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How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

anuschkarees.com

231–240 of 292 posts

Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

#231

If it has a zipper, and that zipper is not made by YKK, it is disposable garbage. This indicates the main priority in production was reducing cost. Sadly the other way around doesn’t always work, you can still get crap stitching and fabric on an article with YKK.

What about Lampo, Raccagni or RiRi? You even see high end brands using ancient talon zippers.

Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

#232

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If you don't have a sewing machine, and you're interested in repairing/tailoring your own clothes (and most importantly you have the time) it's well worth looking into historic sewing methods. Hand sewing can be just as strong if not stronger than machine sewing, it just takes the right techniques and the time and patience to sit there and do it. I've found the two most useful stitches I've picked up are the felling…

> Proper denim jeans are quite hard to mend though even if you know what you're doing, especially if you've worn through/blown out the inner thigh region. Wherever you've sewn will become a new point of stress on the denim and it is likely to just pull away the weave of the fabric from that point. This happens to every pair of mine, and is always the reason I am forced to retire them. Do you think it'll help if I rei…

Check out sachiko stitching! There are many guides online.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sashiko_stitching

Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

#233

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I don't really believe this anymore. Basically because of this theory my last pair of boots want the nicest I could find, high quality materials, hand made construction, almost $500, thinking it was an investment and I'd never have to go shoe shopping again. Well, I've had to repair them once already, and frankly with how cheap boots are at Walmart I don't think anymore I'll ever break even. Nice boots, though, and a…

Do you wear them daily? Even boots from Alden or Viberg should be rotated with at least one other pair.

This is an old wive's tale.

Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

#234
post #156

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Do you have any high-quality clothing stores that you recommend?

https://www.loow.com Wool garments, from a small company set up by a Danish ex Jaeger Corps who was aghast with the quality (or lack thereof) of clothes out there when he returned to civil life. I don't even remember how I got in touch with them, but I was looking for robust, functional yet stylish clothes I could both wear everyday and do skateboarding with. I just remember buying one for the heck of it early in the…

I just looked and loow is selling tshirts for $75. My lord.

Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

#235
post #31

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Do you have any high-quality clothing stores that you recommend?

What kind of clothes are you looking for? In general, it's hard to find stores where you can walk in and be assured that anything they carry is high quality. Even the high-end department stores such as Saks Fifth Ave. and Neiman Marcus are going to carry a lot of "fashion" brands that are expensive but not necessarily good quality. Some local boutiques (e.g., Louis Boston though it too has declined in recent years) m…

If you bike or have a bit of a tech-ware thing, Outlier: https://outlier.nyc/

Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

#236
post #215

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Do you wear them daily? Even boots from Alden or Viberg should be rotated with at least one other pair.

Huh. So you are saying if I have 2 pairs of identical shoes, A and B, if I wear A for T months, then B for T months, by alternating every day I should get >2T months out?

I have so many pairs of shoes now that I only wear some of them a few times a year. I only ever buy ones that I’ll have forever on deep discount (picked up a couple pair of Allen Edmonds for $100 each recently).

For the price of 2 Allen Edmonds bought retail, I could have 7 pairs of their timeless shoes, rotate them regularly, and never buy shoes again.

In reality, I have 4. 2 brown and 2 black, and that’s more than enough. My Dad has the same, and is still wearing his from the 80s on a daily basis.

Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

#237
post #15

In a previous life when I wore suits to work on a frequent basis, I got interested in this topic and spent way too much time learning about it. I now have a closet full of quality clothes that I wear much less frequently, but, for whatever it's worth, they'll last me the rest of my life. There's a lot of good info in this article, but there's also a lot more beyond it. For example, it mentions (accurately) that the f…

Fantastic information. To address your general point that there is some difficulty in assessing quality, it's not simply enough to spend lots of money, I'd recommend to everyone who is interested in stepping up their clothing quality game to find a reputable tailor. This is what I did, and I was lucky enough to do it while traveling in a part of the world with lower cost of living than the US. Because of this, I can order clothes that fit me perfectly and are made of extremely high quality materials for generally only a 20% markup over going to Macy's (for a dress shirt or slacks/trousers for instance), or a fully bespoke three-piece suit for about double the price of going to a Men's Wearhouse.

The most interesting thing I've found with wearing better quality clothing is that people notice, but don't realize this is what they're noticing. I get comments about my shirts from clients and when I go out in public random people will stop me to say something. Nobody says something about some technical factor of the clothing itself, but they will say things like "that's a nice shirt" or "wow, that shirt is really blue" (better quality cloth tends to have more consistent and lasting color as well).

This is one of those areas where quality isn't just expensive, it's more that quality only comes with being able to judge with expertise. Like most, I am unlikely to ever become an expert in textiles, so I found that having a reputable tailor do work for you was the best way to dress well without breaking the bank. My clothing lasts longer, looks better, and most importantly it feels better, all for a 20-30% markup over going to the mall.

Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

#238

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> Or rather, they're expensive upfront but often turn out to be more economical over the life of the garment. In either case, they will be more pleasant to wear than a lower quality alternative. Good ol' Vimes "Boots" Theory of Economic Injustice strikes again: > At the time of Men at Arms, Samuel Vimes earned thirty-eight dollars a month as a Captain of the Watch, plus allowances. A really good pair of leather boots…

I think there is a flaw in that story. I’ve a few pairs of high quality shoes and yes they do last well and look good but they still need maintenance. I send them back to the manufacturer for a resole when needed, they come back refurbished but it’s cost about 1/3 the price of buying a new pair. I also have a 30 year old Omega watch. Every five years that goes back to Omega, it’s away for about a month and costs £2-3…

You shouldn’t send the watch back for refinishing. Worn ones are more valuable.

Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

#239
post #234
post #156

Earlier quoted context omitted.

https://www.loow.com Wool garments, from a small company set up by a Danish ex Jaeger Corps who was aghast with the quality (or lack thereof) of clothes out there when he returned to civil life. I don't even remember how I got in touch with them, but I was looking for robust, functional yet stylish clothes I could both wear everyday and do skateboarding with. I just remember buying one for the heck of it early in the…

I just looked and loow is selling tshirts for $75. My lord.

If they're of fine wool, that's a perfectly reasonable price. I wear exclusively Icebreaker wool t-shirts as undershirts and they're $80 each, and have lasted me for years. One of the incredible things about higher quality textiles (Irish linen, fine wools) is that they tend to get softer and more comfortable with washing, and reach an equilibrium point quickly where they will stay for /years/. I'm wearing an Icebreaker T right now I bought in 2016 that's still in perfect condition and is more comfortable than any T-shirt you've ever put on, I guarantee.

I'm not familiar with Loow's products, but since they're wool and people are saying they are of high quality, I don't think $75 is unreasonable.

Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

#240
post #205

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Then on top of that there's market inefficacy. You can readily buy high quality shoes that are normally $200+ for under $100 if you don't mind them being boots and only available in black, coyote tan and sage green.

You can get iron rangers for around 180 every couple months. That’s probably the best deal around

My closet is filled with Iron Rangers, 1000 miles, AEs, and handmade Mocs. All purchased at steep discounts or second hand stores. All look better than the day I bought them years later.

My oldest pair of shoes are going on 11 years, and look even better than the rest after one re-sole.

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