It looks like this guy plans to do a lot of jumping up and down on his desk.
Designing an Overkill workbench for home office
31–40 of 102 posts
Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office
#32Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office
#33The overall intent of the structure seems to be "make it sturdy", and yes, overkill :P If you're like me and your monitor(s) are wobbling while typing (=programming = working), a simper solution is to get monitor arms and attach them NOT to the table. So either screw them directly to the wall, or (what I'm doing) to a piece of wood clamped to the window ledge, or something like that. (That's more a hint for the general HN crowd).
Have fun with the woodworking :)
Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office
#34Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office
#35Earlier quoted context omitted.
Could you take off the hand crank and fit a battery-powered drill in its place? A drill is almost a necessity to own for me, but is not something I use all that often, so if its storage place is chucked onto my desk, that would work just fine.
Con - It would have to be a drill with a lot of torque. The handle on the crank is approx 6". That's adequate for manual, but less would take significant effort. A knob would be tough (and would take too long). Of the drills I own, I'm not sure any of them could do it. But I also do not own anything super-duper top of the line. Pro - Yes, the hand crank is removable. The socket the crank sits in is maybe a 3/8" hex (…
Physically I would be able to use a hand crank just fine, but if it's anything like reclining the seat in my Volkswagen (a 3" knob on the seatback hinge, rather than the typical lever), I'd hate to do it more than once a day. If it's not convenient to use, I would likely just leave it in the down position permanently out of laziness. I really like the idea of a motorized adjustable desk with one-touch memory buttons, but the cost and usual implementation is not to my liking.
Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office
#36Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office
#37Earlier quoted context omitted.
For anyone else reading this: The key thing to know in FreeCAD is that you almost always want to use the "Part Design" workbench. Then the workflow for creating a part starts with creating a "Body". The "Body" represents a single solid. The major features of your part are created with 2-dimensional sketches (either on the base planes, or on flat surfaces of the part, or on datum planes that you can define). The sketc…
That's the difference between freecad, sketch, and blender? I often see these names thrown around but not sure if each is used for a different purpose or if they're all the same but different people just prefer different software.
Blender has ability to do simple constraint, but it's not its primary uses. FreeCAD can also be used the Blender way but the software will warn about being under-constraint. Both FreeCAD and Blender can export to STL file (used by CAD softwares), but Blender's STL usually need to be scaled to real world measurements. In case of 3D printing, this STL file can be imported into a slicer software such as PrusaSlicer, which outputs GCode to control the printer (e.g. X, Y, Z coordinates, extrusion temperature, etc.)
Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office
#38Aluminum extrusion is pretty nice to work with, though in retrospect I probably wouldn't do it again for the workbench. I was able to source it from China via Alibaba, and even with $200 shipping the pricing is way less than you can get it in the US. It was so inexpensive that I ordered a bunch extra in case I want to build a custom 3D printer or CNC or something. The extra was nearly free.
You can cut aluminum on woodworking tools. I went slow, and the cuts I got looked nearly as good as the factory cuts. They are quite sturdy.
My idea was that I could use the extrusion channels for mounting accessories or clamping. For example, mounting rollers when using it as an in/out feed table. A jig for flattening some raw wood using a router. Channels to lock the 4 into a 4x8 assembly table, but split it apart to store along the back and sides of the garage.
Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office
#39Earlier quoted context omitted.
Actually, 2x2s are often or usually 1⅜" x 1⅜", which is rather annoying at times. I'm not sure if that has always been the case, but these days they're mostly only available in finger-joint spruce/fir/pine (presumably from offcuts of larger sizes), which might have something to do with it. (Unlike solid 2x2s, which tend to twist and warp so much as to be completely useless, finger-joint 2x2s are super stable, and alw…
Is there a sane explanation for why 2 = 1.375?
It's usually not a problem, except when it's used beside a 2x4 on the flat, in which case the 2x4 needs to be thinned down on the table saw.
Re: Designing an Overkill workbench for home office
#40Earlier quoted context omitted.
Actually, 2x2s are often or usually 1⅜" x 1⅜", which is rather annoying at times. I'm not sure if that has always been the case, but these days they're mostly only available in finger-joint spruce/fir/pine (presumably from offcuts of larger sizes), which might have something to do with it. (Unlike solid 2x2s, which tend to twist and warp so much as to be completely useless, finger-joint 2x2s are super stable, and alw…
Is there a sane explanation for why 2 = 1.375?