What's the good DoH provider nowadays? I feel like cloud flare has some downsides in terms of centralization
Mullvad runs a privacy-oriented DoH service, which is free to use regardless of whether you use their VPN service. https://mullvad.net/en/help/dns-over-https-and-dns-over-tls
But, and its a BIG BUT ....
Mullvad don't have the geo-coverage that Quad9 has. They are predominantly Northern Europe with very limited server coverage outside (6x Northern Europe, 2xUSA, 1xSingapore)
Which is fine if you spend most of your time in those three places.
But if you are a road-warrior or you live elsewhere, then Quad9 is the better choice as they have global coverage (200 locations, 90 countries).
Avoid Cloudflare. They log traffic. Sure for a short-time period ($n days) but Quad9 still has the better privacy policy.
Quad9 is also Swiss, not US, so they can't be compelled to do anything under PATRIOT or whatever.