Earlier quoted context omitted.
The author makes the valid point that USB-A is too low power, and USB-C requires active cables. (Translation: expensive or dangerous)
If you want one port that can charge multiple devices of varying needs safely, you need smarter cables. Sounds like a reasonable tradeoff. Otherwise every single cable would have to be built to handle the highest possible power delivery rate (100W for USB-C).
So Where’s My Low Voltage DC Wall Socket?
31–40 of 115 posts
Re: So Where’s My Low Voltage DC Wall Socket?
#32Is "Digital Electricity" a real thing? Its billed as an alternative to AC or DC. This may be as good a place as any to ask this question, but I am a hotel developer, and we've had a few people reaching out to us trying to sell "digital electricity" that sends high voltage over cat5 (up to 2000w per the Belden materials) by essentially sending high voltage for very brief blips with the ability to switch off before any…
Looks like buzzword marketing bullshit to me. Apparently they're just sending pulsed DC power over Ethernet cables? Nothing else in that article is as new or exciting as they dressed it up to be. GFCI outlets are standard in modern houses, they claim to be safely transmitting "high voltage" but 120V is not, and the "digital" buzzword stinks of marketing. >It transfers high levels of power over non-power cable You can…
Re: So Where’s My Low Voltage DC Wall Socket?
#33I always thought running low-voltage DC through a house from a single supply was doomed due to voltage drop over the distances required....
That absolutely is. You could be better with 48 or even 24 volts, but then you are out of luck if you want to power a majority of devices which are 12v. So your only option is to go for USB-A wall socket which essentially is a wall-wart hidden in your wall. I do not see a good solution here.
Re: So Where’s My Low Voltage DC Wall Socket?
#34Re: So Where’s My Low Voltage DC Wall Socket?
#35Earlier quoted context omitted.
Oh wow, I would not want 2000w going through Ethernet. Both for the obvious electrical issues, and for the dangerous mixing of safe sockets and hot sockets. No idea how this would be more efficient. Bursting voltage will lead to higher loses versus a continuous voltage. Are they claiming efficiency thanks to a centralized AC->DC converter?
Cat5 doesn't imply RJ45, so that confusion could be easily averted if people with brains developed that stuff. 2000w constant power transmission on a Cat5 sounds dubious, though. I don't know at what the voltage such a cable gives in and shorts wires. It would have to be pretty high to get the current to something the wire crossection can handle.
Re: So Where’s My Low Voltage DC Wall Socket?
#36Re: So Where’s My Low Voltage DC Wall Socket?
#37> ...and incorporate a fuse to protect the appliance cable from fire. Those British BS1363, fused-mains-plug habits die hard. Lots of car barrel connectors have fuses inside. I'm not seeing much reasoning behind not using the car barrel connectors, aside from 'it was designed for cars, not as a general purpose connector'.
They break easily. Spring loaded bits (actual springs). No properly defined standard and they vary a lot. Come out easily depending on quality. Easy to contact center pole to side poles on insertion. No ability to add earth.
ANSI/SAE J563 and UL2089
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cigarette_lighter_receptacle shows the UL standard.
Re: So Where’s My Low Voltage DC Wall Socket?
#38Having both ethernet and low power from one socket would be perfect for IoT devices, save people from having to run Ethernet wiring themselves afterwards, and cut down on wireless spectrum use.
And your 'smart fridge' would just plug into both outlets and use a relay to cut 230V if the motor doesn't need to run.
Re: So Where’s My Low Voltage DC Wall Socket?
#39> ...and incorporate a fuse to protect the appliance cable from fire. Those British BS1363, fused-mains-plug habits die hard. Lots of car barrel connectors have fuses inside. I'm not seeing much reasoning behind not using the car barrel connectors, aside from 'it was designed for cars, not as a general purpose connector'.
They break easily. Spring loaded bits (actual springs). No properly defined standard and they vary a lot. Come out easily depending on quality. Easy to contact center pole to side poles on insertion. No ability to add earth.
Re: So Where’s My Low Voltage DC Wall Socket?
#40Interesting idea, but running an extra set of cables is a non-starter. The cost/benefit analysis would never make sense for existing structures, and newly built structures wouldn't do it unless it was almost certain to become a universal standard. This is a classic chicken-and-egg problem. You would also still need something similar to a wall-wart to step down the voltage to whatever your device actually uses (e.g. f…
Otherwise the voltage sag and resistance makes it cheaper and more efficient to do normal 120/240 voltage with device-specific converters. (For example, if I had to run 0-gauge cable from my breaker box throughout my house to support 12v, the cost of copper alone would be prohibitive.)
I honestly think standardizing on USB for devices that can use it is the best approach, given that we already have tiny AC->USB converters that don't block other plugs, and outlets with USB built-in are on the market. Furthermore, I wonder just how much we can shrink the typical wall-wart so it won't cover other plugs?
(I also think we're better off trying to do a global domestic 200 or 400 volt DC standard.)