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If you want to pull another cable: - secure a string to the old cable - pull the cable out the other end, pulling the string through - secure the string to the new cable - pull the string out the other end, pulling the new cable into position
> [...] a string [...] Does someone have a recommendation for a specific material the string should be made of?
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Military grade afaict just implies the military ‘could’ use it, by that definition almost any company sells military grade products or services, except companies who explicitly would not sell to the military.
the military often writes a spec and then refuses to buy anything that doesn't meet it. Most soldiers are not going to walmart to get supplies - even f walmart sells that type of thing.
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There is no legal requirement for it to refer to MIL-SPEC. More often than not it is just pure marketing without any actual spec tied to it
Yeah if you see something labelling itself "MIL-SPEC", that's grade A snake oil bullshit. That said military spec stuff is actually generally a good sign that something is of higher quality than random off the shelf garbage but only if you know there's a specific spec you want it to work with. And most of the time you aren't even necessarily looking for a MIL-STD (standard) but rather a MIL-PRF (performance rating/sp…
One random guess other than gases of various sorts: If you have the lights on a lot, it's possible you have lighting that is not properly uv filtered somehow.
(It theoretically could be lots of heat/humidity vs certain types of cable jackets, but that would be obviously noticeable most of the time)
The fiber and even the armor itself looks fine in your pictures and I bet the error rate is zero. Outside of bending, i can't see how you could damage the fiber when the armor is in perfect shape. That armor will unravel if you really damaged it. The speed thing is not how fiber works. It's hard to get marginal link enough to generate retries that degrade your speed by 10%. Most of the time either you have full speed link, no link, or so many errors speed is zero. The optics almost always have rx/TX signal strength DDM you can look at
Also did you say you direct buried it in cement? If so it's not rated for that. Direct burial and concrete tight/safe are not the same thing at all, not the least of reasons being concrete is highly alkaline (ph12-13) when poured
If you buy a consumer product labeled "military grade" you are buying snake oil. And not just snake oil, incredibly over priced snake oil.
Anyone who thinks the triggers listed as MIL-SPEC from, say, Geissele here:
https://geissele.com/triggers.html
aren't totally fine is out of his mind. They're amazing triggers, widely used and loved.
And they don't say which specs its passing (at least not on the main page): it's just MIL-SPEC.
As a sidenote my very best laptop passes https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MIL-STD-810 but most people will just say it's "military grade" or "MIL-SPEC".
Guess what? Its screen never broke overnight like the one of my MacBook M1 Air did (the infamous "bendgate").
I can bend my LG Gram's screen and it's keeps working fine. I can let it drop. Friend who sold it to me stepped on it when he woke up once.
There's a very big difference between saying: "There are shady vendors" and saying "Military specs do not exists and it's impossible for consumers to buy items passing military specifications".
Yes, there are dishonest vendors.
Yes, military specs do exist.
And, yes, it's possible for consumers to buy products passing (and even surpassing) actual military specs.
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If you want to pull another cable: - secure a string to the old cable - pull the cable out the other end, pulling the string through - secure the string to the new cable - pull the string out the other end, pulling the new cable into position
Pull a string alongside the new cable, too, and tie it off on both ends. Always leave a pull string in the conduit.
At this point, multiple. Just in case.
As an alternative if you are networking a single location and you don't mind seeing some finishing profiles on the walls (or want something easy in a pre-existing situation) you can also drill somewhere along the wall and feed the cables directly down to the floor or up the ceiling and cover them up.
But always, ALWAYS, make them easily accessible and easily removable.
Got plenty of experience to say no cable will survive a lifetime, and if you experience a problem without easy access you are fucked.
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> [...] a string [...] Does someone have a recommendation for a specific material the string should be made of?
They also make bottles of cable pulling lubricant for this purpose.
FYI "military grade" is code for "cheapest bidder."