I don't know Django specifically but I'm always floored by how people talk about ORMs. They're only a leaky abstraction if you believe their point is to shield terrified junior devs of the inner workings of the scary relational database. That's an awful way to use ORMs, and the source of most of the flak they get. To be fair, some are designed that way, or at least strongly push you toward it.
Stop thinking of ORMs as trying to hide the details of SQL and you'll stop hating them. Instead think of them as a way to compose SQL dynamically, with the full power of your language. SQL is an awful language to write application logic in, because it has horrible support for abstraction, composition, encapsulation, dependency injection, etc. The ORM gives you a way to produce SQL in an environment that actually supports basic software engineering principles. Scattering ORM logic everywhere in the codebase is the point: putting all your SQL in one data access layer is like putting all your arithmetic in one calculation layer. Why would you ever do that? What's wrong with seeing a plus sign in more than one file? What's wrong with seeing language-encoded relational logic in more than one file?
I can guarantee you the popularity is not "aesthetic". And convenience is a real thing that actually does reduce costs. People complain about ORMs, but have you seen the absolute horse-shit-level code that people jam into SQL functions and procedures to do the utterly most basic things? The standard for what ends up in SQL Stored procedures is the most unmaintainable garbage in the entire software engineering ecosystem.