I'd strongly recommend looking into 3d printing these. You could pretty easily 3d print a plastic version of the connector itself (and shell, if male), then add aluminum tape to the inside if you need EMF protection. Then you just pop in pins (which you can get at Fry's by the hundred for a couple bucks), and you have a finished connector. A few hundred dollars in setup and you're done, with a unit cost of under a do…
None of the low-end 3D printers could hold the tolerances needed. Even a Form 1 isn't that precise. Connector tolerances are very tight. That's why intermittent electrical connections are mostly a thing of the past.
The $11185 Connector
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Re: The $11185 Connector
#32Check Amazon...
1 wrench $6
100 wrenches $12
I now have a box of 100 allen wrenches all the same size.
Re: The $11185 Connector
#33This just reminds me. I wanted to buy a couple of extra allen wrenches for my camera tripod just so I could put them in various bags and hopefully never be without one. Check Amazon... 1 wrench $6 100 wrenches $12 I now have a box of 100 allen wrenches all the same size.
Re: The $11185 Connector
#34Or maybe I'm just a packrat.
Re: The $11185 Connector
#35Earlier quoted context omitted.
Yeah and my cousin Vinny can get you a better deal, too bad you aren't family.
> Yeah and my cousin Vinny can get you a better deal, too bad you aren't family. I can appreciate your sarcasm here, but it's not constructive and doesn't change the economics of custom fabrication. These factories don't sit around waiting to get small-time jobs to fab a handful of some custom components.
[edit] Even easier would be finding out what material the insert is made of and getting the connectors milled to shape and drilled for the contacts. Fun problem!
Steve, are you listening :-)
Re: The $11185 Connector
#36This just reminds me. I wanted to buy a couple of extra allen wrenches for my camera tripod just so I could put them in various bags and hopefully never be without one. Check Amazon... 1 wrench $6 100 wrenches $12 I now have a box of 100 allen wrenches all the same size.
Re: The $11185 Connector
#37Earlier quoted context omitted.
> Yeah and my cousin Vinny can get you a better deal, too bad you aren't family. I can appreciate your sarcasm here, but it's not constructive and doesn't change the economics of custom fabrication. These factories don't sit around waiting to get small-time jobs to fab a handful of some custom components.
You make a good point, though. The shell size (DB) is the same and you can purchase shells separately. The problem devolves to getting the contacts (it's a standard item you can buy easily) and molding a custom insert. For small quantities, it seems like he could do it himself. The mold shouldn't be difficult to make. [edit] Even easier would be finding out what material the insert is made of and getting the connecto…
Re: The $11185 Connector
#38The title is very misleading... it's not an $11,185 connector, that's the price of setting up custom tooling for this component. After-which the factory quoted a very reasonable $0.13 per piece. The author went into this stating he'd be willing to pay for their tooling... then is sticker-shocked when they quote him for so. It's like the author went into this thinking they'd pay a few hundred bucks (for the custom too…
Since you seem to be familiar with this sort of thing, what is the best way to find a fab if not going to Alibaba?
Re: The $11185 Connector
#39A quick search suggests that they're still made: http://www.connectworld.net/cgi-bin/rrdata/DB19FS (female) http://www.connectworld.net/cgi-bin/rrdata/DB19MS (male)
http://www.bigmessowires.com/2015/01/28/in-search-of-the-elu...
Re: The $11185 Connector
#40Earlier quoted context omitted.
None of the low-end 3D printers could hold the tolerances needed. Even a Form 1 isn't that precise. Connector tolerances are very tight. That's why intermittent electrical connections are mostly a thing of the past.
I regularly print tighter tolerances with an FDM printer (modified Makerbot Replicator 2). D-sub connectors just aren't that tight; if you were printing the pins themselves, it'd be different, but the plastic side of things is not an issue at all.
Getting a longer D-sub connector and machining the plastic down is more likely to work. 3D printing isn't magic.