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Unlocking a Gary TL-15 Round-Door Safe (2009)

locksmithledger.com

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Re: Unlocking a Gary TL-15 Round-Door Safe (2009)

#31

Post by buildsjets »

Kirby64 wrote: post #24
chiph wrote: post #21

I was surprised to read that they filled their hole with old carbide drill bit tips and J-B Weld (a two-part epoxy). I was expecting it to be welded closed.

Likely stronger than welding against drilling. Weld bead is generally pretty easy to drill through. Carbide drill bits you’d need diamond to cut through. Sure you could cut through the JB weld, but you’ll obliterate your drill bits as soon as you hit the carbide.

JB Weld is a run of the mill 2-part organic epoxy, heating it up to 250F is plenty more than enough to dig it out with a shanghai-grade screwdriver from Harbor Freight.

Re: Unlocking a Gary TL-15 Round-Door Safe (2009)

#32

Post by anfractuosity »

Has anyone come across safe autodialers that don't just make use of bruteforce?

Regarding electronic safe locks, I found the following videos really fascinating

* https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXFpCV646E0 - Side channel attacks on high security electronic safe locks

* https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viU8Qs1Sccg - No Mas How Side Channel Flaw Opens ATM Pharmacies and Gov to Attack

Re: Unlocking a Gary TL-15 Round-Door Safe (2009)

#33

Post by Kirby64 »

buildsjets wrote: post #31
Kirby64 wrote: post #24

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Likely stronger than welding against drilling. Weld bead is generally pretty easy to drill through. Carbide drill bits you’d need diamond to cut through. Sure you could cut through the JB weld, but you’ll obliterate your drill bits as soon as you hit the carbide.

JB Weld is a run of the mill 2-part organic epoxy, heating it up to 250F is plenty more than enough to dig it out with a shanghai-grade screwdriver from Harbor Freight.

You sure about that? J-B Weld claims its resistant to a constant temperature of 500F, and 10 mins of 600F. With the heatsinking of the steel body nearby, it'd be quite difficult to melt out the epoxy. Not impossible, mind you, but... this isn't intended to be a bulletproof fix, I assume. Why would a would-be thief even think there's epoxy there in the first place?

Re: Unlocking a Gary TL-15 Round-Door Safe (2009)

#34

Post by buildsjets »

Kirby64 wrote: post #33
buildsjets wrote: post #31

Earlier quoted context omitted.

JB Weld is a run of the mill 2-part organic epoxy, heating it up to 250F is plenty more than enough to dig it out with a shanghai-grade screwdriver from Harbor Freight.

You sure about that? J-B Weld claims its resistant to a constant temperature of 500F, and 10 mins of 600F. With the heatsinking of the steel body nearby, it'd be quite difficult to melt out the epoxy. Not impossible, mind you, but... this isn't intended to be a bulletproof fix, I assume. Why would a would-be thief even think there's epoxy there in the first place?

The hubris around here. Yes, I’m sure about that.

You are a person who is easily manipulated by marketing, and clearly has zero practical experience in this field. I do. There are no epoxys that are good to 500F. None of them. See username, Buildsjets. The epoxy resins that we build jets out of are cured in an autoclave under high pressure, and at best they are good to 350F, and they are absolutely the highest performing epoxy resins you can buy from the likes of Hexcel, Toray, and other industrial companies that do not distribute though Home Depot. To go higher than 350 you need to go to more exotic and toxic resin systems like Bismaelemide, and we don’t like to do that because they are ITAR restricted, so we could not tell our foreign customers how to repair their aircraft when they broke. Dispose-a-plane.

If JB weld were actually good to 500F, we would be building aircraft parts out of it. But, if it were actually good to 500F, it would be ITAR controlled and Bubbas would not be able to buy it at Home Depot.

To your comment about difficulty of removal, JB weld does not melt. No epoxys melt. They are thermosets, not a thermoplastics. But it degrades at around 250f to the point where you can pick it apart with a mild steel pick. I know, because I have done it. The heat-sinking effect of the surrounding steel is negligible when compared to a 3,500F MAPP torch flame directly impinging on the epoxy.

Re: Unlocking a Gary TL-15 Round-Door Safe (2009)

#35

Post by waltwalther »

hagbard_c wrote: post #14
doug_durham wrote: post #13

I don't think I've ever encountered such an over-monetized site. Every square mm of space has an ad. Then pop ups will spontaneously cover existing ads. I can't even find the content.

Install a content blocker - uBlock Origin on a browser which does not try to thwart its purposes, i.e. Firefox or similar - and you won't see a single ad or pop-up on that site.

This. I can't remember the last time I noticed an ad of any sort, including on the link here.

Re: Unlocking a Gary TL-15 Round-Door Safe (2009)

#36

Post by exmadscientist »

buildsjets wrote: post #34
Kirby64 wrote: post #33

Earlier quoted context omitted.

You sure about that? J-B Weld claims its resistant to a constant temperature of 500F, and 10 mins of 600F. With the heatsinking of the steel body nearby, it'd be quite difficult to melt out the epoxy. Not impossible, mind you, but... this isn't intended to be a bulletproof fix, I assume. Why would a would-be thief even think there's epoxy there in the first place?

The hubris around here. Yes, I’m sure about that. You are a person who is easily manipulated by marketing, and clearly has zero practical experience in this field. I do. There are no epoxys that are good to 500F. None of them. See username, Buildsjets. The epoxy resins that we build jets out of are cured in an autoclave under high pressure, and at best they are good to 350F, and they are absolutely the highest perfor…

Yep, most of them crap out right around 350°F. Many of the circuit board epoxy resins go a little higher, but not much, and I presume they have their own issues for composite layups. They're certainly not structural adhesives.

The highest temperature ordinary structural epoxy adhesive I know of is Lord 310, which claims to be good to 400°F (205°C). No idea if it's any good though, that project went another path so we never opened the tube I bought.

Re: Unlocking a Gary TL-15 Round-Door Safe (2009)

#38

Post by avidiax »

mrb wrote: post #11

I once bought a vacation home that was a century-old English cottage that went through 7 different owners over time. It once belonged to a US state senator. Another time it belonged to a prominent local businessman who went to jail for white collar crime, and went through a nasty divorce. Anyway, the house had a TL-15 Star Safe embedded in the wall in the master bedroom. The previous owner did not know the combinatio…

Everyone always says it was empty :)

If it contained $100,000 in cash, the smart thing to do is say it was empty.

Re: Unlocking a Gary TL-15 Round-Door Safe (2009)

#39

Post by [deleted] »

buildsjets wrote: post #34
Kirby64 wrote: post #33

Earlier quoted context omitted.

You sure about that? J-B Weld claims its resistant to a constant temperature of 500F, and 10 mins of 600F. With the heatsinking of the steel body nearby, it'd be quite difficult to melt out the epoxy. Not impossible, mind you, but... this isn't intended to be a bulletproof fix, I assume. Why would a would-be thief even think there's epoxy there in the first place?

The hubris around here. Yes, I’m sure about that. You are a person who is easily manipulated by marketing, and clearly has zero practical experience in this field. I do. There are no epoxys that are good to 500F. None of them. See username, Buildsjets. The epoxy resins that we build jets out of are cured in an autoclave under high pressure, and at best they are good to 350F, and they are absolutely the highest perfor…

[deleted]

Re: Unlocking a Gary TL-15 Round-Door Safe (2009)

#40

Post by at_a_remove »

I have not one but two safes I've inherited which I ought to get opened. My thinking is that both safes would not be empty, as you can store as much emptiness as you like in a single safe.

I should figure out where to begin, do I bring the safes to the locksmiths, how are the safes disposed of, et al? It should be interesting.

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