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The right way to sauce pasta (2016)

seriouseats.com

21–30 of 72 posts

Re: The right way to sauce pasta (2016)

#21
This is almost a religious matter among my Italian colleagues and I see a few blasphemies on this video already. The recipe I was taught on the hills of Tuscany 30 year ago is so perfect and simple I'll never prepare pasta in a different way.

* First slice garlic and put it a pot together with excellent quality olive oil

* Fry it until garlic becomes slightly yellow but nor brown, and in the meantime in a separate pot boil pasta

* Add tomato sauce to oil/garlic and boil them together

* When the pasta is ready, add it to the mix

It's absolutely delicious in spite of its simplicity.

Re: The right way to sauce pasta (2016)

#22
> Your other option is to purposely undercook the pasta by a few minutes before adding it to the sauce to let it finish.

This is super important. I don't know why the article presents it as optional. It is a vital step for success in my experience.

Re: The right way to sauce pasta (2016)

#23
As an italian who is told he's pretty good at cooking, some of this is on point but a few things sound "wrong" to me (I use quotes because there's really no objective way to do this literally right or wrong, I'm just comparing with my experience / what I perceive "we learn from grandmas"):

- Put the pasta into the pan with the sauce (which I guess is the main point of the article which starts off with "italian" restaurants putting sauce on top of the pasta in the plate): defintely yes, but...

- Add pasta water: it depends on which sauce you prepared and how you prepared it (and the type of pasta... not just shape, but fresh -vs- dry, and what it's made of). When one uses "pasta water", it's usually in the making of the sauce, not before putting the pasta in the sauce pan; sometimes cooking water is added to the sauce if it "shrinked" too much or the ingredients are not of amongst those which attach to the pasta well, but these are their own cases. All that "adding water and stirring" to get to the "perfect texture" might appear to make sense, but I'm pretty sure it will take too much time and it will mess your pasta consistency because it will get overcooked. Sure you can under-cook the pasta alone a bit to compensate, but what's the point in that? What I'm trying to say is that this trial and error thing might make sense for someone who does it for the first time, but after a while you figure out how the sauce ought to be in the first place, you put the past in, jump it (as in, move the pan to make the pasta "jump" in it so it doesn't attach to the pan) to the right consistency and everything gets where it needs to be pretty easy without all that fuss. At least this is what I do and what I see others that seem to really know how to cook (based on the results) do.

- The bit about using cooking water (that's another way we call the "pasta water") to adjust the consistency which turned bad because of the cheese thickening and liquids evaporating... well, unless we are talking about sauces which have significant cheese quantities in it (e.g., the "cheese and pepper", or "4 cheeses pasta") and have a different process on their own (as does the mentioned "carbonara", which I guarantee you'll screw up if you follow this process because you'll cook the egg too much), cheese usually goes on top of the pasta in the plate as a garnish. For some sauces (e.g., the "amatriciana"), you're even supposed to make the plates (with pasta already mixed with sauce) get a bit less hot before putting in the cheese, to avoid it melting too much. Putting cheese in the pan for a non-cheese based sauce and make it melt and then thick is sort of a cardinal sin (you can add all the "pasta water" you want, you'll never get it back to where you need it to be and it will mess up your dish)

- Add fat: what? Just, no. Olive oil is of very common use, but you don't add it "to the sauce" for texture, for most sauces you use it as the base for the sauce. Butter? Unless we are talking about a butter-based sauce (e.g., butter & sage), which are not that many or very common anyway in regions but the northern ones, nope. Not like that. Some add olive oil as a garnish, but again really depends on which sauce you are using, and it ain't that common

Re: The right way to sauce pasta (2016)

#24

This is almost a religious matter among my Italian colleagues and I see a few blasphemies on this video already. The recipe I was taught on the hills of Tuscany 30 year ago is so perfect and simple I'll never prepare pasta in a different way. * First slice garlic and put it a pot together with excellent quality olive oil * Fry it until garlic becomes slightly yellow but nor brown, and in the meantime in a separate po…

Some suggestions, take it or leave it: - delay the boiling of the pasta until after you added the tomato sauce to the pan. Tomatoes enjoy spending a bit more time on the stove, it makes a difference. - when adding the pasta to the mix, add a bit of the pasta-water (the water in which the pasta cooked). It acts as a very powerful emulsifier and will make the sauce stick better.

Re: The right way to sauce pasta (2016)

#26

> Your other option is to purposely undercook the pasta by a few minutes before adding it to the sauce to let it finish. This is super important. I don't know why the article presents it as optional. It is a vital step for success in my experience.

The degree to which you undercook is really about how scared you are of overcooking. The phrase I've heard used is that removing pasta from boiling water and putting it in the sauce is like "pasta bullet time". It slows the cooking enough that you now have lots of extra time to play with.

So it's not that you need to pull the pasta very early. You just can, for greater insurance. But pulling it just shy of al dente and then finishing it in the sauce over a few minutes will result in an al dente pasta. If your sauce needs lots of reducing, you're making a huge batch with an undersized burner, or anything else that would greatly prolong the cooking time, then yes, you'll need to pull the pasta earlier.

Re: The right way to sauce pasta (2016)

#27

It seems to be pasta day today on HN. So I heartily recommend Spaghetti all’Assassina - eschew the boiling step altogether and cook the pasta directly in the pan with the sauce. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spaghetti_all'assassina

I have made this and a non-stick pan is essential. Otherwise, you have a very annoying mess to clean.

The relevant Cook’s Illustrated/ATK recipe: https://www.americastestkitchen.com/cooksillustrated/article...

Re: The right way to sauce pasta (2016)

#28
This is awesome! A question for Italians in the audience though: is using butter as a fat something that’s commonly done? Being Portuguese and fond of Mediterranean cuisine, I always saw butter as a fat as being a more American thing but maybe that’s just the wrong perception and it’s totally fine if you use a dab of butter? PS: I do it myself, reason being that usually I’ll use extra virgin olive oil while preparing a sauce and I like to add butter to save on the oil, which can be quite expensive.

Re: The right way to sauce pasta (2016)

#30
post #23

As an italian who is told he's pretty good at cooking, some of this is on point but a few things sound "wrong" to me (I use quotes because there's really no objective way to do this literally right or wrong, I'm just comparing with my experience / what I perceive "we learn from grandmas"): - Put the pasta into the pan with the sauce (which I guess is the main point of the article which starts off with "italian" resta…

No offense intended, but all of your suggestions sound very stereotypically Italian, which is to say they put an enormous emphasis on the traditional ways that pasta and sauces are made in various places in Italy. There's nothing wrong with this, celebrate tradition and heritage all you want, but that's very different to what Kenji goes for in general and what Serious Eats goes for in general. Their goal is usually to provide techniques that are then used in recipes to achieve a desired outcome.

Whether that outcome is considered traditional or correct by anyone is not something that is considered. The techniques are a tool to achieve an outcome, and how much or little you use those tools is left to the cook, rather than being dictated by tradition or custom.

Pasta water contains starch, which helps to thicken sauces. If you want a thick and glossy sauce, it is one way to do it. End of story. It is a technique to achieve a desirable goal, nothing more. Whether anyone traditionally in Italy does this or not is immaterial.

Similarly, fats are flavorful. Adding flavorful fat to increase flavor in a sauce is desirable. Whether anyone traditionally does this is immaterial if people think it tastes good.

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