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Megadesk

tindie.com

131–140 of 141 posts

Re: Megadesk

#131

Earlier quoted context omitted.

When you automate slow moving machineries and it picks up your finger, that kind of situations may present quite inconvenient results, so,

These desks are designed to stop if the force increases an unexpected Amount (say, getting caught on something). Also, the moving parts are all hidden - so long as you are far enough away from (say) another desk tou should be okay.

But you can still accidentally yank a phone or laptop off the desk without tripping the sensor if the power cable is too short.

The permanent cable management will obviously be fine, but "I just need to charge my phone from that outlet in the corner for a few hours, I'll definitely remember to unplug it before I raise the desk" is the kind of thinking that inevitably leads to shattered screens.

Re: Megadesk

#132

If anyone has concerns about the reliability/safety of electric desks and are also put off by crank desks, I can recommend pneumatic standing desks. They can transition between standing and seated very quickly, faster than either crank and motor. This looks like what we have in our office: https://www.standupdeskstore.com/pneumatic-adjustable-height...

I don't mind electric desks but I prefer crank operated ones, like the Adler Desk which totally slays, because there is no motor to burn out and need replacement: https://work.ohiodesign.com/adler-desk.html

Re: Megadesk

#133
Am I the only one dismayed by the interface as described? User interface a few decades old were far simpler and IMO more functional -- dedicated buttons for everything (cheaper than micro controllers back then).

I'd suggest UP DOWN M1 M2 M3 with the only non-trivial function being a long-press on an M button to store position. Simple!

Re: Megadesk

#134

Am I the only one dismayed by the interface as described? User interface a few decades old were far simpler and IMO more functional -- dedicated buttons for everything (cheaper than micro controllers back then). I'd suggest UP DOWN M1 M2 M3 with the only non-trivial function being a long-press on an M button to store position. Simple!

The idea is that this is a board retrofit into the existing housing / control setup. The BEKANT only has two buttons available, so this controller has two buttons to play with.

Of course, you could build a new controller and housing with whatever input buttons you want, but the cost then would go up considerably.

Re: Megadesk

#135

Am I the only one dismayed by the interface as described? User interface a few decades old were far simpler and IMO more functional -- dedicated buttons for everything (cheaper than micro controllers back then). I'd suggest UP DOWN M1 M2 M3 with the only non-trivial function being a long-press on an M button to store position. Simple!

The idea is that this is a board retrofit into the existing housing / control setup. The BEKANT only has two buttons available, so this controller has two buttons to play with. Of course, you could build a new controller and housing with whatever input buttons you want, but the cost then would go up considerably.

I initially set out to do a complete design as you described, but homemade housing/buttons will look... homemade. :)

Re: Megadesk

#136
post #29

Ha, I just built something like this with a Raspberry Pi for fun. My standing desk (a Conset) only had a up/down button so I used a RPi + relay hat + distance sensor + screen/buttons to allow height presets as well as control via Homebridge: https://imgur.com/a/9YF7FuP Not exactly cost effective, but it was a fun way to learn about relays.

somehow it looks useless and over the top and before you downvote:

I really like this with the hal sensors and that display. Nicely done :-)

Re: Megadesk

#137

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I happen to have both a Jarvis desk I bought 3 years ago, and just recently bought an UpLift v2 with the commercial crossbar package as an additional desk in my office. Both sit next to each other, making comparison easy. I was content with my Jarvis until I received the Uplift. Stability comparisons are night and day: Uplift (with crossbar) has vastly superior stability at standing heights. The Jarvis has noticeable…

Thank you for the info! Do you think it's worth the extra money for the 4-legged Uplift? Would it be more stable than a C-frame or T-frame? Did you also get Uplift's CPU holder? I'm unsure of the ability of it to fit over the crossbar of the commercial frames.

I went with the commercial C-frame with a 60” desk and I think the 4 legged version would be overkill. I have a 27” iMac sitting on a 4U rack monitor stand filled with devices and probably around 30 pounds of music equipment on top of the desk and it feels consistently stable with no strain when changing heights. Unless you are putting seriously heavy stuff on top I don’t think you need 4 legs.

No CPU holder, but I got the retractable keyboard tray. At the lowest height (under 24”), it collides with the crossbar when fully pushed back. This never impacts me because it is well below the lowest height setting I use for sitting and can’t imagine it being an issue for anyone else. If the CPU holder collides with the crossbar, though, it’d probably happen at an unacceptable height. I would check the dimensions of everything before purchase.

For my purposes, I have an an additional desktop machine I simply keep on the floor by the desk.

Re: Megadesk

#138
Strange question, for anyone that has the Bekant non-motorized desk, is the desk wobbly?

I noticed that the motorized version is significantly studier, where the standard version was quite wobbly.

Re: Megadesk

#139

Earlier quoted context omitted.

a) You can design and make it; I can't. I have basic electronics knowledge and that is definitely more advanced than anything I'd get done in a reasonable time. b) Speaking of reasonable time, it'd probably take even you more than $50 in time, material and parts (mostly time) to make this. This doesn't look like the kind of PCB that you'd hand-solder either, bringing us to... c) Making 1000 of something tends to be c…

Part of the costs is that I do assemble these by hand! My right arm is the pick and place machine. I try to do batches of 25 at once, as any more and I want to smash something. I have an SMT stencil for all the SMT parts, and then put them in the oven. The pin header is through-hole (will be stronger then SMT header) so it's done by hand. Then going over everything with a loupe to look for solder paste that hasn't fl…

Are these too small amounts to order fully finished products from somewhere with a pick-n-place machine, or is there another reason why that isn't something you're doing?

Re: Megadesk

#140

For those worrying about motorised desks and their safety, I just want to recommend Ikea’s manual desk. It works fine. I don’t know why I’d want a motor in it.

I went to the store to have a look at that desk. They had three on the floor including one that was assembled three days ago according to the staff there. They were all so wobbly as to be unusable. Put some pressure on where the monitors or where you’re hands would be and everything shook. Knowing how robust ikea is, I hard passed and got the stationary bekant. It still comes with legs that are quite adjustable (but…

I use the manual desk at standing height most of the time. At this height, if I really bash on the keys of my mechanical keyboard then I can see a tiny movement in the monitor (which is on an arm clamped to the rear edge of the desk). Otherwise nothing. I don’t normally bash the keys like I’m trying to break them, so yes, while it’s possible to make it move artificially, in real life I don’t see any movement.
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