301–310 of 496 posts
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This is all fantastic info. I have included the details and a link to these comments at the bottom of the post. Great work!
Tip: Instead of soldering I use splicing connectors with levers for testing stuff like this out. For example: https://www.wago.com/de-en/c/installation-terminal-blocks-an...
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I made my daughter’s bed from scratch out of anger and spite toward IKEA.
I have some freak brain (and IKEA experience) which usually let's me do IKEA pretty well. What was it that happened in your case? I'm curious what brought you to that point.
I just got done (mostly) reassembling a wardrobe. It's a bit more wobbly around the edges. I'm not sure if it's because I didn't put the shelves back in the exact spots (wasn't thinking and didn't label them during disassembly) or if it's something else, but once we decide it's not good enough for the room upstairs where it now lives, it's getting put in the dumpster.
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You're both missing one of the more likely explanation.. that nobody gave much thought about how long the device would last. "It's solid state electronics, it'll probably outlast the warranty anyway".. I can imagine an aircon company puts a lot of effort into analyzing the air-conditioning unit itself to make sure it lasts at least as long as the warranty, with good margin. But I can totally see them winging it on an…
Never attribute to laziness or stupidity that which is adequately explained by the profit motive.
I had a similar situation with my shutter blinds. The company wanted €500 to install a "smart hub" to enable voice control instead of their little remote. To hell with that, I ordered a couple of servos and an esp8266 and 3d printed some little fingers that would press the buttons on the remote and added the whole thing to HomeAssistant via ESPHome. Cost me less than €30.
It's really pleasing to me how the "analogue loophole" continues to work. Previously, recording music through the Line Out, or what have you. Now, using a robot to press the supplied remote. It's delightful.
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What is the risk here?
Consider the following scenario: 1. Someone owns one of these systems which is functioning perfectly well. 2. They stumble across a link allowing them to download the controller app, and so they install it on their normal tablet, expecting to be able to control the system from their tablet 3a. It doesn't work, so they contact technical support. Technical support wastes a bunch of time before figuring out why the app…
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I think home EV charging equipment is heading in the same direction as well. Very few have local and open APIs and instead depend on the vendors cloud service for control.
I don't know where you live, but in Europe there is a standardized backoffice management protocol that you can link up to basically anything in modern chargers. Except the cheapest of the cheapest. I have mine running through EVCC.io, setting it up was as simple as throwing that thing in a docker container and figuring out the IP address of the chargepoint.
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This is from my earlier notes, hope it helps some. Pin 1: RS422 +/B Pin 2: RS422 -/A Pin 3: ? - appears to be unused; connected to unpopulated pad on PCB Pin 4: GND Pin 5: ~14.2v DC unloaded Pin 6: GND Pin 7: ? Pin 8: ? Shield: GND Note: the RS422 protocol has a basic bus arbitration built-in to allow both ends to communicate. The control unit sends Ping messages, after which it opens a slot for the Tablet to communi…
Wouldn't RS422 need 2 TX and 2 RX?
1 is RS422 B
2 is RS422 A
3 & 5 - GND
4 & 6 - VCC
Not sure what 7 and 8 do.
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This is from my earlier notes, hope it helps some. Pin 1: RS422 +/B Pin 2: RS422 -/A Pin 3: ? - appears to be unused; connected to unpopulated pad on PCB Pin 4: GND Pin 5: ~14.2v DC unloaded Pin 6: GND Pin 7: ? Pin 8: ? Shield: GND Note: the RS422 protocol has a basic bus arbitration built-in to allow both ends to communicate. The control unit sends Ping messages, after which it opens a slot for the Tablet to communi…
Wouldn't RS422 need 2 TX and 2 RX?
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The thing in the article is a thermostat-zone controller system, where the tablet is part of the multi-zone controller, and there aren't really separate thermostats. In the US, it's common that the input to each zone controller is just a open/close contact, so in the worst case you can call for heat by shorting the right wires together. I have a smart thermostat that I use the provided app to control, but one of the…
> (so if they totally ruin the app or turn off the server or whatever, there's a way out) It's not impossible that when this happens, they'd also first push out an update to disable the http server.