If you can’t sit down with someone, have a simple tech conversation with them and be able to tell if they know what they are doing… if you need to “give someone a test”… the problem is likely not the candidate.
We tried to have a zero coding interview. All behavioral and experiences questions followed up by "how would you design a system to do blah." Got a candidate that did well. Hired. Turned out they could talk the talk but not walk the walk. It was wildly unexpected. They simply couldn't code well. Too long to deliver, too poorly written, usually didn't work right. We insisted on _some_ coding in interviews going forward