compared roughly to a 5.10 roped climb. In at least my bouldering space, you'll simply run out of things to do, quickly, as a beginner. It may be also where I train, as the gym isn't one specifically geared towar…
In case anyone isn't already familiar with indoor bouldering, here's a great competition video: https://youtu.be/uHlV_nLLXLc?t=49 Cannot recommend bouldering enough. Problem-solving minds tend to love it.
I'd recommend anyone curious about bouldering get into simply top rope climbing first. Bouldering is HARD which isn't so much the real problem, but it can also be frustrating. Some problem solving strategies like throwing yourself into the problem (metaphorically)can result in nasty injuries and a short bouldering career. Get some easy climbing mileage!
It's as hard as you want it to be.
Here in Fontainebleau, there are bouldering circuits in the forest set for the level of our three year old. (Seriously. Painted with little pink hearts next to the arrows).
They get used, too. Even for me, climbing pretty hard these days, I'll often run off and do an easy Blue or even easier Orange circuit just for the joy of movement over 40-80 nice problems, few of which would even get a V0 if you translated the grade across.
The difficulty scale goes as far as you want in either direction.
I think this article doesn't really explain what the setters are focusing on here, and it's actually quite interesting. When setting for a bouldering competition, the problems you create must satisfy very precise constraints: namely, create good separation between competitors, but still be entertaining for spectators. Separation is the hard part. In finals you have a handful of competitors doing a handful of problems…
How do you attain this? From an amateur hobbyist eye it seems that bouldering as a sport favours lean + tall builds -> Reach + light-weight advantage. How do you set routes that disadvantage this type?
Earlier quoted context omitted.
I totally agree. One of the spider monkey's at my gym explained that my basic 'problem' was I can't will myself to deploy more force when I need. I asked how to fix that and he kinda shrugged and just said 'I mean you just pull harder'. That was disheartening.
If it is any consolation, I am 3 months into returning to climbing after a 15 year hiatus.... I feel that this "push harder" thing is a feeling that can be learned. Like, when I am moving at near the limits of what I can do, I've been finding that I can just trust my body to do certain things that I don't think it can do (mostly having to do with pulling on very smooth slopers or feeling my feet doing way more pullin…
The weird revelation for me was that getting that old strength back is a matter of remembering it, it's memory work. There was this boulder problem I was working on, and I couldn't even stick to the holds, so I used some jugs to ease myself into position, and for the first couple seconds I could barely hang on, but then suddenly it got easier, and it was my muscles remembering how to fire the way they needed to hold on. It's akin maybe to a guitar player who hasn't strummed in a while remembering how to strike a particular chord, it's a little bit of struggle but then it all comes flooding back.
On my first day back I was having a hard time with 5.8, and wondering to myself "Am I a beginner climber again? Do I need to build everything up again from scratch?", but after only 6 weeks I'm pulling 5.12a moves again here and there. I'm pretty impressed with myself, though I'm still a long way from my previous high water mark.
I think this article doesn't really explain what the setters are focusing on here, and it's actually quite interesting. When setting for a bouldering competition, the problems you create must satisfy very precise constraints: namely, create good separation between competitors, but still be entertaining for spectators. Separation is the hard part. In finals you have a handful of competitors doing a handful of problems…
> preferably without depending on height/reach or overly specific strengths. How do you attain this? From an amateur hobbyist eye it seems that bouldering as a sport favours lean + tall builds -> Reach + light-weight advantage. How do you set routes that disadvantage this type?
I think this article doesn't really explain what the setters are focusing on here, and it's actually quite interesting. When setting for a bouldering competition, the problems you create must satisfy very precise constraints: namely, create good separation between competitors, but still be entertaining for spectators. Separation is the hard part. In finals you have a handful of competitors doing a handful of problems…
> preferably without depending on height/reach or overly specific strengths. How do you attain this? From an amateur hobbyist eye it seems that bouldering as a sport favours lean + tall builds -> Reach + light-weight advantage. How do you set routes that disadvantage this type?
Short folk have incredible strength to weight ratios and fine motor control from short levers. Tall people can reach farther, but can't apply the necessary force or use tiny holds as well. It all evens out in the long run, though you'll see big differences for individual lines that target a single style.
My wife and I climb at the same level despite a foot of height difference. She stays away from my long throws and compression problems. I try not to feel the tiny crimps on her projects, and it all works out in the end.