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Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil (2012)

theguardian.com

31–40 of 95 posts

Re: Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil (2012)

#31
post #23

Does anyone have any tips for finding quality olive oil? The only way I've had success is to buy inexpensive single-source stuff, even if it's inexpensive and non-Italian. Best olive oils I've had were single-sourced from Spain; $2 from a discount store. Maybe no-one wants to fake non-Italian oil?

Best olive oil is Greek. Italian or Spanish ones are nowhere near the quality of Greek. In Greece more than 80% of total production is extra virgin while in Italy the percentage is less than 40% and in Spain 20%. Italians buy bulk olive oil from Greece and they mix it with their own oils to raise the quality. There are small brands that offer high quality extra virgin oil and I guess you could look some of them at yo…

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Re: Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil (2012)

#32

Does anyone have any tips for finding quality olive oil? The only way I've had success is to buy inexpensive single-source stuff, even if it's inexpensive and non-Italian. Best olive oils I've had were single-sourced from Spain; $2 from a discount store. Maybe no-one wants to fake non-Italian oil?

Well we came across Lucero [1] at a farmer's market, they are a California company, and drove up to their factory and did the tour. It isn't European or African oil but we like it.

[1] http://www.lucerooliveoil.com/

Re: Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil (2012)

#33

There are many kinds of olive varieties, some of them growing in the span of one or two towns. Saying it is supposed to taste like this or like that without saying from which kind of olives it was made sounds kind of nonsensical. Another matter is that of honesty. Italy is known to export more olive oil than it produces and it is buying production from quite a lot of towns in my country and then mixing it and packagi…

Here in the link you can see for each label of origin they list which varities of olives are more common:

http://www.worldsofflavorspain.com/node/385

(arbequina is a most common variety and more spicy in the aftertaste, but as you can see, like with wine, different varieties produce so different results that talking in generics is rather uneducated).

Re: Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil (2012)

#34

There are many kinds of olive varieties, some of them growing in the span of one or two towns. Saying it is supposed to taste like this or like that without saying from which kind of olives it was made sounds kind of nonsensical. Another matter is that of honesty. Italy is known to export more olive oil than it produces and it is buying production from quite a lot of towns in my country and then mixing it and packagi…

Supermarket olive oil of any price is only suitable for frying Yeah, yeah. and both the [eminent] foodies gave a thumbs-up to Unilever's much-derided Bertolli brand. Same as with wine. It's just a fruit and the variations from its production simply aren't as great as people like to think. Anyway, the best fat comes from bacon.

I'm just saying how we do it in my oil producing town. The oil you get from your production or from a town producer in the local mill is for salads, toasts, etc. Oil bought in packs of 3-5l in the supermarket (extra-virgin brands) is what we use for frying.

It is so much like that, that now that I live abroad I'm flying with 8l packs of my town's oil at least twice a year.

Re: Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil (2012)

#35

Does anyone have any tips for finding quality olive oil? The only way I've had success is to buy inexpensive single-source stuff, even if it's inexpensive and non-Italian. Best olive oils I've had were single-sourced from Spain; $2 from a discount store. Maybe no-one wants to fake non-Italian oil?

I've been buying California Olive Ranch oil for a while, after reading this: http://www.nytimes.com/2011/10/19/dining/californias-olive-o... . It's about $16 – $17 for 750ml or about $20 – $21 for 1 liter. That's more expensive than generic olive oil but less expensive than many of the alternatives.

Re: Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil (2012)

#36
For more on this, see the New Yorker's 2007 article "Slippery Business: The trade in adulterated olive oil" at http://www.newyorker.com/reporting/2007/08/13/070813fa_fact_....

I'm surprised "they" haven't worked to further regulate the field; apparently one problem is that developing chemical tests to reliably discern real from fake olive oil is very difficult.

Re: Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil (2012)

#37
post #23

Does anyone have any tips for finding quality olive oil? The only way I've had success is to buy inexpensive single-source stuff, even if it's inexpensive and non-Italian. Best olive oils I've had were single-sourced from Spain; $2 from a discount store. Maybe no-one wants to fake non-Italian oil?

Best olive oil is Greek. Italian or Spanish ones are nowhere near the quality of Greek. In Greece more than 80% of total production is extra virgin while in Italy the percentage is less than 40% and in Spain 20%. Italians buy bulk olive oil from Greece and they mix it with their own oils to raise the quality. There are small brands that offer high quality extra virgin oil and I guess you could look some of them at yo…

Seconding this. It also tastes somewhat different, which is a matter of preference admittedly. I personally love the typical flavor of oil from Kalamata olives, which makes up a large part of the Greek-labeled production (i.e. bottled as Greek olive oil, rather than exported for blending).

Greek marketing and distribution has been poor, however, and very slowly improving. The traditional place to buy it in the U.S. has been in 5-liter tins at Mediterranean grocery stores catering to immigrants (depending on the region, these might be "Greek", "Lebanese", "Turkish", or "Arab" supermarkets). These are a great deal, especially if you cook with it, but off the radar of most regular shoppers. Lately I have been seeing it in smaller bottles in normal grocery stores more often. Trader Joe's now has a house brand of 100% Greek Kalamata olive oil, which they buy in bulk and bottle, and is very good for the price.

This is one thing the Italians got way out front of the Greeks on. Both Italians and Greeks at home will not typically buy small glass bottles of olive oil; the 5-L tin is the typical container. Partly that's because it's used in cooking, not just to sprinkle on salads or pasta. Especially in Greece and southern Italy, it's the main cooking fat, since butter, lard, canola oil, sunflower-seed oil, etc. are not widely used. But Italians realized that selling smaller bottles to the boutique export market was a good business, while Greeks only realized later that there was this market for premium-priced oil in a 500-mL bottle, aimed at people who use it for smaller-volume things (i.e. not for cooking imam baildi or French fries).

It does last a long time, though, so if you want a good deal, find your local Mediterranean market and pick up a tin, then transfer portions to a more convenient bottle with a funnel. Kept in a cool, dark place, you should get several years of shelf life.

edit: Everywhere I said 5-L above, substitute 3-L. Misremembered the size. The tins are rectangular and look like this: http://www.thegoodfoodnetwork.com/shop/images/26713/Iliada-p...

Re: Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil (2012)

#38

Anyone know a good olive oil obtainable in NYC? (I'd rather not pay huge shipping fees for some of the other things listed here.)

The Union Square Whole Foods has a good selection. See also this comment: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=6162695.

Re: Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil (2012)

#39
post #9

Fairway in the NY area has an olive oil bar with about dozen varieties and bread for dipping. Most are domestic and labelled as such. The nuance in flavor is easily detectable. I find most supermarket brands taste about the same. The olive taste is so distinct you'd never confuse it for canola, corn or anything else.

There's a fantastic olive oil store in Downtown Denver as well.

Re: Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil (2012)

#40

Anyone know a good olive oil obtainable in NYC? (I'd rather not pay huge shipping fees for some of the other things listed here.)

If you are okay with Greek olive oil (and you probably should be) go over to Astoria and visit one of the Greek supermarkets.

E.g. http://www.titanfoods.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT&Store...

Actual Italian immigrants are scare on the ground these days, so I'm not convinced you'd see anything particularly unique in e.g. the Arthur Avenue section of the Bronx. But I could be wrong.

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