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Logitech MX Master 3 vs. 2S Teardown

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171–180 of 196 posts

Re: Logitech MX Master 3 vs. 2S Teardown

#171
post #73

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Yep. The Windows 10 software is dire. If I RDP into my desktop machine the mouse lights up like a damn Christmas tree and won’t stop until I physically unplug it. It’s a cheap end G203 which I bought because it has a DPI switch on it so I can jump around easily when doing CAD stuff. I have considered cracking it open and desoldering the LEDs.

The G203 has onboard memory (which also includes RGB light state / startup effect and DPI steps), so once you have your settings right you can just store the profile in the mouse and uninstall the software. The latest version of the Logitech software (G HUB) doesn't make this feature obvious though, you have to set a local profile then click the gear icon > my gear > click the mouse image > switch on on-board memory…

Ahha! Thank you for this. I will try this today.

Re: Logitech MX Master 3 vs. 2S Teardown

#172
post #112

Is there any equivalent high quality preferred-choice-by-many keyboard?

i think filco is the gold standard in mechanical keyboards: https://www.diatec.co.jp/en/ they're built like a tank.

I own two Filco boards and they are extremely solid. Also easy to get an aftermarket controller board (and easy to fit) if you want to make it programmable.

Re: Logitech MX Master 3 vs. 2S Teardown

#173
post #146

Is there any equivalent high quality preferred-choice-by-many keyboard?

I really like my topre realforce rgb. Most solid keyboard I've ever owned. I added the optional cushions at the bottom of the stroke.

I use a Topre R2 that I imported from Japan, and I love it. The feel of typing on it is quite unique, and has replaced all my other boards.

Re: Logitech MX Master 3 vs. 2S Teardown

#174

Is there any equivalent high quality preferred-choice-by-many keyboard?

Personally I prefer a 60% keyboard and work on a HHKB Professional 2.

Different strokes for different folks - try out different form factors and different switch types, there's a lot to see and try.

Re: Logitech MX Master 3 vs. 2S Teardown

#175
post #76

Downside of such complicated mice with fancy circuit boards is that you can have issues like my s2 had, where the thumb button got stuck. This somehow caused a software lock, rendering the rest of the mouse unoperational; a nice 90$ paperweight. I don't mistreat my electronics either, it was not dropped or anything like that. This sort of stuff should not happen on such an expensive mouse. Coincidentally it happened…

I had the same thing happen recently, and came across this Youtube video detailing a fix: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFaLyoSQQo0 . Essentially, you open up the mouse and loosen the internal screws on the thumb button a little bit, which moves the board away from the rubber over the button and relieves whatever pressure is keeping it pressed. You need a screwdriver with a T5 Torx bit to open up some of the screws…

I read the parent's comment, messed with the thumb button, and had the exact same thing happen.

Now I read your comment, slid a screwdriver under the thumb rubber (didn't bother opening the mouse) and that unfucked it.

Man…

Re: Logitech MX Master 3 vs. 2S Teardown

#176
post #2

I've been using the 2S for a while and just bought the MX 3 because I needed an extra mouse. They managed to improve an already near-perfect mouse. I just love the 3. Probably not worth ditching your 2S for, but nonetheless, a superb upgrade. I always felt the thumb buttons were awkward on the 2S and that has been rectified. The magnetic wheel is also really nice to use.

Where I from, the Master 3 is twice the price of the Master 2S. Would you say that it is worth it to still buy the 2S?

If money is an issue, I'd definitely get the 2S over the 3.

Re: Logitech MX Master 3 vs. 2S Teardown

#178
post #6

Earlier quoted context omitted.

The power density on WiFi is minuscule. FCC Regulations mean you can transmit at a max of 300mW only, and the power you receive is affected by the Inverse Square Law on top of that, so total delivered power to your device is fractions of a mW unless your wireless router is right next to the router. Even then the entire process tends to be rather inefficient on top of that so the math probably doesn't work out. The Qi…

> FCC Regulations mean you can transmit at a max of 300mW only Is that new? When I was originally playing with dd-wrt I was under the impression that 100 was the limit, discovered my AP was defaulting to something like 70mW, and would allow you to go higher.

You might be right. My memory is from several years ago when I was working with some possibly dubious long range outdoor radios.

Re: Logitech MX Master 3 vs. 2S Teardown

#179
post #3

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Yes, the thumb buttons seem much better. USB-C is an upgrade. Only thing that is missing is a wireless charging. Some competitors use Qi charging or a special mousepad, so there's never a need to plug it in. In 2010, Logitech released a solar-powered keyboard called the K750. Now that batteries and PV cells are improving, and low energy wireless technology is improving, I bet this would be less terrible. Also in 2010…

I've been waiting for Qi charging as well! I love my original MX Master, but it really annoys me when I have to deal with that charging cable. USB-C might be a marginal improvement, but I' love to be able to just put the mouse on my Qi pad when I leave the office...

One thing you could do is buy a magnetic break-away USB cable like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Ant-i-Product-Compatible-Micr...

I have those on my wireless mice/keyboards, and game controllers.

Re: Logitech MX Master 3 vs. 2S Teardown

#180
post #108

Earlier quoted context omitted.

It's placed over the antenna for the Bluetooth LE chip. I'm assuming it's related to antenna tuning/calibration.

I'll go with occam's razor and say it was simply not removed from the development board to the full production board. It's probably related to tuning but on a production board? Normally if you need it as part of your production process it would just be part of the tuning tool itself. But honestly I cannot see how it would be used in production since the antenna length is determined by that point.

Removing the silk also de-tunes the antenna. It's cheaper to leave it there than to remove it and re-tune.
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