Attacking My Landlord's Boiler
181–190 of 232 posts
Re: Attacking My Landlord's Boiler
#182Earlier quoted context omitted.
This is bad. Return water should be less 35 degree max. Actually 30 degree after the heat pump would be ideal: https://www.flow30.de/
[citation needed]
Re: Attacking My Landlord's Boiler
#183Let's be honest here: the FCC is gonna have to see a helluva lot of problems coming from your transmissions before they bother to send the black Suburbans filled with men in suits to knock on your door. You're going to get a series of letters that basically say "please don't do that" if anything.
Re: Attacking My Landlord's Boiler
#184Earlier quoted context omitted.
That’s an artifact of how heating is setup inside your home. Which is more efficient depends on where you’re dumping heat inside the home, levels of insulation, etc. Energy moves from hot to cold linearly with temperature differences. Hypothetically, if the pipe was the same temperatures as the inside of your home all the heat transferred would be outside the envelope. The hotter the pipe the better this ratio become…
Look at ISO 7730, a lot of comfort comes from non-cold walls and their radiant heat and small difference of wall temperatures to air temperatures. So having a thoroughly heated home allows you to lower your air temperature. Apart from that modern gas and even more heat pumps greatly gain efficiency by lowering flow water temperatures.
Therefore, 1st: Heating/cooling cycles from your HVAC are fighting these objects because they don't mix at the same speed as other objects (e.g., the air itself), so you end up with gradients across objects; people rate this feels unpleasant.
2nd: Mechanical equipment tends to operate more efficiently under constant load compared to constant start and stop cycles.
With #1 and #2, you can just heat constantly to increase both the uniformity of heating across objects and also the efficiency of the mechanical equipment's energy conversion.
There's a 3rd point, which, really, is just a sneaky way of reframing #1 and #2, and that is that you can also lower your setpoint and still have a subjectively superior comfort perception compared to a cyclic system. It drives home the point to say "constant 68F feels more comfortable than intermittent 72F." But it also invites the complaint about constant versus intermittent energy use, right? So I think just detailing #1 and #2 is better.
Re: Attacking My Landlord's Boiler
#185If OP ever shows up here, you probably could have just replaced the thermostat with one that is compatible with your boiler for less money and headache. The boiler market is fairly open to competition as evidenced by the fact that you could find a Honeywell signal in a random OSS project that also worked. Good luck with your future apartment customizations!
I think you missed where it was explained that the apartment is rented and therefore you cannot modify anything.
Also, if you read this far, are you German or something? you can just do things. which OP seems to know. And even if the landlord came and saw the apartment as long as the new thermostat isn’t neon orange, he isn’t going to notice and even if he somehow noticed you would just gaslight him and say no that’s how it’s always been and how the hell is he gonna escalate past that? And why would he if the new thermostat is more expensive and has better features?
Re: Attacking My Landlord's Boiler
#186Earlier quoted context omitted.
These home will most likely have a split air con, which will be the most efficient way of heating them. Also there is so much other room for improvement like drafty windows and doors etc.
In many warmer climates, the mini split air conditioners sold are cooling capability only. This is much cheaper to purchase for a 12,000 up to 24,000 btu/h unit than one which is also capable of heating the interior.
Re: Attacking My Landlord's Boiler
#187Earlier quoted context omitted.
Look at ISO 7730, a lot of comfort comes from non-cold walls and their radiant heat and small difference of wall temperatures to air temperatures. So having a thoroughly heated home allows you to lower your air temperature. Apart from that modern gas and even more heat pumps greatly gain efficiency by lowering flow water temperatures.
Having read that document, the ISO 7730 model itself depends on stable temperatures. However, I think the key is simply to understand thermal mass; people can be in hotter air, but feel cold due to cold surfaces (e.g., floors or furniture), which heat more slowly (or lose heat more slowly) than the air itself. Therefore, 1st: Heating/cooling cycles from your HVAC are fighting these objects because they don't mix at t…
Re: Attacking My Landlord's Boiler
#188Earlier quoted context omitted.
Having read that document, the ISO 7730 model itself depends on stable temperatures. However, I think the key is simply to understand thermal mass; people can be in hotter air, but feel cold due to cold surfaces (e.g., floors or furniture), which heat more slowly (or lose heat more slowly) than the air itself. Therefore, 1st: Heating/cooling cycles from your HVAC are fighting these objects because they don't mix at t…
https://www.krantz.de/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/layout-spec...
One thing I missed in summary is the concept of general radiant temperature gradient. It's not only about the gradient for conduction, but for radiation (and convection). So you could probably improve my summary by talking about any gradient between different objects in the environment and their EM, which feels unpleasant (but I think it had value in its reduction of the problem, too).
Re: Attacking My Landlord's Boiler
#189Earlier quoted context omitted.
Or attach an ESP32 to the boiler's control board that closes a dry contact circuit...?
The problem is, if your landlord ever comes around for inspection, or the bloody thing breaks down due to your installation attempt, you can be held liable up to and including getting evicted.
Re: Attacking My Landlord's Boiler
#190Earlier quoted context omitted.
In many warmer climates, the mini split air conditioners sold are cooling capability only. This is much cheaper to purchase for a 12,000 up to 24,000 btu/h unit than one which is also capable of heating the interior.
Not true, I can buy a Chinese 4kw Model for 650€ which can heat till -15degree. Doubt that you can save much.