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How I replaced deadly garage door torsion springs (2002)

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271–280 of 344 posts

Re: How I replaced deadly garage door torsion springs (2002)

#271
These doors are what we call a 'luxury problem': just more trouble because the premium door type was chosen. The single pane type door I know [0] are perhaps uglier, but they will last decades and do not need maintenance. They use normal springs.

[0] https://www.novoferm.nl/producten/garagedeuren/kanteldeuren/

Re: How I replaced deadly garage door torsion springs (2002)

#272

I had a teacher in high school who was blinded (I think only in one eye) trying to do this repair. You could not pay me enough money to do this repair. >This work is risky, but the risk is comparable to doing your own car repairs, or climbing on the roof of your house to clean your gutters. Notably, "unintentional fall" is the #1 cause of emergency department visits for adults [1], which is why I'd hire a professiona…

When my spring broke I called a someone local (maybe via Yelp), he came out within 30 minutes, replaced it in 20 and charged me $75. This was only a couple of years ago. Likewise with brake fluid changes. I can do it, but the risk/hassle just ain't worth it for the cost of a pro.

I never replace the brake fluid. I do flush each caliper when changing summer and winter tyres. This means a selected offspring presses the brake twice for every tyre and the caliper has fresh fluid in it.

The fluid only degrades in the caliper, no need to replace it entirely, and no need for a computer when you do it like I described it.

Re: How I replaced deadly garage door torsion springs (2002)

#273

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I’m not an expert in how springs break but wouldn’t an ejection of material require the spring breaking in at least 2 places that are close enough to not loop around the rod? I’m curious if anyone’s ever been hurt by one breaking (other than when actively working on it).

I’ve also never heard of a shrapnel-based injury. Only door falls or torsion bars breaking arms. I’ve actually replaced these in two houses, and yes, they’re dangerous, but honestly a little common sense and a straightforward (printed, with a buddy double-checking) list of steps you take with each quarter turn. It’s super important to have the right torsion bars. Don’t try to invent your own.

Realistically, any household maintenance task which needs a checklist and a second pair of eyes and arms to be done safely, is often going to be carried out by someone who feels that they can manage without either.

Re: How I replaced deadly garage door torsion springs (2002)

#274

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I’m baffled too. Changing oil in a car is dead simple and effectively zero risk with a proper pair of jack stands and a modicum of common sense and mechanical aptitude.

Not everyone is born with common sense. I sure wasn't. I'll find some way to do something that will leave the people with common sense scratching their heads, saying "but why wouldn't you just...".

There's a kind of meta-common sense which allows people to say "I don't have the ability to perform this task reliably".

Re: How I replaced deadly garage door torsion springs (2002)

#275
post #52

The author's intentionally verbose/non-linear storytelling technique, for example the two paragraph detour that describes his ladder and the ladder company's bankruptcy, and the 19 paragraph deep dive on garage door repair business marketing, makes it very hard for my brain to absorb the core information I was looking for (the procedure to replace the springs). I know I'm kind of missing the point/creative intent of…

At first I find it difficult to concentrate, but then I started really enjoying the article, and in way I think it is much better than current low-content-big-font websites. But yes, I was raised with this kind of content, so it seems that when I started enjoying was because I synced with a style that I already knew.

Re: How I replaced deadly garage door torsion springs (2002)

#276
post #115
post #67

Earlier quoted context omitted.

The door needs less counter weight as it goes up. In order for weights to work you either need several weights, with different weights bottoming out as the door rises. Or have the cable on a spiral pulley may work.

I don't think that's true of the mechanism I saw, which I believe was quite common, but it's 20 years since I looked at the mechanism. Ok I've found a video with one in: https://m.youtube.com/shorts/zLuJYlHBSkU The counter weight is always taking the full weight of the door, there's just a linkage which rotates the door on the way up. So, not the same as the spring ones, which follow a curved channel. This makes me l…

Thinking about it, the failsafe should be that if one side fails first, it gets stuck against the track. Although I don't think the one in the vid would, because the track points inward

Re: How I replaced deadly garage door torsion springs (2002)

#277

I did one on the "do it with the spring relaxed and the door up" plan. The door isn't that heavy, you can just lift it with your hand to help the opener lift it up, and done. But cramped!! Getting the lift cable nicely wound on the lift pulley, giving it a bit of preload (pull) and getting it attached to the bottom of the door, all with the raised door in the way, and doing both sides, let's just say my supply of swe…

This reminded me of so many childhood memories with my dad..

Re: How I replaced deadly garage door torsion springs (2002)

#278
post #210

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Still need to store the same amount of energy. A counter weight or piston also has more opportunities for uncontained failure. At least when a garage door spring fails it is still constrained by the shaft running through the middle. For what it's worth, I have also replaced my own garage door spring, and I really have no desire to do that again.

The risk isn’t just what the spring does but what happens to something caught in it. Springs can release energy a lot more quickly than a counterweight which can only accelerate a 9.8m/s/s, and therefore more risky to disable.

Plus a counterweight is a big fat weight hanging in midair, so it's pretty obvious what will happen if you let it fall (and where it will land), whereas with a spring it's much harder to tell whether it's under tension or relaxed, and what it might do when the tension is released...

Re: How I replaced deadly garage door torsion springs (2002)

#279
post #126

I had a teacher in high school who was blinded (I think only in one eye) trying to do this repair. You could not pay me enough money to do this repair. >This work is risky, but the risk is comparable to doing your own car repairs, or climbing on the roof of your house to clean your gutters. Notably, "unintentional fall" is the #1 cause of emergency department visits for adults [1], which is why I'd hire a professiona…

I don’t understand why it’s even considered safe to have one of these springs in one’s garage without a solid shield of some sort. While the energy involved is small on the scale of energy storage devices ( Which brings to mind some rather different designs. A rather small motor with a lot of mechanical advantage can easily open a close a garage door, and if a DC or low voltage AC motor is used, it could do so quite…

I recently accidentally drained the battery on my car while I was fixing unrelated stuff on the door (and therefore had the door open for 3 hours). I bought a "jumpstarter kit" which is basically a 12000mAh LiIon battery (3.7V) and some electronics. It's just a little bigger than a large mobile phone, but you clip it to the car battery and it's capable of providing 12V at 600A to turn the starter motor for up to 5 seconds. That's 7.2kW from a shockingly small device. I treated it with all due respect.

Re: How I replaced deadly garage door torsion springs (2002)

#280

Earlier quoted context omitted.

When my spring broke I called a someone local (maybe via Yelp), he came out within 30 minutes, replaced it in 20 and charged me $75. This was only a couple of years ago. Likewise with brake fluid changes. I can do it, but the risk/hassle just ain't worth it for the cost of a pro.

I never replace the brake fluid. I do flush each caliper when changing summer and winter tyres. This means a selected offspring presses the brake twice for every tyre and the caliper has fresh fluid in it. The fluid only degrades in the caliper, no need to replace it entirely, and no need for a computer when you do it like I described it.

It depends. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, which lowers its boiling point. You don't want it boiling from brake heat when you're really trying to stop. If you live somewhere humid then the whole reservoir can slowly absorb too much moisture and make the fluid unsafe.
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