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Duct Size vs. Airflow (2012)

russellking.me

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Re: Duct Size vs. Airflow (2012)

#31
post #29

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Is there a good ERV design that is suitable for one room, e.g. the ERV equivalent of a window air conditioner?

I put a Fantech SE704N in my WFH shed, which is 10x20 feet with 6-7 foot ceilings: Newer ERV: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Fantech-FIT70E-SE-Series-Energy-... In stock HRV: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Fantech-SH704-SH-Series-Heat-Rec... You can buy the core and swap HRV->ERV (not sure if FIT70E uses the same core). I put it behind a Lutron Caseta Fan Speed controller, it struggles a bit to communicate due to range, bu…

Oh, and to add, pre-installation the CO2 would hover around 2500ppm if the door and window were closed which was definitely noticeable.

Re: Duct Size vs. Airflow (2012)

#32

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I found it inordinately difficult to get humidity to a stable point in Canadian winters, because practically no homes are designed with relative humidity in mind.

Houses are designed to control/shed moisture, not control humidity. It's fairly inexpensive get a standalone dehumidifier and just set a humidity target.

A house usually has several rooms. And in Canada humidification demands are much higher in wintertime then dehumidification in summertime.

So your looking at literally dozens of humidifiers and dehumidifiers to maintain the optimal 40% to 60% range at all times in the average sized house.

Re: Duct Size vs. Airflow (2012)

#33
I am in Houston and AC is a necessity. Most residential AC guys here are awful- they can make a killing in the hot seasons for simple calls to replace a $30 run capacitors on compressors (very common failure, often encouraged by power blips). Most of them do not fully understand duct design and many will pass on jobs to re-do ducts if they can since it is more profitable to focus on break-fix type calls. Because of this, I had to learn about AC systems and duct design myself. Here are some things I have learned which are not often mentioned: - Intake filter flow rates are important, 1" filters have varying pressure drops across them and can account for a significant loss of available static pressure in your system. Most companies do not list this figure on their product, or even provide it. - Return air is far too often neglected in duct design. I have a section of my house which requires %25 of the available air flow to cool but it has no return air path. So if the interior door to that area is closed, the air is instead forced outdoors and the loss is reclaimed on the other side of the interior door from (you guessed it) outdoors. So if a door to an area is barely open and then closes when your system kicks on, you probably don't have adequate return air. - Most newer homes use flexible duct. It is much cheaper and lighter than metal duct work but how it is installed makes a massive difference in how efficient your system is. Flexible ducts lengths which have slight compression (15%) or sag might double the loss for that section.

Overall the duct work design and installation is one of the most important aspects of your HVAC system which is the LEAST profitable (earnings/time) to your residential AC guy and therefore, is often neglected.

If you want to go deeper I recommend the ASHRAE Fundamentals handbook which covers heat load calculations, fenestration, systems, and duct design. You can pickup a older used copy for cheap. Avoid ACCA guides, they obscure all the underlying math and engineering behind a more simplistic design method based on total 'effective' length calculations which makes duct design difficult to understand intuitively.

Re: Duct Size vs. Airflow (2012)

#34
post #17

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I saw a Swedish "dream house" TV series where someone installed something like that, it cost a small fortune and I don't see the big benefit in it compared to "normal" mechanical ventilation, maybe with heat recovery.

The big benefit is that heat recovery units only recover ~80% of the heat. And if you want really good air quality in a room, you want 10 air changes per hour or so. So, that means you are losing 20% of the heat in the air every 6 minutes. If you're doing this in the UK with gas heating and outdoor air of 0C, indoor air of 20C, a 2500 square foot average house and 9 foot ceilings, then it costs a whopping £14/day to…

Intuitively it makes sense, but how do you get to the 90% savings? you still need to keep unused rooms ventilated and heated.

Re: Duct Size vs. Airflow (2012)

#35

I am in Houston and AC is a necessity. Most residential AC guys here are awful- they can make a killing in the hot seasons for simple calls to replace a $30 run capacitors on compressors (very common failure, often encouraged by power blips). Most of them do not fully understand duct design and many will pass on jobs to re-do ducts if they can since it is more profitable to focus on break-fix type calls. Because of t…

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